Meissen's Project CarPC Thread
07-27-2006, 07:45 AM
#221
Originally Posted by HPP
Jason, about HVAC controls, what about taking the rocker switch controlling an electric motor hooked to the temp cable idea, and going a step further with it?
The 2 large *****, flanking a single vertical rocker might be tricky to make look right. Plus it would still be large(-ish).
On my Grand Prix, like I mentioned before, the fan speed is a mechanical push button. I don't know what it looks like inside, but what it feels like is a dual rachet of some sort. When you press one, it feels like it turns a small wheel inside, which rotates the selected contact. Press it up to 3 times to reach maximum and then it stops working. Press the other one and it goes back the other way. Again, up to 3 times.
Ok, something similar to that could be worked up for the same use here (or even outright cannibalized). Then you could have 2 rocker switches flanking 1 ****. Speed on left, temp on right, with mode dominating the layout in the center.
It should fit in the TCS/Roof switch area. Maybe even not consume the lighter. Plus you could extend the post/shaft for the **** for the mode selector and push that internal control further back (if needed) and make a smaller **** and squeeze things in closer.
Or maybe instead of 2 rockers, 4 buttons on either side of 1 ****.
If you could fit them all down there, then you could make the lighter area an interface (USB or IEEE 1394), like Bernhard did, and have the massive 10.4" screen mounted securely above. Everything would be in reach, nothing has to be hidden anywhere, and no fancy hinged/tracked displays to get in the way of anything.
The 2 large *****, flanking a single vertical rocker might be tricky to make look right. Plus it would still be large(-ish).
On my Grand Prix, like I mentioned before, the fan speed is a mechanical push button. I don't know what it looks like inside, but what it feels like is a dual rachet of some sort. When you press one, it feels like it turns a small wheel inside, which rotates the selected contact. Press it up to 3 times to reach maximum and then it stops working. Press the other one and it goes back the other way. Again, up to 3 times.
Ok, something similar to that could be worked up for the same use here (or even outright cannibalized). Then you could have 2 rocker switches flanking 1 ****. Speed on left, temp on right, with mode dominating the layout in the center.
It should fit in the TCS/Roof switch area. Maybe even not consume the lighter. Plus you could extend the post/shaft for the **** for the mode selector and push that internal control further back (if needed) and make a smaller **** and squeeze things in closer.
Or maybe instead of 2 rockers, 4 buttons on either side of 1 ****.
If you could fit them all down there, then you could make the lighter area an interface (USB or IEEE 1394), like Bernhard did, and have the massive 10.4" screen mounted securely above. Everything would be in reach, nothing has to be hidden anywhere, and no fancy hinged/tracked displays to get in the way of anything.
Here is a before and after pic that shows what I was envisioning.
I don't really like the way that looks, so your idea would probably look better.
My setup is a bit unique in that I use both a Conv. top switch and a TCS switch. I think I would move those to the ashtray area and possibly mount the DEF button in there as well. All 3 of those are not commonly used by me so it's no trouble to open the lid to access them.
I also converted my A/C ***** and headlight **** to all match and they all light up. I don't think I would want to use a smaller **** for the vacuum selector switch. I will keep it as is and then use another lighted Conv. top rocker switch to control the hot/cold selection. It would be nice if I could use an identical switch for the fan selector that you where mentioning. Or maybe use similar 91 GP switches for both so that they match. Are you able to get a good picture from your car? Are they a matching gray color and light up orange/red? That might work. Or I could go to the salvage yard and look through the Pontiacs and see what switches would work. As far as how they are arranged, I would do that once I see them all together. I definetly want it to look factory.
Here's an example of a simple gear reduction setup that could be attached to the flapper under the dash. I really need to go to an RC store and see what they have. I don't want the flapper to move too quickly, so it would need a pretty big gear reduction. Mayby 50:1 or even 100:1 ratio.
http://cgi.ebay.com/HIMAX-GEARBOX-EX...QQcmdZViewItem
07-27-2006, 11:04 AM
#222
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I'm thinking it would be easier to just turn the cable interface, just as the **** currently does, rather than swing flappers. Or are we talking about hte same thing with different terms? lol
I'll try to get a pic of my GP this weekend. Need to find batteries for the camera and a host to post them. The buttons do light up, and are Pontiac orange-red.
I keep forgetting just how big those ***** are and how small the area next to the lighter is.
It looks like no matter what the lighter location will be occupied. What about the cup holder? Do you use it? If not, you could take that imprinted circle (whatever it is) that's facing out right now (when the holder is tucked away), and turn that into a cover for a data port. If you even wanted a data port there.
I think it might look better to get a rocker that is larger than the 'vert top switch, but maybe not. Would have to see one of your expert chops of 2 of them flanking the mode selector ****.
Defrost is a simple momentary electrical contact, isn't it? Feels like one. You could make that button smaller, or.... add button press functionality to the mode selector **** to activate the defroster. And you could even run the light to somewhere else for indication of it being on. Or, you could mount that button off to the driver's side of the console. Out of the way and generally out of sight, but not totally or awkwardly hidden. Or you could even mount it next to the hatch release button on the left of the steering wheel (I'm thinking there's space there.... Haven't driven it for a week, have trouble remembering the finer details. lol)
The e-cutout and TCS could be put in the ashtray, like you said. You could change it so it didn't look like an ash tray at all and maybe have a slide cover instead of a flip one, or one that you press behind the hinge so there is no raised section.
I'm thinking about trying to control the TCS switch through the PC. Not sure how just yet. But it's something I'd like to pull off.
Which just gave me an idea.... if you were to mount a temp sensor on the rear glass, and a photosensor under it, you could read both and set parameters in software. Basically, have it check the time to verify daylight, then check the temp, and if it's below a certain temp, check the photo cell, if the light level is too low, generate a "true" condition for ice or fog on rear window and activate defroster.
That might not cover everything, like I said, just a thought. Should be quite possible to automate it though. Just that extra bit of "trick"
I'll try to get a pic of my GP this weekend. Need to find batteries for the camera and a host to post them. The buttons do light up, and are Pontiac orange-red.
I keep forgetting just how big those ***** are and how small the area next to the lighter is.
It looks like no matter what the lighter location will be occupied. What about the cup holder? Do you use it? If not, you could take that imprinted circle (whatever it is) that's facing out right now (when the holder is tucked away), and turn that into a cover for a data port. If you even wanted a data port there.
I think it might look better to get a rocker that is larger than the 'vert top switch, but maybe not. Would have to see one of your expert chops of 2 of them flanking the mode selector ****.
Defrost is a simple momentary electrical contact, isn't it? Feels like one. You could make that button smaller, or.... add button press functionality to the mode selector **** to activate the defroster. And you could even run the light to somewhere else for indication of it being on. Or, you could mount that button off to the driver's side of the console. Out of the way and generally out of sight, but not totally or awkwardly hidden. Or you could even mount it next to the hatch release button on the left of the steering wheel (I'm thinking there's space there.... Haven't driven it for a week, have trouble remembering the finer details. lol)
The e-cutout and TCS could be put in the ashtray, like you said. You could change it so it didn't look like an ash tray at all and maybe have a slide cover instead of a flip one, or one that you press behind the hinge so there is no raised section.
I'm thinking about trying to control the TCS switch through the PC. Not sure how just yet. But it's something I'd like to pull off.
Which just gave me an idea.... if you were to mount a temp sensor on the rear glass, and a photosensor under it, you could read both and set parameters in software. Basically, have it check the time to verify daylight, then check the temp, and if it's below a certain temp, check the photo cell, if the light level is too low, generate a "true" condition for ice or fog on rear window and activate defroster.
That might not cover everything, like I said, just a thought. Should be quite possible to automate it though. Just that extra bit of "trick"
07-27-2006, 11:47 AM
#223
Originally Posted by HPP
I'm thinking it would be easier to just turn the cable interface, just as the **** currently does, rather than swing flappers. Or are we talking about hte same thing with different terms? lol
Here's the best picture I could find. It's from a different car, but it shows the big flapper and how it diverts the air. Our cable attaches to the pivot point which is on the bottom of our big A/C housing under the dash.
Originally Posted by HPP
It looks like no matter what the lighter location will be occupied. What about the cup holder? Do you use it?
Originally Posted by HPP
Defrost is a simple momentary electrical contact, isn't it?
Originally Posted by HPP
I'm thinking about trying to control the TCS switch through the PC. Not sure how just yet. But it's something I'd like to pull off.
When I had poor tires I would use it more as a safety device. I would stick the fuse back in, but with the 315 GSD3's out back I really don't use it much. SLP makes a device that turns it off when you crank the car and can then be turned back on if needed, but it's $70. 
Originally Posted by HPP
Which just gave me an idea.... if you were to mount a temp sensor on the rear glass, and a photosensor under it, you could read both and set parameters in software. Basically, have it check the time to verify daylight, then check the temp, and if it's below a certain temp, check the photo cell, if the light level is too low, generate a "true" condition for ice or fog on rear window and activate defroster.
07-27-2006, 12:20 PM
#224
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The 2 switches and single **** shouldn't interfere with that cupholder. I just thought that imprinted ring would make for a great cover for a data port.
I don't allow drinks or food or smoking in my car.
lol
Anyway... I see what you're getting at with the flapper now. There are some strong electric prop motors on the RC market. They are great because they are strong and light (direct drive of a propeller, and have to be light for power to weight on an aircraft). They are not generally made to operate in reverse though. Something to definitely look into. Something like that would not add much weight, nor require crazy amounts of gearing.
The reason I want to control the TCS through the PC is for making something of a "sport" mode, like on the M3 or F430, etc.
It's just cool. (I usually ask "why would you want to do that?" in regards to all these people putting video and DVD playback on these things. lol)
I don't allow drinks or food or smoking in my car.
lolAnyway... I see what you're getting at with the flapper now. There are some strong electric prop motors on the RC market. They are great because they are strong and light (direct drive of a propeller, and have to be light for power to weight on an aircraft). They are not generally made to operate in reverse though. Something to definitely look into. Something like that would not add much weight, nor require crazy amounts of gearing.
The reason I want to control the TCS through the PC is for making something of a "sport" mode, like on the M3 or F430, etc.
It's just cool.
(I usually ask "why would you want to do that?" in regards to all these people putting video and DVD playback on these things. lol) 
07-27-2006, 12:40 PM
#226
Originally Posted by HPP
The 2 switches and single **** shouldn't interfere with that cupholder. I just thought that imprinted ring would make for a great cover for a data port.
Originally Posted by HPP
I don't allow drinks or food or smoking in my car. lol
lol
Originally Posted by HPP
Anyway... I see what you're getting at with the flapper now. There are some strong electric prop motors on the RC market. They are great because they are strong and light (direct drive of a propeller, and have to be light for power to weight on an aircraft). They are not generally made to operate in reverse though. Something to definitely look into. Something like that would not add much weight, nor require crazy amounts of gearing.
Originally Posted by HPP
The reason I want to control the TCS through the PC is for making something of a "sport" mode, like on the M3 or F430, etc.
07-27-2006, 12:45 PM
#227
Originally Posted by rippenhard
okay i just might be old fashioned or something but I think the interior of this car is freakin ridiculous. Its way to "RICER" for me.
07-27-2006, 01:00 PM
#228
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Originally Posted by JasonWW
Yea, 2 switches and a **** would fit fine. That ring is actually a cap that covers the cupholder pivot mechanism so it can't be used for a data port. You could add a USB port just about anywhere, though. No worries there.
How do you get the food and drink home?
(unopened sodas and such are ok. Generally I'm the only one ever in it anyway though. lol)
You need a crazy amount of gearing. The motors spin very fast so you need to move the flap slowly so you can make adjustments. Maybe 4-5 seconds from full hot to full cold should be about right. The crazy gearing is also what is going to hold the flap into position. More gearing makes it hard for the flap to push on the motor, spin it and change position.
With the worm on the motor itself, it could spin gear hooked up to the flap, but the gear would not be able to turn the worm, due to the nature of the direction of the forces.
I think you can forget that. I'm pretty well versed in how the TCS system works and there is no way to make a "sport mode". I wish I could get into the PCM and change some values to make the TCS be less aggressive, but even that is impossible.
So in this case, when navigating the vehicle submenus, press the "Sport" button to disengage the TCS. Just as simple as that.
07-27-2006, 09:28 PM
#229
Originally Posted by HPP
Worm gears.
With the worm on the motor itself, it could spin gear hooked up to the flap, but the gear would not be able to turn the worm, due to the nature of the direction of the forces.
With the worm on the motor itself, it could spin gear hooked up to the flap, but the gear would not be able to turn the worm, due to the nature of the direction of the forces.
Originally Posted by HPP
No, what I meant was to simply turn it on or off. That could be done. It's just a switch. The hard part is getting the PC to external switch output interface working. (much easier to read than control)
So in this case, when navigating the vehicle submenus, press the "Sport" button to disengage the TCS. Just as simple as that.
So in this case, when navigating the vehicle submenus, press the "Sport" button to disengage the TCS. Just as simple as that.
07-27-2006, 11:34 PM
#230
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Originally Posted by JasonWW
Yea, a worm gear would work for holding it in position, but would it move slow enough? You don't want the flap to move too quickly or you won't be able to get the temperature just right. I know in the winter time I start out at full hot, but then set the **** to the 2 o'clock position once the car has warmed up. That's why I was saying the total motor time from hot to cold should be about 4-5 seconds. If you've had experience with worm gears, about how fast do they spin or how much gear reduction can you get?
I didn't have an exact answer, but a quick search turned it up -
Q. Why use a worm gear reducer?
A. A worm gear reducer is a right angle gear solution that allows the maximum speed reduction in the smallest package.
Q. When do you use a helical gear reducer versus a worm gear reducer?
A. Worm gear reducers are used in low to moderate horsepower applications. They offer low initial cost, high ratios, and high output torque in a small package. They have a much higher tolerance for shock loading then helical gear reducers. Helical reducers are used in higher horsepower applications where long-term operational efficiency is more important than initial cost.
Q. How is the ratio determined for a helical gear set? A bevel gear set? A worm gear set?
A. The ratio of a helical or bevel gear set is simply the number of teeth in the larger gear divided by the number of teeth in the smaller gear. For example, a gear set with 36 teeth in the larger gear and 12 teeth in the smaller gear has 3:1 ratio.
The ratio of a worm gear set is the ratio of the number of teeth in the gear to the number of threads (starts or leads) on the worm. For example, a worm with two threads and a mating gear with 60 teeth has a ratio of 30:1.
A. A worm gear reducer is a right angle gear solution that allows the maximum speed reduction in the smallest package.
Q. When do you use a helical gear reducer versus a worm gear reducer?
A. Worm gear reducers are used in low to moderate horsepower applications. They offer low initial cost, high ratios, and high output torque in a small package. They have a much higher tolerance for shock loading then helical gear reducers. Helical reducers are used in higher horsepower applications where long-term operational efficiency is more important than initial cost.
Q. How is the ratio determined for a helical gear set? A bevel gear set? A worm gear set?
A. The ratio of a helical or bevel gear set is simply the number of teeth in the larger gear divided by the number of teeth in the smaller gear. For example, a gear set with 36 teeth in the larger gear and 12 teeth in the smaller gear has 3:1 ratio.
The ratio of a worm gear set is the ratio of the number of teeth in the gear to the number of threads (starts or leads) on the worm. For example, a worm with two threads and a mating gear with 60 teeth has a ratio of 30:1.
Think of a screw turning on the outside of a gear. I know you know what it is, but, if you really think about thread pitch and number of turns of the screw, you see there is a lot of reduction. And a lot of torque too.
You could also vary the power going to the motor to get the right speed. Given the amount of torque in a worm gear set up, you could probably get away with cheapy radio shack motors (the tiny ones). I'm just not sure how long they'd last on limited power input (might not hurt them at all, might kill 'em quick). Electric RC prop motors are designed to be throttled, so they should take the lower power much better, and still be very light for the amount of power they offer. (would be more expensive though).
What's wrong with the switch already in the car? I don't see why you would want to switch it through the PC. What is the point of that? (confused)
Because they can, and because it's cool (to them at least). lol
The skill acquired in accomplishing it could be applied elsewhere, and it could free up the switch, or the switch location too, if I wanted it to.
07-28-2006, 10:53 PM
#232
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Still haven't gotten batteries for the camera (to take pics of the GP HVAC controls) - sorry (only have the one camera and it's a cheap one, without even a plug to plug it into the wall)
I was just out for a couple of quick drives in the WS6 today though. I think the idea of mounting the climate controls in the TCS switch/lighter area, with the vacuum **** being flanked by either 2 rockers or 4 buttons is nearly ideal for the 10.4". However, as you noted, that leaves the problem of defrost, which is what made me bring this up again.
Mount the defrost button over near the hatch button. Actually, it might work up near the light controls, but I know there is definitely room near the hatch button.
Now of course, you don't want to be driving along, notice a fog build up, go to hit the defroster, and open the hatch by mistake. So, enhance it. Either counter sink the hatch button (sorta like Compaq Proliant Server power switches, they are caged so that you can't brush against them and turn them off, you have to get your finger in a hole, meaning you have to want to turn it off), then you can do it by feel. Or.... put a flip cover over it. Like you see in movies for nuclear missile launch buttons or what not. Just put a hinge spring on it to keep it closed, and you're good to go.
I was just out for a couple of quick drives in the WS6 today though. I think the idea of mounting the climate controls in the TCS switch/lighter area, with the vacuum **** being flanked by either 2 rockers or 4 buttons is nearly ideal for the 10.4". However, as you noted, that leaves the problem of defrost, which is what made me bring this up again.
Mount the defrost button over near the hatch button. Actually, it might work up near the light controls, but I know there is definitely room near the hatch button.
Now of course, you don't want to be driving along, notice a fog build up, go to hit the defroster, and open the hatch by mistake. So, enhance it. Either counter sink the hatch button (sorta like Compaq Proliant Server power switches, they are caged so that you can't brush against them and turn them off, you have to get your finger in a hole, meaning you have to want to turn it off), then you can do it by feel. Or.... put a flip cover over it. Like you see in movies for nuclear missile launch buttons or what not. Just put a hinge spring on it to keep it closed, and you're good to go.
07-29-2006, 09:03 AM
#233
Well, in my search for a LCD panel, it seems the Albright 10.4" may not fit as it has a large border around the LCD panel. I know where to get a transflective, but it may run me $800 with no touchscreen. I don't really want to spend that much. I'm going to try the Lilliput 10.4" ($300) and take it apart and see how big the border is around the LCD panel. If it's fairly thin, I might be able to fit it in there.
On the offhand chance it won't fit, I'm screwed. Zenarc does make a 10.4", but it's around $600. I'll have to contact them to see what panel they are using. I'm waiting for Lilliput to get back to me on that as well. Neither company may want to say what panel they are using, though. Has anyone ran across any other 10.4"screens?
If I could find an 8 or 9 inch widescreen I believe they would fit. It would fill the width while still leaving some room below for a slot drive DVD or USB ports, etc... I just haven't seen any high resolution 8 or 9 inchers, though. Anyone else seen any?
I hate the idea that I may have to use a common 7" widescreen.
EDIT: I just saw that MP3car.com is now carrying an 8" widescreen for about $260. Specs look OK, so this may be my backup monitor if I can't find a 10.4".
On the offhand chance it won't fit, I'm screwed. Zenarc does make a 10.4", but it's around $600. I'll have to contact them to see what panel they are using. I'm waiting for Lilliput to get back to me on that as well. Neither company may want to say what panel they are using, though. Has anyone ran across any other 10.4"screens?
If I could find an 8 or 9 inch widescreen I believe they would fit. It would fill the width while still leaving some room below for a slot drive DVD or USB ports, etc... I just haven't seen any high resolution 8 or 9 inchers, though. Anyone else seen any?
I hate the idea that I may have to use a common 7" widescreen.
EDIT: I just saw that MP3car.com is now carrying an 8" widescreen for about $260. Specs look OK, so this may be my backup monitor if I can't find a 10.4".
Last edited by JasonWW; 07-29-2006 at 09:14 AM.
07-29-2006, 10:34 AM
#235
Originally Posted by HPP
What screen did Bernhard use?
Here is a conversation I had with him about it.
Me:
Can you share a few more details about your screen?
It is from a laptop, correct?
A Sharp LQ10S21. Then you bought a "Digital View LTD - Data Display - Rainbow II" controller?
Did you add a touchscreen to it?
If not, how do you control your system, the trackball?
Can you share a few more details about your screen?
It is from a laptop, correct?
A Sharp LQ10S21. Then you bought a "Digital View LTD - Data Display - Rainbow II" controller?
Did you add a touchscreen to it?
If not, how do you control your system, the trackball?
Bernhard:
Well, i bought many TFTs from ebay, but I never got the right size of it. There were many older models with a bigger border, ... so I bought a new set from a firm, which sells industrial TFTs.
Well ... at first i had a Trackball, but now, I bought from this firm a 10,4" Touch glas. You can buy this for every TFT size, ... its a 1mm thin glas wiht USB or RS232. I took the USB Version.
It works fantastic! You can do everything with it, with a virtual keyboard, you don't need a normal keyboard.
Well, i bought many TFTs from ebay, but I never got the right size of it. There were many older models with a bigger border, ... so I bought a new set from a firm, which sells industrial TFTs.
Well ... at first i had a Trackball, but now, I bought from this firm a 10,4" Touch glas. You can buy this for every TFT size, ... its a 1mm thin glas wiht USB or RS232. I took the USB Version.
It works fantastic! You can do everything with it, with a virtual keyboard, you don't need a normal keyboard.
The thread is here.
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=33407
07-30-2006, 09:11 PM
#236
Someone just reminded me about mounting the A/C controls in the armrest. Since (I think) I know how to extend the cable it would be fairly easy to do. I kind of don't like that location because it's hard to see and reach into, but it may be my backup location if I can't get the controls into the cig lighter area.
What do you guys think about the armrest location?
What do you guys think about the armrest location?
08-01-2006, 09:22 AM
#237
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You're right, it's awkward to see and reach. On that basis alone I'd think it's not very good.
Plus it means losing storage space. Personally, I make lots of use of the armrest cubby. Guess it started with my 3rd Gens that only had the pouch rahter than a real glove box, the armrest was the only place to put stuff. But even with my Grand Prix, which does have a real glove box, I just find the arm rest to be easier to get to. Put the manual and registration stuff in the glove box, and everything else in the armrest. Same for the Trans Am.
So, occupying space in either location is not an option for me, just on practicality.
But I also think it has the wrong look about it too. It *looks* like it's something someone did on their own after purchase. Kinda homebrew.
I went for a ride in a friends car on Friday night. He has a Nissan Silvia (S14), and his controls are quite nice. Push buttons for all the modes (I would imagine they are vacuum based as well), a slider for the temp, and a **** for the fan speed. Much more compact, and very nice looking. Some LED changes and it would fit right in.
That might be an option to look into, but I think the idea of 1 **** surrounded by either 2 rockers or 4 buttons still is the best option. For size, placement options, and looks. The only difficulty would be in getting the mechanical aspect of the buttons to work for the fan speed. Need to rip apart a Grand Prix module to see how it works. Unfortunately I can't pull mine apart.
Plus it means losing storage space. Personally, I make lots of use of the armrest cubby. Guess it started with my 3rd Gens that only had the pouch rahter than a real glove box, the armrest was the only place to put stuff. But even with my Grand Prix, which does have a real glove box, I just find the arm rest to be easier to get to. Put the manual and registration stuff in the glove box, and everything else in the armrest. Same for the Trans Am.
So, occupying space in either location is not an option for me, just on practicality.
But I also think it has the wrong look about it too. It *looks* like it's something someone did on their own after purchase. Kinda homebrew.
I went for a ride in a friends car on Friday night. He has a Nissan Silvia (S14), and his controls are quite nice. Push buttons for all the modes (I would imagine they are vacuum based as well), a slider for the temp, and a **** for the fan speed. Much more compact, and very nice looking. Some LED changes and it would fit right in.
That might be an option to look into, but I think the idea of 1 **** surrounded by either 2 rockers or 4 buttons still is the best option. For size, placement options, and looks. The only difficulty would be in getting the mechanical aspect of the buttons to work for the fan speed. Need to rip apart a Grand Prix module to see how it works. Unfortunately I can't pull mine apart.
08-01-2006, 10:18 AM
#238
It is possible to put the controls in the glove box without losing hardly any space. Take a look at Snootches setup.
Although not the prettiest, it can be made to look nicer and it still leaves a lot of room in there.
I just don't like having to reach over and open the door everytime. I know it's not something you would do HPP, but it seemed as if you thought it took up the whole glove box. It doesn't have to.
Although not the prettiest, it can be made to look nicer and it still leaves a lot of room in there.
I just don't like having to reach over and open the door everytime. I know it's not something you would do HPP, but it seemed as if you thought it took up the whole glove box. It doesn't have to.
08-01-2006, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by JasonWW
What? Did he import it or rebadge a local car?
Nissan of America was down at the docks when the Silvia first came over, peeling off badges and replacing them with a number because they thought a car named "Silvia" would not sell.
But they screwed things up by taking the 180 and calling it a 240SX as well. AND they took S13 Silvia's and put 180 front ends on them and called *them* 240's too.
Granted, they are all the same chassis and blood line (S13 came in Silvia form - standard coupe with exposed lights, or 180 form - hatchback with flip up lights), but calling them all 240SX with no differentiation is just a cluster ****.
So anyway, his 98 "240" is indeed just a Silvia with left hand drive and a US spec engine, which is bigger than the Qs engine, making it almost an naturally aspirated Ks (in a sense).