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Bought a vert sub box from JBSlim, now how do I wire it?

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Old 03-03-2006, 03:36 PM
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Default Bought a vert sub box from JBSlim, now how do I wire it?

As the title says I bought a sub box for my 2000 SS vert from JBSlim and I'm curious how to wire it into my stock Monsoon system. He suggested I ask here as several have done this. I want to add it into the stock system; what do I need to do this? Thanks,

Josh
Old 03-03-2006, 06:06 PM
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I haven't heard of using the stock monsoon amp to run a added sub...the monsoon only puts out under 50 watts rms...Guess you could run the wires from the sailpanel to the sub, but wouldn't think it would sound good since it would be underpowered.
Old 03-03-2006, 06:31 PM
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I suggest you save for an aftermarket amplifier. Distortion will lead to extra heat in the sub which will lead to failure.
Old 03-03-2006, 06:35 PM
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I should have been clearer, I'm going to amp the subs. I'm told I'll need a line level convertor to hook into the rear speaker channel.
Old 03-03-2006, 07:10 PM
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Run the level converter off the back of the headunit and run some rca's to the amp. Is the best way...you could run high level inputs to the amp, but I have never had good results.
Old 03-04-2006, 12:23 AM
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Best way is to use a line level converter from the h/u to your amp as mentioned. PAC makes a special one.

But the output quality of the monsoon really isn't that good. For not much more than the cost of the line level converter you could get into a basic MP3 deck and just use standard RCA's.

fyi the "stock" volume of .18 cuft is tuned to about 200 Hz with the ports as you got the box. You can add some 1x4 "plates" to turn the slot ports into a slotted port of about 5" long. Makes the box drop to 80hz or so, big difference.
Old 03-04-2006, 09:46 AM
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I'm thinking I may just scrap the whole monsoon system period. I had wanted to stay with a stock appearance for theft deterrence but this thing is a pita... I'm not really following your "slot" stuff about Slim's box by the way.
Old 03-04-2006, 10:32 AM
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The ports on slim's box aren't really ports at all. There are just slot openings in the back of the box behind each driver.

This effectively makes the port only as long as the thickness of the wood. For proper tuning this "port" is too big (cross section) and too short (<1").

The idea is adding wood to the box to make actual ports. By extending the "port" all the way up to the back of the woofer magnet, and reducing the cross section, it is possible to get down to about 80Hz.

This is much better than the original design which is actually tuned to about 200hz, too high.

If you are going to hit the subs at all, make sure to use an amp with a subsonic filter. With a tuning frequency this high you should really limit the input below the box tuning frequency.
Old 03-04-2006, 02:00 PM
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Alright, thanks for the advice. If you don't mind I'll also send you a pm when I get the box as to how you think I should go about adding pieces to it.
Old 03-05-2006, 11:13 PM
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Once it decides to warm up in Michigan here, I hope to get the modified box back in my car along with some other experiments to keep the top a little off the shelf.

For now I've only worked with the box in my trailblazer and know the tuning statements are true. Once I can get it completely dialed in I intend to post a full summary.

There are a number of different ways to tune the box, the main problem is getting some sort of port defined within the space to get the port frequency down. With my woofers the limit was about 60-80 Hz.

Tks.




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