Hey guys, hope you’re doing well. My driver side turn signal is not blinking, and as you can see from the below pic that it’s a little bit weaker than the passenger side, I switched between the driver and passenger side DRL bulbs and it still didn’t work, I then cleaned the driver side socket with some tissue and it worked a couple of times then it stopped again. I replaced both light sockets and bulbs (3157 NA) about 18 months ago. And I don’t think there’s any issues with the tail lights on the driver side either. What do you guys think? I appreciate your help and feedback.

 

Do your DRLs work? It looks to me that you are seeing the dim circuit on the left side - part of the parking light system (fog lights are on). The turn signals and DRLs use the (completely separate) bright circuit on each side. Check your DRLs with the lights off, ignition on, and parking brake disengaged. If the right side lights up but the left side doesn't then that bright circuit is the problem. It won't be the bulb since you already switch them side to side, but it could be the socket, the blue wire between the DRL module and the socket, or even the DRL module itself.

 

Edit: thank you for your reply, i tried your way (the lights were off, engine ON and parking brake disengaged) the driver side DRL is completely off now. Please see the below pic, any suggestions guys?
many thanks

edit: when turning on the hazards all the light blink except the driver side DRL .

 

Edit: I think the problem is the socket and/or bulb, even though I switched between the driver and passenger side and it still didn’t work, I then switched them back and what do you know…it worked (for a day or so)
I’ll order some electric/contact cleaner and clean the socket with a soft brush and replace the bulbs (3157NA) and see what happens, what do you guys think?

Unfortunately because I live overseas it’s pretty difficult to find parts, so online is my best bet. do you recommend I apply dielectric grease? If so, then how and where to apply it?

I appreciate your help guys, many thanks

 

Your symptom check kind of threw me off. There are two reasons your left lamp would appear dimmer than the right. The first is what was suggested - it's the dimmer filament of the dual filament bulb that you're seeing. The second is that there is something interfering with (reducing) the voltage that is reaching the bulb (something like corrosion in the socket for example). That seems to be the case here.

I think your plan is a good one. It fits the symptoms and has a good likelihood of success (plus it's inexpensive). As for dielectric grease, it can't hurt to add a little (don't overdo it) to the sockets, especially if you are getting water inside the lamps. That may not be as much of a problem in your location as it is here in North America - the lenses crack from the heat of the constant DRL bulb use and then allow rain water into the lamp. If you're not getting water intrusion then dielectric grease is entirely optional.

 

much appreciated brother 👍😊 thank you very much for your help and time, sorry for not writing everything correctly the first time 😅 I’ll order some SYLVANIA 3157NA bulbs from Amazon along with a can of contact cleaner and keep you updated.

 

Quick question, I was going to only disconnect the negative battery terminal before spraying contact cleaner on the turn signal connector and installing the new bulb 💡
will this affect the car in any way? I’ve read that it might idle funny for a few times then it’ll relearn by itself.

 

Yes, the PCM will have to relearn its settings after the battery disconnection, but it all happens automatically and is nothing to worry about. However, disconnecting the battery is unnecessary for what you're doing. Just leave the ignition and the lights turned off so that there is no current flow to the sockets. Disconnecting the battery is overkill just like when my mother wants me to turn off the main power to the house when I'm replacing a ceiling fan.

 

got it 👍 many thanks brother 😊

 

Quick update, I cleaned the driver side DRL connector with a contact cleaner and installed new light bulb (SYLVANIA 3157NA), the issue was solved (the DRL worked properly and the turn signal worked and blinked on the dashboard ) but unfortunately after I took it for a drive the same issue returned back as if had done nothing. the driver side DRL is now dim and the turn signal doesn’t work it just stays on in the dashboard without blinking.

I turned on the hazards & walked around the car, and the only light that is not working is the same driver’s side DRL. It doesn’t turn on unless I switched on the lights but it’s not blinking.

I keep wondering why it worked at first then went back to malfunctioning could it be the turn signal flasher, fuse, bad connector, DRL module? Is there a way to precisely troubleshoot this issue?

I appreciate your help.

 

Well, it could not be the turn signal flasher for two reasons... the same flasher operates both left and right signals and your right signal still works; and the hazards use a separate flasher yet the left side still doesn't flash. Likewise, the same fuse protects both side turn signals so that couldn't be the cause.

It is possible that your DRL module has gone bad. It has two internal relays which switch between steady illumination for DRL and flashing illumination for signals and hazards. Those relays have been known to go bad occasionally and are generally considered non-replaceable (i.e. there is no part number and they are soldered to the internal circuit board). There is no simple way to test the DRL module, especially since it's an intermittent problem. However, you could bypass it for the left side and see if your turn signal starts working - that would be a good indicator that the module is the problem. You can bypass the left side of the DRL module by using a short piece of wire to connect the light blue/white wire to the solid light blue wire in the module harness. You can do this by carefully inserting each end of your wire into the back of the connector (probably best to "tin" the ends of the wire with some solder to minimize the risk of hitting the pin next to the one you want); or you can use a couple of ScotchLock connectors to tap into the wires themselves. Then test your left turn signal - if the DRL module is the problem then your signal should now work.

BTW, the reason your dash indicator doesn't blink is that the factory flasher is thermal-mechanical - it needs a certain amount of current flow to open and close the circuit which it doesn't get unless all the lamps are working.

 

So, if I have no turn signals at all, and no indicator lights on the dash either, but my DRL's and 4 way flashers work fine, where should I be looking? Or how should I go about testing? Sorry to hijack your thread OP, but I saw it and I need to get mine working, so I figured I'd jump in.

 

first of all, let me just start by saying thank you for taking the time to write down all the above information and trying to help a fellow member 😊
Secondly, I’m thinking of starting to tackle this by changing the socket (connector) and go from there. If that doesn’t work then I’ll try my best to find a good electrician where I live. I’ll keep this thread updated on what happens with me next, I live overseas in UAE 🇦🇪 and unfortunately there aren’t many F bodies here.

No Worries Brother 👍 I hope you’ll find a solution to your problem too.

 

The car has 269 motorsports sockets, they even have the same colored wires as OEM, I installed them about 2 years ago with new bulbs, I still have the OEM sockets, they were in rough shape but I cleaned one as best I could.

Does anybody know what’s the part number for the OEM turn signal socket & what brand it is?
Just incase I needed one in the future.

Thanks guys

 

At a guess, I'd bet you'll find you have no backup lights either. First thing to check is the TURN-B/U fuse (fuse #2 - 20amp). Never rely on a visual inspection of a fuse - a fuse can look fine but still be blown (especially a 20+ year old one) - always test with a fuse tester or multimeter or simply replace with a known good fuse since they cost so little.

 

They worked when I first pulled my car out of storage, then suddenly didn't. I did check the fuse, you reminded me of something. The fuse blows every time I replace it. I have a dead short somewhere. Jogged my brain, thanks.

 

Just read almost the whole thread...Jesus what a pain in the ***! I just had my bulbs changed, now I am gonna double check to see if mine are dim. I hope there not cause I'll be breaking Sh*#t.

 

If your turn signals are working properly and flashing on the dashboard (blinking, not just stuck) then I don’t think you’ll find that they’re dim. The only dim light I have is the turn signal that’s not working.

 

Thanks for the info. U fix it yet? Man I'd be rage in if I had to do everything I read you were doing.

 

You’re welcome Buddy. I haven’t gotten around to fixing it cause mine is a weekend car so it’s not really that urgent but it’s annoying when it happens at first LOL 😂 , I have the original socket that I cleaned using a contact cleaner but I haven’t installed it yet. These F bodies come with their typical problems that you just have to deal with 🥲