FIXED: BOTH Headlights wont go up.???
FIXED: BOTH Headlights wont go up.??? Both of My head lights wont go up. I turn the lights on, both head lights stays down but I can see the lights are on. There is no noise or any sound at all when trying to put them up.
I'm pretty sure its something electrical. I checked the fuses and they look good. I'm not sure what else to check. Anyone ever experience this?
I havent driven the car in months since Ive been installing the procharger & everything but the last time I drove it, both head lights flipped up perfect.
Side note: The last few days Ive been installing some gauges. I don't think I did anything to make the headlights not work.
I tapped into large pink wire under dash for my 12v ignition source and tapped into the brown radio wire for my lighting source.
I'm pretty sure its something electrical. I checked the fuses and they look good. I'm not sure what else to check. Anyone ever experience this?
I havent driven the car in months since Ive been installing the procharger & everything but the last time I drove it, both head lights flipped up perfect.
Side note: The last few days Ive been installing some gauges. I don't think I did anything to make the headlights not work.
I tapped into large pink wire under dash for my 12v ignition source and tapped into the brown radio wire for my lighting source.
Last edited by 30th t/a; Oct 11, 2019 at 03:40 PM.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 967
Likes: 53
From: Winter Haven FL
Could be the 5 wire connector for the headlights. I just had to fix both of mine.
The other possibility is that the mechanism is jammed and the resistance is kicking the motor off before it lifts.
The other possibility is that the mechanism is jammed and the resistance is kicking the motor off before it lifts.
Okay, heres what I found out. I didnt even have the damn module on the car! I removed it not having a clue what it was when I was installing my Procharger kit.
So I connected it up real quick and turned the lights on, both came up. So, I still had to tuck it away, I had to put some force on it to get it into position where I wanted it to sit at.
I get it all situated and tried the lights out again. Now the damn passenger side wont come up! Driver side works great. No noise at all coming from the passenger side.
I bought another headlight control module and installed it. It Did not not fix the problem.
The headlight goes up just fine manually
Where should I look next? motor?
So I connected it up real quick and turned the lights on, both came up. So, I still had to tuck it away, I had to put some force on it to get it into position where I wanted it to sit at.
I get it all situated and tried the lights out again. Now the damn passenger side wont come up! Driver side works great. No noise at all coming from the passenger side.
I bought another headlight control module and installed it. It Did not not fix the problem.
The headlight goes up just fine manually
Where should I look next? motor?
Last edited by 30th t/a; Oct 1, 2019 at 07:58 PM.
Am In testing this correctly?. As you can see, the connectors are removed from the headlight control module.
I turn the headlight **** to the on position.
I put the negative probe of my meter into the black pin, and the positive probe into each of the other wires. All wire show 12 volts except the far left orange wire. I'm assuming this is the issue of why my passenger light will now flip open???
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,332
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
You should have power on both orange wires at all times, the yellow wire when the headlight switch is on headlight, and the brown wire when the switch is on park or headlight. If one of the orange wires has no power then there's a problem. You did test the RH HDLP DR 15A mini fuse in junction box #1 under the hood, didn't you? Never rely on a visual inspection of a fuse (especially one that is 17 years old) because it could be blown but still look fine. Always use a fuse tester or multlmeter, or just replace with a known good fuse.
I confirmed it is a bad orange wire. I took alligator clips and installed them, one clip to the pin that the bad orange wire goes to and the other end to the 12v post next to the fuse block, then the negative alligator clip to the pin that the black wire goes to on the control module and the other end to a ground stud on the fender well. Passenger head light went up.
So where does that bad orange go to? The interior headlight ****? If so I guess I can run new wire from it to the module?
So where does that bad orange go to? The interior headlight ****? If so I guess I can run new wire from it to the module?
Trending Topics
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,332
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Each orange wire comes from the headlight door fuses (left and right) so your test still doesn't eliminate the fuse as the problem - you just bypassed it by wiring to a different power source. If you replace the orange wire, you'll have to go from the fuse in the junction box to the module. Chances are that the factory wire is repairable if it was damaged by the force used to put the module where you wanted it. It probably became detached from its terminal at one end or the other.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Topdon ONE vs. Artidiag 800 BT2: Which is the Diagnostic Tablet For You?
Pouria Savadkouei
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo As i was manuvering the control module into place, I bumped it off of this line lock thing and something grounded out. I'm sure this is what caused the issue.
as for the fuses, I swapped in 2 other good working fuses with the headlight fuses, this did not fix anything.
as for the fuses, I swapped in 2 other good working fuses with the headlight fuses, this did not fix anything.
Well I got it fixed.
Problem was a blow fuse.
Not a headlight fuse like you all might be thinking.
It was the 15 amp Eng. CTRL in the other fuse block.
NOTE: if you shove your multi meter leads into the pigtail like I did (testing for power) you will need to very lightly crimp the little female pins that the wire crimps to, so that they fit the male pins on the control module nice and snug.
Problem was a blow fuse.
Not a headlight fuse like you all might be thinking.
It was the 15 amp Eng. CTRL in the other fuse block.
NOTE: if you shove your multi meter leads into the pigtail like I did (testing for power) you will need to very lightly crimp the little female pins that the wire crimps to, so that they fit the male pins on the control module nice and snug.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,332
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
That's really odd... considering the ENG CTRL fuse is not even remotely connected to the headlights or headlight doors in any way. The only things connected through that fuse are the EVAP canister purge solenoid, the ignition control module (V6 only), and the automatic transmission (if equipped). That would be only the EVAP solenoid in your 6-speed WS6. Must have been one of those weird gremlins that allow a completely unrelated circuit to influence something else. 