I think I found the best Sub for the stock pair.
08-21-2005, 03:06 PM
#21
You might want to look into a BatCap. I love those things. Better than a cap.
http://www.batcap.net/
This is the one to look into. Plenty for what you have.
http://www.batcap.net/Model300.html
I had this one while I was competing
http://www.batcap.net/Model400.html
That was for 2 Memphis 1100D's in Parrallel running 3 15" subs. Designed for SPL competition. These are great pieces. Should give it a try. they work better than most Cap's out there and are Priced Well for what they do.
This is a search on E-Bay for ya.
http://search.ebay.com/BatCap_W0QQfkrZ1QQfromZR8
http://www.batcap.net/
This is the one to look into. Plenty for what you have.
http://www.batcap.net/Model300.html
I had this one while I was competing
http://www.batcap.net/Model400.html
That was for 2 Memphis 1100D's in Parrallel running 3 15" subs. Designed for SPL competition. These are great pieces. Should give it a try. they work better than most Cap's out there and are Priced Well for what they do.
This is a search on E-Bay for ya.
http://search.ebay.com/BatCap_W0QQfkrZ1QQfromZR8
Last edited by Richiec77; 08-21-2005 at 03:15 PM.
09-05-2005, 09:22 PM
#22
I ended up having to order a set of these. The place I ordered my rfp4406's from neglected to tell me that they didn't have any in stock. I guess they just figured I'd forget about them since they will never get any more in stock beings they have been discontinued. Oh well I'll let you guys know how they work out once I get them.
09-06-2005, 10:18 AM
#23
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
I checked the sub out in the T/A. It will mount but will need a 1/2" spacer due to depth concerns. I would definitely check these out especially if you don't want to use a stealthbox or another sub.
Get the dual 4 ohm pair and the Monsoon amp should be able to push em enough to sound fairly better than the factory ones.
Get the dual 4 ohm pair and the Monsoon amp should be able to push em enough to sound fairly better than the factory ones.
Is there enough room behind the panel to space the sub out a 1/2"? I really need a new set since mine are bad and I've been looking but I can't find anything. These really do look like a good choice except for the mounting depth... If I can add a spacer and have it fit fine under the sail panel then I'll be happy
09-06-2005, 08:49 PM
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You'd be better off cutting that peice of metal behind the magnet. If you get a half inch spacer, the cone is gonna hit the back of the cover, even without a spacer the cone might hit at high volume levels. That little sub has a huge excursion lenght for a 6.5"
09-06-2005, 11:09 PM
#25
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Yeah I took a look this afternoon and there isn't room to put a spacer... I think with just the little sub the fit would be close anyway. So what should I use to cut the metal with? I need some ideas before I start ordering
09-07-2005, 09:59 AM
#26
Could use a Dremil or a Cut off tool. Might be able to get some tin snips in there to make a couple of cuts to save a little time and more $$ on the Cut-off disks.
If you use a dremil, the wheel's get used up kind of quick. Also they break if it bends at all during the cut. Make sure you have some safety glasses.
Can't wait to hear how they sound. I'm interested in these if they work out. I'd love to keep as much trunk space as I can for now.
If you use a dremil, the wheel's get used up kind of quick. Also they break if it bends at all during the cut. Make sure you have some safety glasses.
Can't wait to hear how they sound. I'm interested in these if they work out. I'd love to keep as much trunk space as I can for now.
09-07-2005, 10:42 AM
#27
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I'll have to see if I can get in there with the dremel to cut with the wheel... I'm sure I can figure out some way to do it. I'm just tired of hearing the torn speaker when I turn up the radio. I have a 12" sub and amp but I took them out for now.
I'll see what I can do once I get the subs
I'll see what I can do once I get the subs
09-07-2005, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
Well, the nice thing about the EU-700 is that you can order an identical wiring setup as the factory dual-4ohm voice coil. That has always been one of the tough things with finding a replacement when you blew a factory sailpanel 'sub'.
I am probably going to order a pair of them, as well as about 60ft of the sound deadening material for my doors and such. Should make a good difference in the mid range in my car.
I currently have the JL stealthbox and have plenty of low end, but looking for some better mid and high.
I am probably going to order a pair of them, as well as about 60ft of the sound deadening material for my doors and such. Should make a good difference in the mid range in my car.
I currently have the JL stealthbox and have plenty of low end, but looking for some better mid and high.
Are the factory subs dual-4ohm and not 2ohm? How does that work? 
09-07-2005, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Josh_101
Hold on I'm confused here Are the factory subs dual-4ohm and not 2ohm? How does that work?
Are the factory subs dual-4ohm and not 2ohm? How does that work?dual 4ohm wired in series = 8ohm
the facory trans am sail panel subs are dual 4ohm wired in parallel.
09-09-2005, 03:26 PM
#33
I got my speakers in the mail today. Now I need to know which wires go where. There are 4 wires from the factory harness. All 4 are different colors. There are 4 different places to hook up wires to the new speakers. 2 are red 2 are black. Could somebody tell me which wires go where. The factory colors are red, tan, blue/black stripe, and green I think. (I'm color blind pretty bad.)
09-09-2005, 04:44 PM
#35
Originally Posted by blue01ta
I got my speakers in the mail today. Now I need to know which wires go where. There are 4 wires from the factory harness. All 4 are different colors. There are 4 different places to hook up wires to the new speakers. 2 are red 2 are black. Could somebody tell me which wires go where. The factory colors are red, tan, blue/black stripe, and green I think. (I'm color blind pretty bad.)
However, I have a question of my own - I ordered these subs and when I hooked them up, they simply don't play in my car (subs are good, tested them on another source). I tested the voltage before I extended the wires and hooked them up and there was certainly current flowing through there, but after I hooked them up, there's nothing coming out of the wire. I don't see how I could have shortcircuited anything...
Even stranger, I hooked the driver's side up first and got nothing, but still had current in the passenger side plug. Then after trying it on the passenger side, there's no longer anything out of either side.
Any ideas?
09-09-2005, 06:35 PM
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So is it better to have 2 or 4 ohm than 3 ohm?
Because I found some audiobahn and digital audio stuff thats about the same as the elemental design, but the mounting depth is a little shorter.
Because I found some audiobahn and digital audio stuff thats about the same as the elemental design, but the mounting depth is a little shorter.
09-10-2005, 01:47 PM
#37
Got my speakers put in last night. I hooked mine up using the factory wiring harness. There are 2 red and 2 black hookups on the new speakers. 1 of each color on each side. The factory wiring coming from the speakers are set up the same so I just cut the harness off of them and wired them up to the new speakers. Then I just plugged them into the factory harness in the sail panel. Right at the moment I can't say I'm too impressed with them. The plastic piece (or whatever it's made out of) on the front of the speaker is hitting something on the inside of the speaker making a vibration. At first I thought and was hoping it was the speaker cover vibrating. But it wasn't. The speakers hit fairly decent for the price but with the vibration you can't hardly turn it up too loud. It vibrates constantly unless you turn the bass completely off. Then it sounds like **** with just the highs on. Is there anything I can do to stop this from happening or do I need to try something else?