I have a 99 trans am ws6. I gave my buddy one of my spare key fob that was already programmed to my car. We got it to program to his 02 formula without any issue. We'll after we got it working on his car we realized it would lock and unlock both cars simultaneously. So I put my car though the programing on just the one fob I was going to keep. Well the car cycles the lock during programing as if the remote has paired. But when I turn the key off and try to use the key fob, it doesn't work. Now the other one isn't working on my buddy's car either and we didn't do anything to his car??? Batteries are brand new and the cars responded during programming only and WILL NOT work the locks after that. Any help would be awesome!!

 

You might get a better response on an F body forum.
this forum discusses LS engine tech

 

There's alot of info on F BODY, GTO, CORVETTE on here... I know someone can help. Ive gotten answers to F-Body specific questions on here and used dozens of write ups written specifically for my vehicle. I'm not new to this. Thanks for your input tho.

 

This is an f-body forum and has been since it started. I've been here since a few months after it started. Most of the focus is on 4th gen f-body but there are sections for others as well.

Onto the topic. Unfortunately, I can't help on this, but there are some threads talking about the programming and issues people have had. Maybe searching might show something. Otherwise, maybe Whitebird00 will see this thread (or you can message him). He's been helpful in the past with diagnosing these issues.

 

Thanks for backing me up on that👍

I've went through almost every thread about the key fobs. I messages whitebird00 earlier today just waiting on a reply. I'm baffled lol I have another remote coming tomorrow, I'll try that. Thanks again!

 

On the topic of new remotes.... you can use a flip key too.
I have a thread on that:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...-firebird.html

 

I came across your thread earlier! I was actually contemplating doing that next when I'm bored ahah the remote has the proper FFIC to program to our cars correct?

 

It programmed like the OEM fob. The thread has a link to instructions. No electronic modifications needed. The only mod was to mount the chip key in place of standard blank.

Annoyingly, the VATS system started getting finicky so I ended up doing the VATS bypass shortly afterward as well. That is unrelated to this fob though.

 

I'm glad this thread has additional information that wasn't in the PM you sent because my first two questions were going to be "have you checked the batteries?" and "why did you have to reprogram fobs that were working?"

I've never encountered this particular situation before so I can only make a few suggestions and hope one works. First, you have to understand that you're not actually programming the key fobs, you're programming the keyless entry system to recognize and respond to the fixed signal that each fob transmits. That's why both your friend's car and yours responded to the fob when you programmed his car - your car still recognized the fob even though another car was also using it.

The first thing I'd try is to program the new remote when you receive it. Doing so will not only match that remote to the keyless entry system but it will also delete the previous fobs from memory. That's why you have to program all of your fobs at the same time... any that aren't included at the time of programming will no longer work with the car. Once you've done that, confirm that the new fob works as it should. Then start over with programming two remotes together to your car - your choice which two... either sell the new fob to your friend or let him keep the one you already got working for him and program the new one along with the remaining old one.

 

Truthfully, it's hard to say exactly whats going on without seeing how many fobs are in the RCDLR now. You may need to get someone with a Tech2 or good scan tool to clear all existing fobs and program yours correctly. A dealer should only charge about $50-70 to do it. But I can't quote how much a dealer may charge, but I only charge .5 at most on an older car. Clear all remotes, program and I usually print out the options for the customer to highlight which options they want, i.e. lights, horn, etc. But that's me.
Most owners and techs don't even know there are options.

 

Well it turned out that both remotes went bad at the EXACT same time. Got a new one in from Amazon today and it programed and works perfect. I still don't understand why the lock would cycle during programing if the remotes are bad. Thanks everyone for the help!

 

There's a few different pn's on Amazon, which one worked for you?

 

Works like a charm

 

I am reviving this 4 year old thread with a related issue I'm experiencing.

A couple months ago I ordered and received from eBay a set of Keyless Entry Fobs for the 2001 Firebird Formula I've been working on.

I followed the programming instructions that came with the Fobs, which is identical to the factory method and also found at the following link.

https://northcoastkeyless.com/2001-p...-instructions/

Upon my first attempt, only one of the Fobs would program and function correctly. I contacted the seller, who suggested I swap batteries in the remotes to see if the problem follows the battery. Instead, I simply replaced the battery with a new 2032 Energizer and was able to reprogram that remote. I did not reprogram the first working remote, as the instructions state to do, however both remotes worked.

I noticed right away, both were kind of slow to react to button pushes. By this I mean, it seemed to take multiple hits of the Unlock or Lock button before I finally got the corresponding reaction from the car. I simply attributed this to being cheap aftermarket pieces and thought it best to leave "well enough" alone.

I've used both remotes off and on over the past few months, both behaving in this matter. I'd hit the button a few times with no reaction, but if I continued it would start to work and would work normally after. Also, when I drive the car somewhere, this initial period of ignoring the command would no longer occur. Almost like I had to prime the fob for the day, then it was fine. However I noticed if I switched remotes during this period, the priming period started over again. But, again, they were working.

Friday I needed to move the car so I could mow the yard. I grabbed a set of keys and hit the Unlock button a dozen or so times with no reaction. I ended up having to use the door key to unlock the car. I thought maybe the fob was just having a bad day, so I tried it again today and again got no response. I tried the other fob and it worked the same as it had in the past. I thought the non-working remote must be the first fob that I had programmed and it's original battery has now petered out like the other one. Sure enough, I was right. I changed the battery for another new 2032 and proceeded to reprogram it and the other fob this time.

Prior to starting this procedure, I checked to see if the other fob was working. It was. So I turn the key on, tuned the key off and pulled the radio fuse. I turned the ignition on and off 3 times leaving it on after the 3rd turn of the key. The car honks twice, locks and unlocks the doors (or so I thought) and pops the trunk lid to indicate it's in programming mode.

After this I hold the Lock & Unlock Buttons on the fob with the new battery and the car immediately locks and unlocks the doors indicating a successful programming. I then pickup the second fob (that had worked just moments prior) and held the Lock & Unlock Buttons for 15 seconds with no reaction from the car. I tried again and again with no reaction from the car. I thought well since it's already programmed, maybe it'll be fine. I shut the ignition off, replaced the radio fuse and tried both fobs. Neither worked.

I attempted the process again. Again the first fob seems to program right away and the second not at all and the results are the same. No working fobs. On the third or fourth attempt is when I noticed the passenger door lock isn't unlocking when it goes into programming mode, nor when the first fob indicates it's been programmed. It locks, but does not unlock during either process. However, when the lock/unlock button on either door is activated, both doors lock and unlock just fine. This rules out a problem with the actuator.

So ,with all of this information, here are my questions.

Is the passenger door not unlocking an indication of something that is preventing the car's Programming Mode from learning (or rather relearning) these Fobs?

Or did I just get what I paid for and these Fobs are junk?

I'd really appreciate some advice here. Thanks in advance.

Edit: I'd also like to mention that I did attempt teaching each of the Fobs singularly, as if they were the only remote. And still neither of them work.

 

There is an error in the instructions you linked... after cycling the ignition between off and run three times, the vehicle will respond by locking the doors, unlocking the driver’s door and releasing the hatch. So, the response of only the driver's door unlocking is correct assuming that the hatch also releases. From your description of the other symptoms, I would suspect that you have received bad fobs - either incorrect or just defective.

 

Thank you for the reply.

You are correct. Thr Fobs themselves were the culprit.

I contacted the eBay seller and they sent me replacements that I was able to successfully program.