Wiring, Stereo & Electronics Audio Components | Radars | Alarms - and things that spark when they shouldn't

Another "My Security Light is ON" issue & Programing a Alarm Fob

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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 06:18 AM
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Default Another "My Security Light is ON" issue & Programing a Alarm Fob

Okay... I just bought this 01 WS6 and it didn't come with an alarm fob. I have one from my 98 Trans Am so I took it to a car audio shop to have them reprogram it for $15, but they said that there's an issue with my security system and that they program it by the radio and since the the alarm runs through it and that since since the Security Light is on that there's something wrong and that the LCD on the radio is not displaying because of that and so they can't program the fob.

YEAH... it was that mixed up! I was like

So they told me to get the Security Light issue fixed, then come back so they can program my fob through the radio.

Does any of this make sense?

Now I did search for Security Light, but it seems that everyone with this issue, also has the issue with their car not starting... I don't have that problem... my car starts up every time.

Is there a way to scan to see why the Security Light is coming on?


Thanks guys!
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 11:04 AM
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One piece of advice about that car audio shop... stay far, far away from them because they don't have a clue. The alarm system has nothing to do with programming the key fob because the fob is part of the keyless entry system. The radio also has absolutely nothing to do with the alarm system. In fact, the security light in the instrument cluster also has nothing to do with the alarm system. And the display on the radio certainly has nothing to do with the alarm system. Actually, your car may not even have the optional factory alarm system (if it does, the indicator is the red LED on top of the dash next to the defroster vent).

The security light in the instrument cluster is for the VATS system that checks the resistor pellet in the ignition key to make sure it matches the original key. If the light is flashing, it means the system can't detect a pellet at all (damaged key or someone trying to hot wire the car). If the light is on solidly, it means the system detects a key pellet but not the correct resistance. If the system detects the wrong pellet before the car is started, it will prevent the car from starting by disabling the starter relay and turning off the fuel feed. On the other hand, if it detects the wrong resistance while the car is already running, it will turn on the light but assume there is a fault in the system and still allow the car to be restarted. The most common cause is simply dirt and grime on the key pellet contacts or the contacts inside the ignition cylinder. A good cleaning (with electrical contact cleaner and a pipe cleaner) will often solve the problem.

Programming the key fob is a simple matter you can do at home with the instructions in the owner's manual:
Matching Transmitter(s) To Your Vehicle
Each remote keyless entry transmitter is coded to prevent another transmitter from unlocking your vehicle. If a transmitter is lost or stolen, a replacement can be purchased through your dealer. Remember to bring any
remaining transmitters with you when you go to your dealer. When the dealer matches the replacement transmitter to your vehicle, any remaining transmitters must also be matched. Once your dealer has coded the
new transmitter, the lost transmitter will not unlock your vehicle. Each vehicle can have only four transmitters matched to it.

Have each transmitter you intend to match ready for the next steps. To match transmitters to your vehicle, do the following:
1. Turn the ignition key to RUN, then to OFF. This will disarm the content theft-deterrent/alarm system (if equipped).
2. Remove the RADIO fuse. This fuse is located in the main fuse block which is located on the left side of your instrument panel. The radio fuse is on the lower right-hand corner of your instrument panel. See “Fuses and Circuit Breakers” in the Index.
3. Turn the ignition key from OFF to RUN three times quickly (within five seconds). The vehicle will respond by locking the doors, unlocking the driver’s door and releasing the hatch. Your transmitter is now ready to match the vehicle. Leave the ignition in RUN.
4. Press and hold the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the first transmitter for 15 seconds. The vehicle will respond as in Step 3.
5. Repeat Step 4 for the remaining transmitters.
6. When you have finished matching all of your transmitters, replace the RADIO fuse.
7. Check that all transmitters work by pressing the buttons. If the transmitters don’t work, or if you’d rather not match the transmitters yourself, see your dealer.
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
One piece of advice about that car audio shop... stay far, far away from them because they don't have a clue. The alarm system has nothing to do with programming the key fob because the fob is part of the keyless entry system. The radio also has absolutely nothing to do with the alarm system. In fact, the security light in the instrument cluster also has nothing to do with the alarm system. And the display on the radio certainly has nothing to do with the alarm system. Actually, your car may not even have the optional factory alarm system (if it does, the indicator is the red LED on top of the dash next to the defroster vent).

The security light in the instrument cluster is for the VATS system that checks the resistor pellet in the ignition key to make sure it matches the original key. If the light is flashing, it means the system can't detect a pellet at all (damaged key or someone trying to hot wire the car). If the light is on solidly, it means the system detects a key pellet but not the correct resistance. If the system detects the wrong pellet before the car is started, it will prevent the car from starting by disabling the starter relay and turning off the fuel feed. On the other hand, if it detects the wrong resistance while the car is already running, it will turn on the light but assume there is a fault in the system and still allow the car to be restarted. The most common cause is simply dirt and grime on the key pellet contacts or the contacts inside the ignition cylinder. A good cleaning (with electrical contact cleaner and a pipe cleaner) will often solve the problem.

Programming the key fob is a simple matter you can do at home with the instructions in the owner's manual:

WOW! That guy was completely talking out of his ***! Since you're here in JAX, you might know of the shop I took it to, Daddy-O's (spelling), off Atlantic Blvd. Well it don't look like I'll be going there anymore!

Yeah I have the red LCD light on my upper dash so it seems that I do have the factory alarm.

The Security Light is static and comes on and stays on every time I start the car. So if i am understanding correctly, my issue is the latter; it was running but detected the wrong resistance? Does that mean someone used the wrong key at some point? How do I fix it? I'm sick at looking at the light, lol...

I need to get a BATT for the FOB, then I'll give the programming a go

Thanks Bro!
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 01:33 PM
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Yes, if the security light comes on and stays on every time you start the car (but the car starts fine) then the BCM has determined there is a fault in the VATS system and is notifying you to get it repaired. It probably won't cause a problem until you disconnect the battery. Then when you reconnect the battery and try to start the car, the system will see it as a new problem and prevent starting the car.

You can get a spray can of electronic contact cleaner (also called electrical switch cleaner) from Radio Shack for a couple of bucks. Clean the key pellet contacts on both sides with a pencil eraser followed by rubbing alcohol. Spray the contact cleaner into the ignition cylinder and use a pipe cleaner to scrub off any residual grime through the key slot. That will often take care of the problem although it can sometimes take up to 15-20 minutes of driving before the light goes off.
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 12:11 AM
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Well the BATT has been pulled and replaced, yet the car still starts with no issues.

I will try cleaning the key and cylinder , thanks man!
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 09:53 AM
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My Security light has been on solid the past two years, I just got used to it but would really love to get rid of it. I'll try cleaning the ignition cylinder when I have time. Do I need to remove anything to clean properly?
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by BoricuaHec01
Do I need to remove anything to clean properly?
Just the key.

No, you should be able to spray the cleaner in through the key slot and then insert a pipe cleaner to scrub the contacts.

There are other possible causes besides grime such as worn contacts on the key pellet or worn contacts inside the ignition cylinder but cleaning will often solve the problem and it doesn't involve replacing any parts or wiring in a VATS bypass.
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
Just the key.

No, you should be able to spray the cleaner in through the key slot and then insert a pipe cleaner to scrub the contacts.

There are other possible causes besides grime such as worn contacts on the key pellet or worn contacts inside the ignition cylinder but cleaning will often solve the problem and it doesn't involve replacing any parts or wiring in a VATS bypass.
Ok cool, ya I doubt it's the key itself cause I have another spare and the light still stays on so probably something in the ignition cylinder. I'll give it a good scrubbing soon.
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