what would it take to hit 150+db
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 628
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From: Richmond, Texas
what would it take to hit 150+db ok im going to buy an fbody again and i want something that is going to hit really hard, but i also want it to sound good. my old car had an orion 15 with 1000watts on it. didnt hit hard like 10's would but it had lots of bass. i had it in a sealed box so it was as clean as a 15 was gonna get.what would yall suggest would get me a 150+db in an fbody. what amps,subs, how many subs, what kind of box, where mounted in the car. keep in mind car will still be performance and eventually have roll cage. help me out guys
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 26
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the weight of a system capable of 150db would majorly slow down performance and throw off your handling a bit probably. but if you want i'd say a wall sealed around the cage, also bolted to it, with at least 2 15's or 4 12's.....around 2-3,000 watts, but the subs will depend on what you can supply power wise, amps would depend on the subs.....ported box, i'd say tuned around 32hz for daily. also what's your budget? cause supporting 2-3,000 watts is going to take all 1/0 wiring, sound deaden the entire interior, couple batteries and a High Output Alternator.
and the specs on that thing....
Size: 34 inch
Rec. Sealed Box Dims: 9.00 - 30.00 cu.ft.
Rec. Ported Box Dims: not recommended
Free Air Usage: not recommended
Sensitivity: 88.9 dB
Frequency Response: 10-400 Hz
Recommended RMS Power: 5000W
Peak Power Handling: n/a
Impedance: dual 1 ohms subwoofer wiring options
Size: 34 inch
Rec. Sealed Box Dims: 9.00 - 30.00 cu.ft.
Rec. Ported Box Dims: not recommended
Free Air Usage: not recommended
Sensitivity: 88.9 dB
Frequency Response: 10-400 Hz
Recommended RMS Power: 5000W
Peak Power Handling: n/a
Impedance: dual 1 ohms subwoofer wiring options
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 26
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you scored 157.6 on what mic? i'd bet it was an Audiocontrol mic, they score somewhere's between 5-10 db less than the new Termlab sensors or LinX mics. The newer AC190 is better, but only when freshly calibrated. also depends on what frequency you want to hit 150? easiest would be around 50hz range, the lower frequencies require more subs/power to reach 150.
Originally Posted by 86Z28
you scored 157.6 on what mic? i'd bet it was an Audiocontrol mic, they score somewhere's between 5-10 db less than the new Termlab sensors or LinX mics. The newer AC190 is better, but only when freshly calibrated. also depends on what frequency you want to hit 150? easiest would be around 50hz range, the lower frequencies require more subs/power to reach 150.
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Originally Posted by ohohsilverado
ok im going to buy an fbody again and i want something that is going to hit really hard, but i also want it to sound good. my old car had an orion 15 with 1000watts on it. didnt hit hard like 10's would but it had lots of bass. i had it in a sealed box so it was as clean as a 15 was gonna get.what would yall suggest would get me a 150+db in an fbody. what amps,subs, how many subs, what kind of box, where mounted in the car. keep in mind car will still be performance and eventually have roll cage. help me out guys
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On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 151
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From: The State of Jefferson!
a daily pounder.......2 top level 12 or 15's, 2kw EACH, and the battery power to back it. i've noticed 7 db less on the TL vs what i used to put up on the AC mic (which was used still in 98) i'm doing 151 on the TL with 2 treo ssx 15's @ 41 hz. i'm tuned for daily. if you want to play with jl, get the 13w7's and 2kw each one. my friend hit 150.1 @ 41hz in a daily box with his and borrowing 2 of my 2.4kw amps. get burly subs......
memphis mojo
treo ssx
kicker l7
atomic
DD
mtx 9500
jl w7 13
ground zero nuclear
any of the true bad boys.
memphis mojo
treo ssx
kicker l7
atomic
DD
mtx 9500
jl w7 13
ground zero nuclear
any of the true bad boys.
Last edited by 95stroked1500; Oct 5, 2005 at 08:34 PM.
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 628
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From: Richmond, Texas
sweet, thanks for all the replies. i do understand that having the extra weight will affect performance of the car. thats why i wanted to see if this is doable. any comments on what type of box to use and placement of it. oh and btw i do want it setup for daily driving sound. will sacrifice spl for sound quality, i just want to get the most that i can. i am biased towards us amps, but as far as subs go i just dont know. not a big fan of jl audio. its a personal thing. people around here tend to see jl and think "how much did your mommy pay for your system?"
Originally Posted by ohohsilverado
sweet, thanks for all the replies. i do understand that having the extra weight will affect performance of the car. thats why i wanted to see if this is doable. any comments on what type of box to use and placement of it. oh and btw i do want it setup for daily driving sound. will sacrifice spl for sound quality, i just want to get the most that i can. i am biased towards us amps, but as far as subs go i just dont know. not a big fan of jl audio. its a personal thing. people around here tend to see jl and think "how much did your mommy pay for your system?"
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 26
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also a Resonant Engineering XXX or SX would be a good choice, i've personally owned an RE SX 15, 3.5 cu ft ported tuned to 32hz for daily. hit 144.3 TL with it in the back of my daily driver cavalier. go with subs facing forward, port same side. run around 3kw of power.
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 151
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From: The State of Jefferson!
so why are you bias against us amps? was it something done under the old owner?
you better tell him the design and amp, because there are butt loads of people who got on the RE wagon and aren't hittin' squat. there's posts all over, "help me get loud", "i thought it would hit but it doesn't", "for sale, doesn't have the sq or the output i was after", and so on.
i slapped one of my treo 15's in my friends navi for the last comp and hit a 146.3 @ 41hz in street B with a tiny batt.. dropped to 9V immediately, every burp.
subs and port up, loading off the rear window for a daily pounder. going to increase your wavelength distance by what.......3 feet as opposed to forward firing. which will take you from about a 55 hz to a 35hz 1/4 wavelength developed by the time it hits the front of your vehicle. it will help with the sound of the bottom end.
you better tell him the design and amp, because there are butt loads of people who got on the RE wagon and aren't hittin' squat. there's posts all over, "help me get loud", "i thought it would hit but it doesn't", "for sale, doesn't have the sq or the output i was after", and so on.
i slapped one of my treo 15's in my friends navi for the last comp and hit a 146.3 @ 41hz in street B with a tiny batt.. dropped to 9V immediately, every burp.
subs and port up, loading off the rear window for a daily pounder. going to increase your wavelength distance by what.......3 feet as opposed to forward firing. which will take you from about a 55 hz to a 35hz 1/4 wavelength developed by the time it hits the front of your vehicle. it will help with the sound of the bottom end.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 26
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i'm not quite sure what you mean by RE wagon, everyone i've seen using them, seems to be pretty damn happy with the quality/performance of the product compared to major brands.....all you have to do is use the manufacturers recommendation for box size and power is a must, xxx will take 2kw daily, sx i've seen take 3kw for burps and 1.5kw for daily driving.....personally, i'd say get 2 sx's since they mic higher than the xxx anyway, about 2.2-2.5kw for daily driving at 2.8 ohm so each sub would be dual .7 ohm vc......then for competition burp that same amp at .7 ohm.....you'll definitely be able to make 150 like that, but you have to figure having an alternator (220 amp at least) and enough batteries to supply it so voltage doesn't drop to much and fry the amp.
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 628
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From: Richmond, Texas
95stroked....im not biased against us amps. im biased towards. they are off the hook, at least the old school ones are which is what i have. sorry for the confusion. thanks 86z28, ill have to look into the resonant engineering subs. i dont know anything about them. what amp would you recommend if i didnt go with us amps?
You'll need to also concentrate on the Part alot of people forget. Aux parts.
It's like putting on a blower and not upgrading the fule system. No juice, no dB's.
SERIOUSLY look into BatCaps. They are an awesome product that alot ot SPL Competitor's swear by.
http://www.batcap.net/
Also search Ebay. I've seen some nice pricing on them there.
Also need to dampen Doors and other resonate panels so that they won't vibrate to death. You are talking about pushing the Resonate freq down to the 40's. That causes more resonance in the vehicle. You are going to start approaching the resonate Freq of the vehicle chassis or a Harmonic close to it.(it's a Uni-Body remember).
Power Wires. ANL fuses (no Breakers. Can over heat due to gaps). BatCaps or extra Battery (no capacitors), Dampening mat., Upgrade the grounds, Etc.
It's a System 1st and foremost. Concetrating on the Subs and Amp is Fine. It's a Good starting point so you'll know what you have to buy to support it. Just don't forget the extra stuff that goes with building a Lasting SPL system.
It's like putting on a blower and not upgrading the fule system. No juice, no dB's.
SERIOUSLY look into BatCaps. They are an awesome product that alot ot SPL Competitor's swear by.
http://www.batcap.net/
Also search Ebay. I've seen some nice pricing on them there.
Also need to dampen Doors and other resonate panels so that they won't vibrate to death. You are talking about pushing the Resonate freq down to the 40's. That causes more resonance in the vehicle. You are going to start approaching the resonate Freq of the vehicle chassis or a Harmonic close to it.(it's a Uni-Body remember).
Power Wires. ANL fuses (no Breakers. Can over heat due to gaps). BatCaps or extra Battery (no capacitors), Dampening mat., Upgrade the grounds, Etc.
It's a System 1st and foremost. Concetrating on the Subs and Amp is Fine. It's a Good starting point so you'll know what you have to buy to support it. Just don't forget the extra stuff that goes with building a Lasting SPL system.
Last edited by Richiec77; Oct 6, 2005 at 07:01 PM.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 26
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nothing wrong with going US amps, except they draw a bit more current than most amps do that put out that power, that can be taken care of by an upgraded alt and a couple deep cycle batteries though. rockford's new t30001bd is a monster for power and they're pretty efficient. also if you'd like to talk more about your stereo, hit me up on aim imsolost7886
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 151
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From: The State of Jefferson!
the new us amps are a lot more efficient. but then again....are you comparing their old monster class AB to others class D? us amps has class D's that are 80% efficient at full tilt. no ax line avail until january though. but they came out with an entry level and a mid level this year. both well worth their $. the 2nd level merlin has 2 class D's, a 1 kw+ and a 1.5 kw+. the md-1d goes for about $ 580 and the md-2D goes for around $750.
i know some poeple like RE and do good with them in comps. what i meant by the re wagon, is all the parrots that squaked how awesome they were because it was the in thing to do. but then when they finally got them for themselves.....they didn't magically do any better with them, than they did with their old gear. like having 2 15's and 2.5 kw of power in this special ported box.....but barely hitting 140. in some cases they did way worse because of how un-efficient some of their drivers are.
ditch the deep cycles.......odyssey batteries are also top notch with the batt caps. odyssey dry cell's deep cycle and high amperage both, and have a quick recharge time.
lots of other decent amps....
memphis
treo
ground zero
spl dynamics
hifonics
autotek
DD
etc.....
i know some poeple like RE and do good with them in comps. what i meant by the re wagon, is all the parrots that squaked how awesome they were because it was the in thing to do. but then when they finally got them for themselves.....they didn't magically do any better with them, than they did with their old gear. like having 2 15's and 2.5 kw of power in this special ported box.....but barely hitting 140. in some cases they did way worse because of how un-efficient some of their drivers are.
ditch the deep cycles.......odyssey batteries are also top notch with the batt caps. odyssey dry cell's deep cycle and high amperage both, and have a quick recharge time.
lots of other decent amps....
memphis
treo
ground zero
spl dynamics
hifonics
autotek
DD
etc.....
