I have a 98 TA and want to compeltely replace my Monsoon system. What I was thinking of going to was a component set up front in the doors (something like Infinity Kappa or Perfects), 6.5"(?) mid-bass in the sail panels, and probably one 10" sub out back (stealthbox) -- although I'm contemplating 2 10's. Anyway, my question concern's amp selection. Rather than putting at least one amp on each section (front, mid, sub), I'd like to run it all off of 1, maybe two amps. What does everyone recommend as far as amps and/or crossovers? 4ch, plus 2ch (w/ crossover for sub)?

Thoughts?

I don't want to run any speakers off the headunit amp, and I'd like the system to be clean, SIMPLE and loud. Huge bass is not an concern, but not having 3-4 amps or 3 crossovers or some 30band EQ is. I want to keep this very simple. A separate bass control on the dash/console would be nice...or maybe a 1/2 din EQ if they still make those (Kenwood maybe?).

 

To have a good system you will need at least two amps. I have the thunderform and it sounds good and fits perfectly. The JL stealthbox is made better. As for the front componets, go with something like the Boston Acoustics. The Infinities lack midbass compared to some other choices. You need to go to some local shops and listen to the speakers. I like the MTX Amps and they are reasonably priced. Not many put any speakers behind the front seats. Set up a good front soundstage and forget the rest. I would recomend some tweeter pods from Kevin (SShevy). These raised the soundstage and sound perfect.

The MTX 801D (400x1 at 4ohm) for the sub and MTX 342 (85x2 at 4ohm) for the fronts will do the trick. I am using similar amp from the older series and they work perfect.

 

Ok, so dumb this down for me...I can run the components off of a 2 channel amp? Any crossover's needed?

 

I am running my componets off of the MTX 4202 and they run fine. I am using the high pass crossover, internal to the amp, at 80Hz. The componets will come with their own passive crossover to direct the proper frequencies to the correct speaker. If you are deciding on 2 10's, get the 4 ohm versions so the amp will run ~800Watts@2 ohm. You could get a dual voice coil (DVC) 10" and running the coils in parallel. This way, you only need one stealthbox.

 

Yes, you can run a set of components off a 2-channel amp. Component speakers come with 6 pieces... two tweeters, (L and R) two midranges, and two passive crossovers. The crossovers wire between your amp and the speakers. Each crossover is comprised of filters for the speakers, and has one input (+ and -), and one output for the tweeter, and one for the midrange. If your amplifier has a built in crossover, I would set it to around 100 or 80hz lHigh pass. This would ensure the amplifier doesn't send any real low frequency (100-80hz and lower) signal to the crossover, and ultimately the midrange; the midrange can play these frequencies, but it usually doesn't sound very good and it isn't too healthy for the midrange, especially at higher power levels. You want to reduce the low frequency output of the midrange as much as possible. That's what subwoofers are for. Hope I could be of some help "dumbing it down" for you. An interesting links for learning about car audio:

http://www.bcae1.com/
http://www.carsound.com/cgi-bin/UBB_CGI/ultimatebb.cgi/
http://stevebrownuniversity.com/sbu/...o/default.htm#
http://www.fbodyaudio.com/site.php?page=tech.php
http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/index.html

Good luck!

 

And when you're ready to pick out a real sub enclosure for your car, you can go here

 

Ok, so how about a set of Boston ProSeries 4.5 components, two RF Punch P3002 amps, Subthump stealth box and a MTX 7510-44 10 sub (running single 4 ohms)??

Here's how I see it. Some are recommending just doing fronts and a sub, so I figure thats cheaper...and I can add midbass later. Are the Boston 4.5 speakers good enough with those amps (at 75x2 - 4 ohms)?? I'd like quality sound and for it to be much louder than the Monsoon. I'd like to move the tweeters up to the a-pillars as well (SShevy pods). Does that sub sound ok?

Thanks for all the help everyone!

 

Fronts and a sub is what a lot of guys do anyhow. And you're right, You can always come back later and install some midbass in the rear for fill. Instead of that mtx sub, I would highly recommend either an alpine type R 10 or image dynamics. I think either of those will sound better and hit harder than the mtx. Boston's are pretty good, but I'd go with a 6.5" set since that's the stock size of your car. Maybe that's what you meant anyhow. But don't worry, because it will definitely sound better than the stock monsoon. I didn't see any mention of a new HU. I assume you will be going aftermarket with the deck too. That would be wise IMO.

 

Yeah, most definatly a new deck...cd/mp3/sirius. Ok, I'll take a look at the alpine. also...the Boston pro 6.5" set are rated at 3 ohms...can I push that with a 4 ohm amp?

 

The reason they build them with a voice coil of 3 ohms, is to squeeze a little more from your amp versus similar speakers using a 4 ohm coil. That should be fine, Most amps nowadays are 2 ohm stable in stereo. Yours should be. Any load on down to 2 ohms should be alright for your amplifier.

 

Just did and went with the Alpine Type S.

 

I'll throw in another vote for an image dynamics sub. The ID 10" in a subthump stealthbox is great! FWIW, I've got focal front components, ID 10"/subthump, and a kicker 800.4 amp. One channel each for the front right and left components, bridge the remaining 2 channels into the sub. No rear fill speakers in my car. The kicker 800.4 is nice, it's got a remote bass control that I ran up under the driver's seat. I like being able to adjust the bass on the fly, even turning it down to zero to listen to talk radio.

 

I've never heard the ID 10, but everyone who has it says great things about it.