Auto Head light defeat options
Auto Head light defeat options I know this link shows how to do it, but i want to try and avoid breaking the damn dash pad in a million pieces
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...ml#post7096661
I also stumbled across this link as well. Not sure if it is another way of shorting the circuit
http://xse.com/leres/ss/drl.html
Would the top section in the second link virtually do the same thing? I do not want to get rid of the DRLs just the auto headlight feature.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...ml#post7096661
I also stumbled across this link as well. Not sure if it is another way of shorting the circuit
http://xse.com/leres/ss/drl.html
Would the top section in the second link virtually do the same thing? I do not want to get rid of the DRLs just the auto headlight feature.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 673
Likes: 0
From: Kansas
I did this one
http://xse.com/leres/ss/drl.html
about 14 years ago and don't have any problems with it.
http://xse.com/leres/ss/drl.html
about 14 years ago and don't have any problems with it.
I did this one
http://xse.com/leres/ss/drl.html
about 14 years ago and don't have any problems with it.
http://xse.com/leres/ss/drl.html
about 14 years ago and don't have any problems with it.
I've done the disable from under the dash cover a few times on my past cars and never an issue, just park it in the sun so the plastic is more forgiving when you pop it up.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The soldering option listed at xse.com does exactly the same thing as using a ScotchLock under the sensor - it shorts the two sensor wires together causing a zero resistance that the module interprets as bright daylight all the time so the headlights never go on automatically. Both methods affect only the automatic headlights and have no effect on manual headlight control or the DRLs.
You can achieve the same thing without removing the dash pad and without opening the DRL module to solder by simply installing the ScotchLock connector across the yellow/black and light green/black wires at the blue connector of the DRL module. These are the same two sensor wires that you would short under the dash pad but in a more convenient location. Just unplug the blue connector to get some slack to work with, install the connector across the two wires to short them together, and plug the connector back into the DRL module.
You can achieve the same thing without removing the dash pad and without opening the DRL module to solder by simply installing the ScotchLock connector across the yellow/black and light green/black wires at the blue connector of the DRL module. These are the same two sensor wires that you would short under the dash pad but in a more convenient location. Just unplug the blue connector to get some slack to work with, install the connector across the two wires to short them together, and plug the connector back into the DRL module.
The soldering option listed at xse.com does exactly the same thing as using a ScotchLock under the sensor - it shorts the two sensor wires together causing a zero resistance that the module interprets as bright daylight all the time so the headlights never go on automatically. Both methods affect only the automatic headlights and have no effect on manual headlight control or the DRLs.
You can achieve the same thing without removing the dash pad and without opening the DRL module to solder by simply installing the ScotchLock connector across the yellow/black and light green/black wires at the blue connector of the DRL module. These are the same two sensor wires that you would short under the dash pad but in a more convenient location. Just unplug the blue connector to get some slack to work with, install the connector across the two wires to short them together, and plug the connector back into the DRL module.
You can achieve the same thing without removing the dash pad and without opening the DRL module to solder by simply installing the ScotchLock connector across the yellow/black and light green/black wires at the blue connector of the DRL module. These are the same two sensor wires that you would short under the dash pad but in a more convenient location. Just unplug the blue connector to get some slack to work with, install the connector across the two wires to short them together, and plug the connector back into the DRL module.
I'm going to disagree from the LT1 side. LS1's may be different, but following that exact site and bridging the two pins in the module disabled the DRL's on my 97 (which was my intent).
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo It was my understanding that you were speaking for later 4th gens only, I was just providing some additional info. If the DRL module is similar between 97's and later (which I'm unsure of), it might have similar effects.
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 89
Likes: 16
From: Austin, Texas
Thank you sir this worked perfectly for me and it took a whopping 9 minutes to do.