Hello guys , im looking to upgrade my 96 z28 and add a 10 inch sub to my stealth box, add speakers to my sail panels, and use a 5 channel amp.
any advice on what would be a good speaker/amp combo for this? I already have a nice clarion head unit.
i prefer infinity speakers but im not sure what amp to use? Im thinking i dont need more than 200-300RMS to the sub.

 

I run 500 watt Fosgate to 2 10'' Punch subs. More than enough power for them.

I've always been a Rockford Fosgate fan. My current as mentioned above is 14 years old without any issues. Amp/Subs still works like day 1.

Not sure how their components compare today though.

 

Any of Infinity's 6.5 Components sound good, especially their Kappa series. If you wanted to stay in the brand you can pick up a Infinity Kappa K5 amp on Amazon for $180 that does 75w RMS x4 @ 4 ohms and 350w RMS x 1 @ 2 ohms.

 

Get with whitebird from this forum. He is the go-to guy. Also look into Kee audio if you want to keep mostly stock and have great sound. The sail panels have small subs already if you end up just upgrading factory. Read the stickies in the electronics section if you have time .

 

Thanks guys!! Ohh i like the idea of the infinity kappa speakers and matching amp.

 

I used Fosgate components for the doors, sail panel and sub with a Kenwood eXcelon 5 channel amp to match my head unit. I think it sounds great and I havent really tuned it yet.

 

I just redid mine and very happy with the upgrade from my prior set up.

Old Set up :
-CDT component fronts with up stage cross overs
-CDT 6.5 Mids
-CDT 10" sub
-Cadence 5 channel amp 100 x 4 and 300 x 1

New set up:
-Focal PS165 FX component fronts https://www.focal.com/en/car-audio/c...kits/ps-165-fx
-Focal PS165 FX 6.5" mids
-JL 10W6V3 https://www.jlaudio.com/products/10w...bwoofers-92140
-JL HD900/5 100 x 4 and 500 x 1. https://www.jlaudio.com/collections/...plifiers-98223

Using an older Kenwood DNN991HD I had in a different car.

The amp rocks and weighs less than 7 pounds and powers the whole thing. Plus quite small.

It is a really nice set up.

 

I'm assuming you're really enjoying this setup? I feel like a copy cat, but I have had the same components waiting to be installed for about a year now. Is there anything you'd change? I grabbed a set of the focal 4" components and planned to install those in the rear instead of anything in the sail panels, but keep going back and forth on if I should add or go back to 6.5s instead of the 4". Any chance you know the dimensions of your amp board?

 

Sadly only listened to it in the garage.

I am doing a transmission among other things. It does sound good though.

 

I just noticed you have a fuse holder in the back near the amp. Did you also place one up near the battery (running 2 fuses in series) or is that the only fuse you're using on the power line? Since the JL HD doesn't have on-board fuses, I thought about adding a second fuse box in the back but wasn't sure if that was necessary or overkill.

 

Remember that fuses protect wiring not devices. The idea is that, should something happen to cause too much current to flow (say, a short to ground because the wire insulation gets damaged or a device such as an amp shorts out), the fuse will blow before the wire can overheat and cause a fire. That's why a fuse should be sized to match the current capacity of the wire - gauge and length. Fuses should ALWAYS be located as close as possible to the power source (the battery) otherwise a short in the wire someplace before the fuse could burn your car to the ground.

Unless the wiring gets smaller closer to the amp (for a distribution block or something), putting a fuse next to the amp is redundant and not at all useful. If you run a single gauge of wire all the way from the battery to the amp then install the correct size fuse near the battery and forget about another one near the amp - it's a waste of effort. Similarly, running two fuses in series is silly. If both are the same amperage then only the one closest to a possible short will do anything and if they are different amperages then only the smaller one will do anything . In either case, the other fuse is useless. Now, there are occasions where you might run fuses in parallel when you have a particularly large wire and can't find a fuse holder of sufficient capacity but that's an extreme case.

 

Thanks WhiteBird00. That's what I assumed, but wasn't sure since the amp didn't have any onboard fuses. If there was a short near the amp I was thinking having another closer to the amp may help, but either way the fuse near the battery would pop which is what is needed.

 

Polk audio .... just thank me later

 

To you and WhiteBird00 I just noticed you were referring to me. That is not a fuse, it is a distribution block. I cheated and that red wire runs to my diff cooler pump. There is a fuse 6" from the battery for the amp up front. The diff cooler only comes on if it hits 180 degrees, there is a sensor in the housing that turns on a relay that this red wire feeds. The sensor is in series with the fuel pumps relay so it only comes on with the key engaged. It only comes on at the track. Like 20-30 minutes of hard lapping. So I do not know if it will add any noise to the amp. Yes that is a trailer hitch. For my track trailer.