Fuel pump kill switch
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2014
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Fuel pump kill switch I’ve searched many threads, Googled, etc. I’m trying to find a step by step “how to” to wire in a kill switch in line with the fuel pump. Does this wire run under the dash where I have easier access to splice in a switch? I’m somewhat of a wiring newb which is why I’m looking for a step by step reference. Thanks again and sorry for the dumb question that I can’t seem to find an answer to (at least to fit my abilities).
When I bought mine.... The lot had a neat way of deterring car thieves.... Took a spare fuel pump relay and cut one of the leads off. Plugged it in and boom..... No start for the thief. Just a thought
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 157
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Sorry to revive this thread, but I'm stil trying to figure this out. I'm not a total newb but wiring is not my thing. I've spent a lot of time searching threads, schematics, etc trying to learn how to do this and am finding a lot of conflicting info.
I have a 2000 TA and would like to wire in a switch to kill the fuel pump to deter theft. Do I have to cut a wire going into the PCM under the hood and run a wire loop through the firewall to a switch? Or is there a way to wire it all inside the car from behind the kickpanel?
Sorry to be thick headed, I just don't want to guess and mess this up. Does anyone have a link or can provide a step by step write up of how to wire this switch in?
Lots of thanks!
I have a 2000 TA and would like to wire in a switch to kill the fuel pump to deter theft. Do I have to cut a wire going into the PCM under the hood and run a wire loop through the firewall to a switch? Or is there a way to wire it all inside the car from behind the kickpanel?
Sorry to be thick headed, I just don't want to guess and mess this up. Does anyone have a link or can provide a step by step write up of how to wire this switch in?
Lots of thanks!
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 345
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The factory VATS (Vehicle Anti Theft System) already has fuel disable built in. If an attempt to start the car is made without the correct ignition key chip, VATS disables both the starter relay and the fuel enable signal to the PCM.
Unfortunately, VATS is not a sophisticated system and it's been around for a long time. It's still effective at deterring ******-and-grab thieves and joyriders but it certainly won't stop a pro. With a 15 year old car, that may be all that's necessary - I don't know of much demand for stolen 4th generation f-bodies these days.
However, if you want to add your own fuel kill switch, using the existing VATS wiring is probably the easiest way to go. All you have to do is cut the fuel enable signal wire and connect each end to the terminals of a SPST (single pole single throw) standard on/off switch. With the switch on, VATS will work as normal. With the switch off, the PCM won't enable the fuel pump regardless of what VATS does.
The wire you need is the dark blue one in position D8 of the blue 32-pin connector on the body control module. D8 is almost dead center of the bottom row of the connector (that's the row that is opposite the push-to-release tab on the connector). It has a light blue wire next to it on one side and a white/black wire on the other side. The BCM is a black box about the size of a paperback mounted under the passenger side of the dash behind the glove box.
Unfortunately, VATS is not a sophisticated system and it's been around for a long time. It's still effective at deterring ******-and-grab thieves and joyriders but it certainly won't stop a pro. With a 15 year old car, that may be all that's necessary - I don't know of much demand for stolen 4th generation f-bodies these days.
However, if you want to add your own fuel kill switch, using the existing VATS wiring is probably the easiest way to go. All you have to do is cut the fuel enable signal wire and connect each end to the terminals of a SPST (single pole single throw) standard on/off switch. With the switch on, VATS will work as normal. With the switch off, the PCM won't enable the fuel pump regardless of what VATS does.
The wire you need is the dark blue one in position D8 of the blue 32-pin connector on the body control module. D8 is almost dead center of the bottom row of the connector (that's the row that is opposite the push-to-release tab on the connector). It has a light blue wire next to it on one side and a white/black wire on the other side. The BCM is a black box about the size of a paperback mounted under the passenger side of the dash behind the glove box.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2014
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Thanks for the info, Whitebird. Doing it that way I'd just be running the switch wire from behind the glovebox to wherever I put the SPST rather than fishing it through the firewall if I went for the PCM instead. Plus if I used the fuel pump line from the PCM some of the connections would be exposed to the elements under the hood. Seems simple enough (hopefully).
I assume using a switch on the existing VATS fuel disable function would still work whether someone hotwired or push started the car? That's what I'm really trying to guard against.
Adding this switch may be overkill, but it's my baby (don't tell my kids though...
) I just want to have some extra insurance just in case.
I assume using a switch on the existing VATS fuel disable function would still work whether someone hotwired or push started the car? That's what I'm really trying to guard against.
Adding this switch may be overkill, but it's my baby (don't tell my kids though...
) I just want to have some extra insurance just in case. Trending Topics
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 31
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From: bay area, CA
is it an easier solution than to just install a kill switch for the battery? and there won't be any problems hooking up a secondary switch to the existing VATS? new here especially when it comes to electrical
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Verdad Gallardo Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 345
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Using a switch in the fuel enable signal has several advantages over a battery kill switch...
- it's far less obvious and therefore harder for a thief to work around. When there is no power at all to the vehicle, it's pretty easy to figure out the problem but when the engine simply won't run (no fuel) there's many more possibilities for the cause.
- you don't have to open the hood to use it (or reach into the wheel well or whatever).
- you don't need heavy gauge wiring and a large switch. In fact, with a Camaro you can add a second factory fog light switch to have your anti-theft hiding in plain sight.
There are no side effects to installing a switch in the fuel enable signal wire as long as you ensure your connections are solid. VATS will work completely normally with the switch in the ON position and the PCM will just assume that VATS is preventing fuel enable when the switch is in the OFF position.
- it's far less obvious and therefore harder for a thief to work around. When there is no power at all to the vehicle, it's pretty easy to figure out the problem but when the engine simply won't run (no fuel) there's many more possibilities for the cause.
- you don't have to open the hood to use it (or reach into the wheel well or whatever).
- you don't need heavy gauge wiring and a large switch. In fact, with a Camaro you can add a second factory fog light switch to have your anti-theft hiding in plain sight.
There are no side effects to installing a switch in the fuel enable signal wire as long as you ensure your connections are solid. VATS will work completely normally with the switch in the ON position and the PCM will just assume that VATS is preventing fuel enable when the switch is in the OFF position.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2020
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I tried this method today and got confusing results. I killed the dark blue wire, and as advertised there was no fuel. I tried 3 times and it just started, then died. I connected the kill switch and it started right up. I turned the kill switch of and it kept running. I killed it and could not replicate the success. I even waited three hours and disconnected the battery terminal. Reconnected, completely took the kill switch off, and with the wire disconnected it still starts and runs. Any ideas?
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 3
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I tried this method today and got confusing results. I killed the dark blue wire, and as advertised there was no fuel. I tried 3 times and it just started, then died. I connected the kill switch and it started right up. I turned the kill switch of and it kept running. I killed it and could not replicate the success. I even waited three hours and disconnected the battery terminal. Reconnected, completely took the kill switch off, and with the wire disconnected it still starts and runs. Any ideas?
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2020
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Whitebird Help! The factory VATS (Vehicle Anti Theft System) already has fuel disable built in. If an attempt to start the car is made without the correct ignition key chip, VATS disables both the starter relay and the fuel enable signal to the PCM.
Unfortunately, VATS is not a sophisticated system and it's been around for a long time. It's still effective at deterring ******-and-grab thieves and joyriders but it certainly won't stop a pro. With a 15 year old car, that may be all that's necessary - I don't know of much demand for stolen 4th generation f-bodies these days.
However, if you want to add your own fuel kill switch, using the existing VATS wiring is probably the easiest way to go. All you have to do is cut the fuel enable signal wire and connect each end to the terminals of a SPST (single pole single throw) standard on/off switch. With the switch on, VATS will work as normal. With the switch off, the PCM won't enable the fuel pump regardless of what VATS does.
The wire you need is the dark blue one in position D8 of the blue 32-pin connector on the body control module. D8 is almost dead center of the bottom row of the connector (that's the row that is opposite the push-to-release tab on the connector). It has a light blue wire next to it on one side and a white/black wire on the other side. The BCM is a black box about the size of a paperback mounted under the passenger side of the dash behind the glove box.
Unfortunately, VATS is not a sophisticated system and it's been around for a long time. It's still effective at deterring ******-and-grab thieves and joyriders but it certainly won't stop a pro. With a 15 year old car, that may be all that's necessary - I don't know of much demand for stolen 4th generation f-bodies these days.
However, if you want to add your own fuel kill switch, using the existing VATS wiring is probably the easiest way to go. All you have to do is cut the fuel enable signal wire and connect each end to the terminals of a SPST (single pole single throw) standard on/off switch. With the switch on, VATS will work as normal. With the switch off, the PCM won't enable the fuel pump regardless of what VATS does.
The wire you need is the dark blue one in position D8 of the blue 32-pin connector on the body control module. D8 is almost dead center of the bottom row of the connector (that's the row that is opposite the push-to-release tab on the connector). It has a light blue wire next to it on one side and a white/black wire on the other side. The BCM is a black box about the size of a paperback mounted under the passenger side of the dash behind the glove box.
Hey whitebird, I'm a complete noob to this stuff. Wondering if you could PM me so I could ask a few questions. Just trying to figure out the easiest place for me to cut in a kill switch either at BCM in glove box as stated here or under dash btw steering wheel column and kick panel where the instrument panel harness is. I can't seem to find those specific colored wires for my 2002 z28. Any help figuring which wire to cut into would be greatly appreciated.
Bcm in glove box
48 pin instrument panel harness under dash