Colton Jared

Just bought my trans am a few months ago and I知 wanting to redo the sound system. It had the monsoon system but unfortunately one of the last owners took the amp out and cut the harness off and installed some shitty Walmart kicker speakers. I知 trying to figure out which way to go either install a aftermarket system or rebuild the monsoon system to keep it more original. I was going to put in aftermarket but I found a free monsoon amp at the salvage yard and cut the harness off so I can solder it back in so now I知 not sure what to do.

Kriptic

iTrader: (1)

Audio is no different then doing mods, its personal preference. Its up to you and what you want. few things. So the factory amp was taken out, was an after market amp put in? Is the head unit original or after market? Are all the speakers replaced? What was powering the speakers in the car if the amp was removed? These are questions if i was doing it, that would have to be known. If your able to bench test the amp you got from the junk yard, that would be a plus before you went threw and installed it to make sure it works also. There's alot of questions to start off, the biggest one would be what direction do you want to go? Once you figure that out, i think it will be easier to go ahead and either rebuild the factory system or start working on building an after market one. Whitebird has a whole write up on the factory monsoon system and if you go that route, it will help for sure. Post pictures also if there's any confusion, easier sometimes for people trying to help.

drdave88

Personally, if the Monsoon system is gone, I'd just drop in whatever you'd like. Is there a reason you want to go back to the Monsoon system?

Kriptic

iTrader: (1)

op stated that he might want to keep it more original.

Colton Jared

It has a aftermarket Kenwood Navi unit installed but never had a new amp from what I can tell. Whoever spent all there on the HU and cheaped out on the speakers. When they cut the monsoon amp harness out the spliced some of the wires for the front doors and ran new wires to the sail panels from the HU. The other reason I’m thinking of doing this is for the challenge of repairing the harness since I’m out of work for this virus and bored off my *** lol but also the system I was wanting to put in would cost me around $1500 where this could cost around 300 to do and have from my understanding a huge improvement over the Walmart speakers

Kriptic

iTrader: (1)

gotcha. so right now your looking at keeping the kenwood head unit, wiring in he factory amp and then replacing the speakers?

Colton Jared

That’s what I’m leaning to right now.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Assuming the Monsoon amp you got works (probably does - they don't usually fail in any significant way), you can get a decent although not spectacular system with it. The Monsoon amp is pretty good for what it does (eight channels of clean output when given clean input like your Kenwood head unit) but it isn't particularly powerful and doesn't have a true sub output. Still, with a decent set of components in the doors and subs in the sail panels, many people have been very satisfied with the results. You can always add a stealth box sub if you want more bass.

On the other hand, nothing beats a good aftermarket system if you want lots of power. It's really your choice based on what you want to get out of it and how much you're willing to spend. Check out Kee Audio's website if you want really good speakers to go with the Monsoon setup.

Kriptic

iTrader: (1)

if your putting after market speakers in , already have an after market HU, why not throw a different amp in? Your going get better results with a better after market amp. I know times are tight, but good deals can be had if you look. Just a thought.

Colton Jared

I was originally going to go with a kenwood setup but the 5 channel amp is over 500 bucks alone. Figured this could be a good way to get something going that better then what I have.

Colton Jared

I was looking at putting in the cdt cl61 in the front doors cause there on sell from cdt website for 99 bucks and putting bazookas in the sail panels and leaving the hatch alone unless the 4 inch speakers are blown. The tweeters work fine back there. Firgure around 220 bucks I can get a boost out of what I got so actually hear my music on the highway with the tops out.

Colton Jared

So I’m looking at the amp harness I have and I’ve notice some of the colors are different then what’s shown on the firebird pin layout guide on this site. All the wire colors match except for pin F13-16

The guide says this
F13 grey
F14 white
F15 red
F16 purple

mine is this
F13 white
F14 tan
F15 tan
F16 red

Kriptic

iTrader: (1)

looks like you grabbed an amp out of a camaro. Check out white birds sticky on the monsoon setup. All the information you need is on it, wire colors, pin outputs etc...

Colton Jared

I was reading that sticky and though I might had pulled from a Camaro but the Camaro pin F13 is red and F16 is white along with others wires being different colors but my harness match all the pin colors except for the last 4

JonAdkins

Personally, I was disappointed with the Kee Audio Package (I got the level 3) until I put aftermarket power to them. My HD-6Ms broke on me and I replaced them with some CDT Coaxs and added a 4 channel amp and a stealth box. Don't underestimate a stealth box either. Unless my noise meter is inaccurate, I've managed a 141dB @53Hz.

Colton Jared

If I’m reading right the front door speakers are 2ohm components?

Kriptic

iTrader: (1)

The 2 door mids are @ 2ohm and the factory amp powered them. The tweeters are not wired in with the mids. The tweeters are 4 ohms and are powered of the head unit. Thats from factory.

Colton Jared

Well i spent most of the day wiring in the old amp and surprisingly it wasnt as bad as i thought it was going to be just very cramped sitting in the hatch. Found that the passenger side speaker is trashed and the factory tweeter isn't working anymore. Was going to start working on the driver side door to get it rewired correctly when it started raining so had to stop. I can say that the amp seems to be working and for little 4 inch speakers at made a big difference in the rear audio. Next step will be get some Bazookas for the rear and get those rewired back in and I'm thinking on putting some Infinity PR6510C in the front doors since there 2.7 Ohms.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Don't ever buy speakers based solely on the impedance! If you like Infinity speakers (some love them others complain that they are much too "bright") then by all means go with them. But if you're just trying to find speakers close to 2-ohms, it's a wasted effort. The impedance is simply not that important. Going from 2-ohm to 4-ohm will cut power in half if everything else is the same but half the power results in only a 3dB drop in volume - equivalent to only one click of your volume control. And if your replacement speakers are at least 3dB more efficient than the stock speakers (which ANY decent aftermarket speaker will be) then you lose no volume at all. Not only that but the 4-ohm speakers will generate less heat in the amp (lower current flow) so the amp will work better and last longer.

So buy the speakers you like best rather than ones that come closest to 2-ohm impedance.

Colton Jared

I’m not to picky what’s goes into the front I was just trying to stay close to 2 ohm. I’ll look around for something else then. Just trying to watch how much I spend is one factor. Is there any recommendations what would be good beside the CDT speakers I keep seeing?