f14peter

Have been having this issue past month driving it multiple times a week. 2000 Firehawk.

After having my flasher go out, I replaced first with a Novita EL12. Then the turn signals stopped working next day. Replaced EL12 with the EF32RLNP flasher.

Added LED front t/s bulbs to replace a burnt incandescent. I cleaned contacts and now all lights work.

Here’s the issue: When cold and early on in drive, turn signals work fine. Usually much later on or on the return home drive, turn signals stop working completely, or intermittently. The switch sounds the same and headlights, high beams, wipers work. Sometimes I even hear that extra click from the EF32RLNP, indicating it’s getting initial power.

Since I’ve not found much how to material on replacing the turn signal switch in these, does this sound like something anyone else has encountered? Thanks.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

It's probably your LED bulbs. Many less expensive LED bulbs (basically anything from ebay, Walmart, and most of Amazon) are not designed to handle much heat and will fail when left on for long periods as happens with f-body DRLs.

Now, if you want the best and don't mind the cost, VLEDs has bulbs which are specifically rated for DRL use, but they range from $32 each to $160 per pair depending on model.

I have had good luck with JDM Astar 3157 bulbs for DRL / Turn signal use lasting up to two years even when on 8-10 hours daily on long trips. They're available on Amazon for about $30 per pair.

f14peter

I have the sylvania 3157 LED bulbs from autozone. They continuously work as DRLs and those cost $30/pair. I’ll look into the ones on amazon you mentioned. Can’t beat the free returns.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

The fact that you have the problem only after the lamps have been in use for some time would seem to indicate a heat buildup problem. When the turn signals start failing, do the DRLs still work properly or do they flicker or even go out?

f14peter

I’ve checked before and the DRLs were still on. The issue is that it affects both sides. My thoughts are also some sort of heat related issue but these don’t have a built in resistor. I just ordered the JDM Astar switchbacks on amazon and will see how those perform.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Just FYI... switchbacks will not work as expected in f-bodies. This is because the turn signals and DRLs use the same power circuit, so the bulbs will always be the same color except when the headlights are on. You will end up with bright amber lights while the headlights are off or with the parking lights only on (DRL and turn signals will look normal); and white parking lights when the headlights are on that will switch to amber for the turn signals. Switchback bulbs have the white "filament" connected to the dimmer parking/running light circuit and the amber "filament" connected to the brighter turn signal circuit (which on f-bodies is also the DRL). Your car uses the bright circuit at all times except when the headlights are fully on.

f14peter

In that case, that may or may not solve the problem. The turn signals work intermittently regardless if headlights are on. DRLs work consistently in both scenarios as well. I’m hoping that my car’s circuitry responds the same as yours. I didn’t see anything about these switchbacks having a resistor, but the electromechanical relay should be able to absorb the varying electrical load.

Treburkulosis

I found with mine after trying some other LED bulbs even the ones that work in my Flex, Sylavania LED's its a bit more, but you aren't replacing them every few months.

f14peter

What do you mean “it’s a bit more?”

Either way, I bought the JDM astars and superbrightLED 3157 bulbs and will see. Will try both this week and give updates.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

One other possibility is replacing the electro-mechanical flasher with a true "no load" LED flasher like the 10853. Normally that would not be necessary with only the front bulbs replaced, but it is almost always required when both front and rear have been switched to LED. It's possible that you're not getting even the minimal 0.25 amp required for an electro-mechanical flasher.

f14peter

Does the 10853 flasher work if the vehicle has incandescent bulbs in the rear?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Yes, it is a totally electronic flasher which works without any dependence on how many or what type of bulbs are connected. The disadvantage is that you won't have any indication that a bulb isn't working because the flasher doesn't care... so you may want to check the front signals after they've had plenty of time to heat up to ensure that they are actually flashing when you use them - the dash indicator will flash whether or not the front lamps are flashing.

f14peter

Ok perfect, thanks for the help. I saw the 10853 is a 10A max current draw, hence why I was concerned the 4 rear bulbs (at 2.1A each) could surpass that with front DRLs on. That I doubt now with 2 front LEDs.

I’ll give the no-load flasher a try along with the new LEDs.

f14peter

Turned the car on for the first time in a week and the DRLs don’t work at all when headlights are off.

Determined the intermittent turn signals was due to a loose connection on the flasher relay… which can definitely get loose again if the under dash compartment heats up on a long drive. I checked the interior DRL fuses (#1,2,5,9) and they all work.

The JDM astars (with dielectric grease applied) did not like the slightly corroded sockets. The sylvanias worked fine so I put those back in.

So next question, what can cause DRLs (with headlights off) to fail?