Rockford Fosgate review
#1
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
Rockford Fosgate review
Finally got around to installing new speakers in the 99 TA and figured I'd post some info in case someone else is interested.
Hatch speakers are RF Prime R14X2
Door speakers are RF Prime R165s
Install
The hatch speakers were a quick and easy change mechanically. The wiring part is just having to cut off the old speaker harness and crimp on a pair of female spade terminals to create a new adapter harness.
The door mids went right into the factory mounts perfectly. I used the Metra 72-4568 speaker wiring harness and it made the job plug and play.
The door tweeters were a project. They're too small to fit into the stock opening as is and they're a hair too big to allow the stock cover to clip back in. I used a file to carve a groove into the back of the plastic tabs on the covers which gave just enough slack to snap the covers in place while wrapped around the new tweeter. The bonus of this is that the cover keeps the tweeter held in place tightly so you don't have to worry about any adhesives or anything. Wiring was cutting off the original speaker connector and splicing it to the wires coming from the tweeters. Just be aware that the factory wire is thick strand and the new wire is very fine strand. I recommend solder and heat shrink to ensure a strong connection.
Impressions
On the first test run the highs weren't very clear, the mids were a bit better than stock and the lows were a huge improvement. I could feel the bass vibrate the doors. The loss of highs were a bit of a disappointment though.
For a second test run I reconnected the factory hatch tweeters to hopefully clean up the highs and it made a huge difference. I'd recommend people running these speakers leave the factory hatch tweeters connected and see if you like it. The sound stage didn't seem to move any and the music became much clearer. This was the sound I was looking for.
Hatch speakers are RF Prime R14X2
Door speakers are RF Prime R165s
Install
The hatch speakers were a quick and easy change mechanically. The wiring part is just having to cut off the old speaker harness and crimp on a pair of female spade terminals to create a new adapter harness.
The door mids went right into the factory mounts perfectly. I used the Metra 72-4568 speaker wiring harness and it made the job plug and play.
The door tweeters were a project. They're too small to fit into the stock opening as is and they're a hair too big to allow the stock cover to clip back in. I used a file to carve a groove into the back of the plastic tabs on the covers which gave just enough slack to snap the covers in place while wrapped around the new tweeter. The bonus of this is that the cover keeps the tweeter held in place tightly so you don't have to worry about any adhesives or anything. Wiring was cutting off the original speaker connector and splicing it to the wires coming from the tweeters. Just be aware that the factory wire is thick strand and the new wire is very fine strand. I recommend solder and heat shrink to ensure a strong connection.
Impressions
On the first test run the highs weren't very clear, the mids were a bit better than stock and the lows were a huge improvement. I could feel the bass vibrate the doors. The loss of highs were a bit of a disappointment though.
For a second test run I reconnected the factory hatch tweeters to hopefully clean up the highs and it made a huge difference. I'd recommend people running these speakers leave the factory hatch tweeters connected and see if you like it. The sound stage didn't seem to move any and the music became much clearer. This was the sound I was looking for.
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Double Aught (07-12-2019)
#3
TECH Resident
iTrader: (4)
I installed Rockford Fosgate Punch P1652-S component speakers in the doors years ago. I was only going to use the midrange/woofers, since both my tweeters were fine. But when I tested the tweeters, they were so much better than stock, there was no way I wasn't going to keep them. There is a factory crossover in there, which I wound up testing with, and without. It wasn't much different either way, but if I recall, I kept the crossover inline as that sounded a little better. I paid about $90 for mine 8 years ago. I later replaced my sail panel subs with Rockford Fosgate 8" shallow mount subs. My only factory speakers are in the hatch area. I have been very impressed with RF hardware, and I think the resultant system sounds amazing, even with the factory amp and head unit--although CDs sound far superior to FM.
#4
Staging Lane
I went with these speakers for the doors too, super happy with em. I took a video to compare em to stock. They were quieter at the lower volumes but much clearer and defined. The stock ones just sounded like raw noise. Can't wait to see what the car sounds like with the subs I ordered.
#5
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
My plan is to run the P3SD4-8 subs to finish the package. I just can't justify the $300 right now since the stock ones still work and there's a list of things that need to be done around the house. They're in my shopping cart waiting for the right time.
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eb110americana (07-22-2019)
#6
TECH Resident
iTrader: (4)
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...gate-subs.html
EDIT: Based on the link in my thread above, you can buy those speakers for ~$100 each, so you can get in way under $300.
Last edited by eb110americana; 07-22-2019 at 01:15 AM.
#7
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
You may find my install guide helpful to you then. It is for exactly that model:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...gate-subs.html
EDIT: Based on the link in my thread above, you can buy those speakers for ~$100 each, so you can get in way under $300.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...gate-subs.html
EDIT: Based on the link in my thread above, you can buy those speakers for ~$100 each, so you can get in way under $300.
The following users liked this post:
eb110americana (07-23-2019)