Figured I would ask here first seeing there's a lot of knowledgeable people here. Don't really feel like joining a jeep forum. At least it's a v8 with few mods Just had a remote start installed on my 02 jeep GC (tarantula Ars 1) Damn 4 ways blink the whole time it's running until you put key in the ignition wtf! It also over cranks every time I remote start it. Tried googling it but couldn't find good info.

 

It flashes the 4 ways because your installer tied the remote start's parking light confirmation wire into the flashers instead of to the parking light circuit.

Tying into the parking lights properly requires a relay, a 1300 ohm resistor and a little extra time. Your installer took the easy/lazy way out.

It overcranks because the remote start is looking for a tach signal from the vehicle to tell it when to stop cranking. It's not seeing a signal so it keeps cranking for it's default preset amount of time.
Your installer either didn't connect the tach wire (lazy) or didn't program the remote start properly to learn the vehicles tach signal.

Sounds like an installer I'd never go to again....

 

Thx a lot for the info! I since talked to the installer and he did say something about requiring a relay/ resister. He also said that it does have a tach wire option that we can try for the over crank. I have no knowledge on remote starts. How hard is it to hook up the relay/resister? Will this make just the parking lights stay on? I have remote starts on my other 2 cars which same guy installed and only parking lights come on when remote started. Is the 4 way thing due to the cheap brand remote start? Do better brands have relay/ resister built in ? Thx

 

The parking light wire is there to give you visual feedback of commands. The lights should flash to confirm lock and unlock and come on solid while remote started.

It's not the product's fault, it's the installers. It flashes because the wire is connected to the wrong circuit in the car due to the installer taking a shortcut.

Hooking up the parking lights properly isn't that hard in itself, but it's not something that someone unfamiliar with remote start installs should probably tackle. Take it back to the installer and make sure he makes it right. Don't accept the vehicle or leave the shop until it is.

 

Thx for quick response and solid info!! I'm getting it fixed next week!

 

I would seriously question the quality of the install from an installer that's that lazy. Especially if he didn't run tach.

I wouldn't pay a dime for him to run the tach wire either. That's pretty much standard in any remote start install. If he tries to charge you for it he's basically charging you for his laziness.

 

Looks like he tapped the wrong wire for light flash, and got the hazards by mistake. Shouldn't take long to correct that, I wouldn't complain too much about an 'oops' like that. As far as the tach wire goes, there are plenty of systems that don't require them. If he used one of the new data modules, it may be being passed to the alarm brain by the module, hence no need to run another wire.

I prefer running a tach wire on my vehicles, but have installed plenty of systems without and just used 'voltage sensing'. This method knows that the engine is running because the voltage jumps up after the alternator kicks in.

He made one mistake, but I wouldn't go as far as to say it was a bad install. Give the tech a chance to correct the system, sometimes things get goofy when you're installing multiple systems in a day. Best of luck, post up if you have any other concerns.

 

Just read your statement on this, and the resistor method makes sense. I'm guessing that they use the same wire, with just a resistor change to choose the function. Meaning one resistor would turn on parking lights, but using a different resistor would turn on the hazards. If he was working fast, he probably just saw the lights come on, and assumed that he had the right resistor value. Again, I don't see this as a bad installation, could have been an honest mistake.

Best of luck getting everything ironed out.

 

Not so much. The wire to trigger the hazards is blue/pink at the hazard switch.
The parklight/headlight wire is yellow at the headlight switch and is a multiplexed wire. Straight negative trigger will turn on the headlights. Negative trigger through a 1300 ohm resistor will turn on the park lights.

Nice of you to try and defend the installer, but I've been an installer for the last 15 years and this is just a case of the lazies.

 

Wasn't trying to defend him, I was an installer myself up until recently. I just hate when people assume that someone is a bad installer when simple mistakes are made. Now that you've pointed out that the wires are different for the circuits, I agree that he botched the install. My point was that just because a mistake was made, I wouldn't say "Sounds like an installer I'd never go to again....".

People make mistakes, just give them the opportunity to make it right. Maybe the tech had never dealt with the BS multiplex circuits that Chrysler chose to go with. Hell, those tripped me up when they first came on the scene.

If the tech refuses to correct his work, and makes you pay someone else to fix his mistake, THEN I would agree that there is no reason to take future work to him. Maybe he corrects the issue within an hour, and you never have another issue with the installation. Is he still a bad installer?

EDIT Decided to look up the vehicle's wiring on the12volt, and found this.

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/....asp?tid=12919

PARKING LIGHTS -|dk. blue/pink *2 | |steering column |

Looks like the same wire that you're referring to, so maybe he used the same site. Is it wrong? Maybe. I don't have an '02 Grand Cherokee in front of me to test. I'm not even saying that that site is right half the time, but it can point you in the right direction. The notes for that wire state that it does in fact trigger the hazards, and that they will flash. Maybe he didn't read the notes and just connected to it and watched the lights come on. Should he have tested the circuit before connecting to it? Yes. Should he have tested the RS system before delivering the rig? Yes. He made mistakes, not saying that he didn't. I just would want the vehicle brought to me to diagnose if I had done the install. Taking it to the competition and saying that I'm a bad installer would be a little over the top, in my eyes.

Done arguing now, hope that you have good luck getting everything straightened out.