probably a noob question but..
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probably a noob question but.. I have a 2 channel amp that will be running a 10" sub. My question is can I use the other channel to power BOTH front door speakers by just connecting them in parallel to the free channel or do I have to bridge? Also, I have a terminal labeled "high level output". What is this?
What amp is that? High Level inputs are meant for tapping off the speaker wires for an input insead of RCA's (low level input). So I haven't seen anything termed "High Level Output" before.
As for wiring up the amp like that, YOu could but you would need more stuff to do it and you lose the Stereo effect. Think of Channels as a left and right. If you wired your door speakers up to one channel you will only hear what's just on the left or just the right. It will sound funky and wierd.
Plus, if you wire both a sub and a full range speaker to the amp you would need a low pass filter for the sub frequencies. You can't use the amps Cross-over if it even has one.
If the amp can do it, There is something called Tri-Mode. It allows the amp to be run both Stereo and Bridged at the same time. The amp must be able to do this to wire it up that way. And you would still need a low pass filter for the sub.
My suggestion is to just use it on the sub and get another amp for the door speakers either now or later.
As for wiring up the amp like that, YOu could but you would need more stuff to do it and you lose the Stereo effect. Think of Channels as a left and right. If you wired your door speakers up to one channel you will only hear what's just on the left or just the right. It will sound funky and wierd.
Plus, if you wire both a sub and a full range speaker to the amp you would need a low pass filter for the sub frequencies. You can't use the amps Cross-over if it even has one.
If the amp can do it, There is something called Tri-Mode. It allows the amp to be run both Stereo and Bridged at the same time. The amp must be able to do this to wire it up that way. And you would still need a low pass filter for the sub.
My suggestion is to just use it on the sub and get another amp for the door speakers either now or later.
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umm? Amp is a Sony GTX-2200. I was mistaken, it is High level inputs not outputs. And the amp is already equipped with a low-pass filter and is also tri-way friendly.
by what u say bout hooking up to one channel and only hearing one side. if I hooked the sub to only 1 channel would I still be losing the "effect"?
channel 1: +1 -1 Channel:2 +2 -2
I was planning on hooking the sub solely to the 2nd channel, but it sounds like your saying I should do something like wire the sub using +1 and -2 to get the full "range" of sound.
It sounds like I just need to get the Tri-way adapter to make this happen, yet I am still
by what u say bout hooking up to one channel and only hearing one side. if I hooked the sub to only 1 channel would I still be losing the "effect"?channel 1: +1 -1 Channel:2 +2 -2
I was planning on hooking the sub solely to the 2nd channel, but it sounds like your saying I should do something like wire the sub using +1 and -2 to get the full "range" of sound.
It sounds like I just need to get the Tri-way adapter to make this happen, yet I am still
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Each channel is one side of the stereo signal. Channel 1 = Left, Channel 2 = Right
Imagine if you will a snare drum and a trumpet. The snare is played on the left channel (your left ear) and the trumpet is played on the right channel (your right ear) Let's say you used channel 1 for your front speakers and channel 2 for the sub. What you would hear coming out of the front speakers is a snare drum only, no trumpet.
What you *MIGHT* be able to get away with if you don't want to buy a new amp is to use both channels for front and then bridge a line to the sub but you will need an external crossover for it. This is only if your AMP is listed as 2ohm stable. Bridging is using the postive from one channel and the negative from the other to power a single speaker.
Imagine if you will a snare drum and a trumpet. The snare is played on the left channel (your left ear) and the trumpet is played on the right channel (your right ear) Let's say you used channel 1 for your front speakers and channel 2 for the sub. What you would hear coming out of the front speakers is a snare drum only, no trumpet.
What you *MIGHT* be able to get away with if you don't want to buy a new amp is to use both channels for front and then bridge a line to the sub but you will need an external crossover for it. This is only if your AMP is listed as 2ohm stable. Bridging is using the postive from one channel and the negative from the other to power a single speaker.
Originally Posted by BigBadWolf
Each channel is one side of the stereo signal. Channel 1 = Left, Channel 2 = Right
Imagine if you will a snare drum and a trumpet. The snare is played on the left channel (your left ear) and the trumpet is played on the right channel (your right ear) Let's say you used channel 1 for your front speakers and channel 2 for the sub. What you would hear coming out of the front speakers is a snare drum only, no trumpet.
What you *MIGHT* be able to get away with if you don't want to buy a new amp is to use both channels for front and then bridge a line to the sub but you will need an external crossover for it. This is only if your AMP is listed as 2ohm stable. Bridging is using the postive from one channel and the negative from the other to power a single speaker.
Imagine if you will a snare drum and a trumpet. The snare is played on the left channel (your left ear) and the trumpet is played on the right channel (your right ear) Let's say you used channel 1 for your front speakers and channel 2 for the sub. What you would hear coming out of the front speakers is a snare drum only, no trumpet.
What you *MIGHT* be able to get away with if you don't want to buy a new amp is to use both channels for front and then bridge a line to the sub but you will need an external crossover for it. This is only if your AMP is listed as 2ohm stable. Bridging is using the postive from one channel and the negative from the other to power a single speaker.
[QUOTE=9silverbird8]Amp is a Sony GTX-2200. I was mistaken, it is High level inputs not outputs. And the amp is already equipped with a low-pass filter and is also tri-way friendly.
by what u say bout hooking up to one channel and only hearing one side. if I hooked the sub to only 1 channel would I still be losing the "effect"?
channel 1: +1 -1 Channel:2 +2 -2
I was planning on hooking the sub solely to the 2nd channel, but it sounds like your saying I should do something like wire the sub using +1 and -2 to get the full "range" of sound.
It sounds like I just need to get the Tri-way adapter to make this happen, yet I am still[/QUOTE
Well it would sound weird if the sub is hooked up only to 1 channel and the music is produced on both.
For example. If a song faded left to right and back again. Wired correctly the volume would only change a little. It will FADE with the music.
If only on 1 channel. it would then be on then off then on again. Basically on completly, off completly then on completly.
The way BigBadWolf explained it is perfect. You would wire it up in tri-mode. You would at least need a passive Low Pass filter around 100HZ. PAC usually make these. Let me find a link for you.
by what u say bout hooking up to one channel and only hearing one side. if I hooked the sub to only 1 channel would I still be losing the "effect"?channel 1: +1 -1 Channel:2 +2 -2
I was planning on hooking the sub solely to the 2nd channel, but it sounds like your saying I should do something like wire the sub using +1 and -2 to get the full "range" of sound.
It sounds like I just need to get the Tri-way adapter to make this happen, yet I am still
[/QUOTEWell it would sound weird if the sub is hooked up only to 1 channel and the music is produced on both.
For example. If a song faded left to right and back again. Wired correctly the volume would only change a little. It will FADE with the music.
If only on 1 channel. it would then be on then off then on again. Basically on completly, off completly then on completly.
The way BigBadWolf explained it is perfect. You would wire it up in tri-mode. You would at least need a passive Low Pass filter around 100HZ. PAC usually make these. Let me find a link for you.
A Tri-Way adaptor. Good choice because it filters both the high's and low's.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-whd1M2J...ac+electronics
Here is a diagram showing how a filter does it's job. Just scoll down a little bit and look
at the 1st diagram.
http://www.sensorsmag.com/articles/0701/24/main.shtml
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-whd1M2J...ac+electronics
Here is a diagram showing how a filter does it's job. Just scoll down a little bit and look
at the 1st diagram.
http://www.sensorsmag.com/articles/0701/24/main.shtml
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sorry for the confusion, i was answering the actual question when i wrote
i wouldn't do it.
i wouldn't do it.
Originally Posted by 9silverbird8
I have a 2 channel amp that will be running a 10" sub. My question is can I use the other channel to power BOTH front door speakers by just connecting them in parallel to the free channel or do I have to bridge? Also, I have a terminal labeled "high level output". What is this?
By the way what type of sub is it? And what door speakers?
That amp has a lot of power. If you are going to power factory or anything low power in the doors BE CARFULL. You could fry the door speakers. 200 x 2 damn. It will make that kind of power.
That amp has a lot of power. If you are going to power factory or anything low power in the doors BE CARFULL. You could fry the door speakers. 200 x 2 damn. It will make that kind of power.
Last edited by Richiec77; Feb 9, 2005 at 03:24 AM.
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Sub will be a Kicker 10" L5. And the door speaker will be getting moved from the backseat up to the front doors. They are Kenwood KFC-1789ie's. 2-55 watts RMS and 220 watts peak. Should I go ahead and wire these in the Tri-way or will i just end up 
?
Also, If I wired the sub in Tri-way as you suggested, that would make it a mono woofer, no? So wats the difference in sound quality here? I mean, I see how wiring the Kenwoods in mono wouldn't be so good given the snare/trumpet example (Thx again BBW), but will it even make a difference with the Sub?
oh and buying another amp is totally out of the question
? Also, If I wired the sub in Tri-way as you suggested, that would make it a mono woofer, no? So wats the difference in sound quality here? I mean, I see how wiring the Kenwoods in mono wouldn't be so good given the snare/trumpet example (Thx again BBW), but will it even make a difference with the Sub?
oh and buying another amp is totally out of the question
Originally Posted by 9silverbird8
Sub will be a Kicker 10" L5. And the door speaker will be getting moved from the backseat up to the front doors. They are Kenwood KFC-1789ie's. 2-55 watts RMS and 220 watts peak. Should I go ahead and wire these in the Tri-way or will i just end up ?
Also, If I wired the sub in Tri-way as you suggested, that would make it a mono woofer, no? So wats the difference in sound quality here? I mean, I see how wiring the Kenwoods in mono wouldn't be so good given the snare/trumpet example (Thx again BBW), but will it even make a difference with the Sub?
oh and buying another amp is totally out of the question
? Also, If I wired the sub in Tri-way as you suggested, that would make it a mono woofer, no? So wats the difference in sound quality here? I mean, I see how wiring the Kenwoods in mono wouldn't be so good given the snare/trumpet example (Thx again BBW), but will it even make a difference with the Sub?
oh and buying another amp is totally out of the question
The Sub being wired Mono won't affect the sound. Your original idea would have the sub going on/off/on/off if the mufic fades left-to-right.
Mono it will fade in volume but will be always present. You are good to go. Won't make much of a difference.
your amp is tri-way compatible, you will need a triway crossover to wire it this way like richie said. there like $30. hooking the system up this way is like hooking a 4 channel amp in 3 channel bridged mode, except you cant adjust the frequencies and volume to each component separately. it will be like running the speakers in stereo 2 channel and running the sub in mono single channel. its not bad to run subwoofers in mono mode, low frequency sound is nondirectional, there is only one sub, it doesnt need stereo sound. The amp will handle giving the sub its full power. Just be careful with the volume, im not sure on the power output to the speakers either. i tried to find how a 4 channel amp does this in 3 channel bridged mode but I havent found it yet. it should be about the same. i would turn the amp all the way down, then turn your radio up as loud as it can go before you hear distortion. then, turn the amp level up until the system is as loud as you can stand it or until you begin hearing distortion, then back it down some. Distortion is what kills the speakers, when a speaker gets too much power it distorts. a speaker can actually thermically handle a lot more power. Setting it up this way should allow you to use the radio volume at free will and not have to worry about blowing the speakers but i would still be careful.
Originally Posted by hourang
your amp is tri-way compatible, you will need a triway crossover to wire it this way like richie said. there like $30. hooking the system up this way is like hooking a 4 channel amp in 3 channel bridged mode, except you cant adjust the frequencies and volume to each component separately. it will be like running the speakers in stereo 2 channel and running the sub in mono single channel. its not bad to run subwoofers in mono mode, low frequency sound is nondirectional, there is only one sub, it doesnt need stereo sound. The amp will handle giving the sub its full power. Just be careful with the volume, im not sure on the power output to the speakers either. i tried to find how a 4 channel amp does this in 3 channel bridged mode but I havent found it yet. it should be about the same. i would turn the amp all the way down, then turn your radio up as loud as it can go before you hear distortion. then, turn the amp level up until the system is as loud as you can stand it or until you begin hearing distortion, then back it down some. Distortion is what kills the speakers, when a speaker gets too much power it distorts. a speaker can actually thermically handle a lot more power. Setting it up this way should allow you to use the radio volume at free will and not have to worry about blowing the speakers but i would still be careful.
Good way to set it up. I got a response from someone at autosound 2000 tech labs.
The crossover (that you need for tri-way) will separate loads by frequency so that the amp is not burdened with combined (paralleled) loads at the same time.
Instead of having one full-time job to do, the amplifier is working two part-time jobs.
The amp's output will be the 2 ohm X 2 rating for the bridged sub plus the 4 ohm X 2 rating for the coaxials. Its total output wattage will not exceed the greatest output into one load (the bridged sub), but each load (sub + pair) will get the amp's rated power because of the crossover separation.
So by this he mean that the Coaxials will se anywhere from 150-200 each
Not good.The Sub will then see around 400-500 also. The frequency splitting is what allows the to work at it fullest.
The only way to make it work with what you have is to wire some 20watt 5-10ohm resisters in line with the positive side of the coaxials (your Kenwood's).
I'll try to find some pics for you , but Most Radio Shack's will have them.
Ask for a Resistor, 20 watt, 5-10ohms. Should look like a long rectangle about 1/4" thick and about 1 1/2" to 2" long. Not hard to do and will keep the power down to the Kenwoods. I believe they are only $2 a set.
Here they are. 8 ohm resistor. Top of the page on the left.
http://www.radioshack.com/category.a...4%5F004&Page=1
Wired in series, These should limit the power of the amp to around 75 watts.
(4 ohms +8 ohm= 12 ohms. 200w @ 4ohms would then go to 100w @ 8ohms. 50watts @ 16 ohms. So 12ohms=75watts.) Now the Resistor is going to take some of the power so. The resistor is going to draw 2/3 of the power and the speaker would draw 1/3 of the power. So the Kenwoods will see 25watts and the resistor will see 50watts and will be extremely hot.
Looking at it futher you should get the 1.0 ohm 10watt resistor. Wire 5 in series per side (10 total resistors.) That way you would get around 100watts for the speakers and resistors total. It will not change the crossover points too much and the Resistors will be able to shed off the heat.
http://www.radioshack.com/category.a...4%5F004&Page=1
Wired in series, These should limit the power of the amp to around 75 watts.
(4 ohms +8 ohm= 12 ohms. 200w @ 4ohms would then go to 100w @ 8ohms. 50watts @ 16 ohms. So 12ohms=75watts.) Now the Resistor is going to take some of the power so. The resistor is going to draw 2/3 of the power and the speaker would draw 1/3 of the power. So the Kenwoods will see 25watts and the resistor will see 50watts and will be extremely hot.
Looking at it futher you should get the 1.0 ohm 10watt resistor. Wire 5 in series per side (10 total resistors.) That way you would get around 100watts for the speakers and resistors total. It will not change the crossover points too much and the Resistors will be able to shed off the heat.
Last edited by Richiec77; Feb 10, 2005 at 02:27 PM.