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I was wondering if anyone had a good write up or pointers for wiring a wide band air fuel, fuel pressure, and Trans temp gauge. From my searches it appears there's a pressure port on the driver side Trans to tie into, air fuel is self explanatory, and I may need an adapter to hook into my fuel rail (anyone know where to find the exact part?) More than anything im looking more for where to tie it in to a 12v ignition circuit, where to run the wiring (without turning it into a huge project), and general recommendations? It is a 2002 Trans am, if anyone could give me an idea of where to start I'd greatly appreciate it.
Just wire the 12v to a key on source for each gauge so they turn on when the car key is on. It's a pretty straightforward install. Take a test light and find which fuses are key on, use an add-a-fuse and you should be good to go
Just wire the 12v to a key on source for each gauge so they turn on when the car key is on. It's a pretty straightforward install. Take a test light and find which fuses are key on, use an add-a-fuse and you should be good to go
OK great. Can you find the add a fuse at any part store? Also do you run a lot of wiring through the driver side firewall or somewhere easier? Thanks for the reply
OK great. Can you find the add a fuse at any part store? Also do you run a lot of wiring through the driver side firewall or somewhere easier? Thanks for the reply
Yeah I believe AutoZone carries them and I'm sure other stores do too. I (believe) that I got the 12v from the fuse panel on the side of the dash, and ran just the wires to whatever sensor my gauge has. In my case I have a wideband that goes through the floor and a trans temp gauge too.
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
There are three ports in the fuse box that are specifically designed by GM for use with aftermarket circuits. They have different types of power and are labeled BATT (constant battery power), IGN (ignition switched power) and ACCY (ignition switched power that stays on until a door is opened, like the radio). They are single leg connections so all you need is a crimp-on quick disconnect connector (the flat style) rather than using a tap-a-fuse or doing something foolish like just stuffing the wire under a fuse.
Thanks for the diagram, sounds like it may be best on the ignition? I will look for the crimp on connector at the part store. Sounds like that will work the best.
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Yes, for gauges you would want to use the IGN port because you don't need the gauges powered when the ignition isn't on.
The connector you're looking for is very common (you can find them at any auto parts store and even Walmart). They come in packs of ten or more for just a couple of bucks:
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Originally Posted by LT1BADZ
What about if you want to run several gauges? I think I'll end up with 5 or 6. How do you run all of them off that one fuse port?
It depends on how much current they will draw. Each of those ports is a 15A circuit so that is the maximum load you can draw. Gauges seldom draw much current so you should be fine but it's always best to check the documentation before installing to ensure you don't overload the circuit.
So, assuming that's not a problem then you should get yourself a small distribution block. There are many varieties available but one with individual fuses would be the safest. Something like this would be good:
(obviously you would use smaller fuses)
This allows you to run a single wire from the IGN port of the fuse panel to the input of the fuse/distribution block and then separately fused output to your gauges. Just be sure that the total of your fuses is 15 amps or less (e.g. three 5A circuits or four 3A circuits).
Remember that fuses don't protect the attached accessories (the gauges in your case). They protect the connecting wires from overheating and causing a fire. So always make sure you use the smallest possible fuse that will still handle the normal current draw and that you use wire that is large enough to carry somewhat more current than the fuse rating without overheating.
I like the part you listed in the picture. That may give more flexibility than trying to run 3 gauges to the IGN.. where did you find that part at? Great info! Glad this thread is going again, I still need to put my gauges in, so I may look for this before I start.
That's awesome.. Thanks for the info, i think that will make it easier to make it a clean install
I should have plenty of info to make my install easier.. now I just need to figure out the correct adapter to tie into my fuel rail and I'll be all set