wiring idea's?
04-24-2006, 09:41 PM
#1
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wiring idea's? im looking for some idea's on fixing all the power wire's under my dash for my guage's,shift light,nx.....
is there somthing like a distrubution block to tie everything togther?i dont feal like its too safe with all the power's tied into one wire.what if i run a thick wire from the battery and wire in a relay?maybe half my power wires on one wire?
does this make sense?
is there somthing like a distrubution block to tie everything togther?i dont feal like its too safe with all the power's tied into one wire.what if i run a thick wire from the battery and wire in a relay?maybe half my power wires on one wire?
does this make sense?
04-26-2006, 07:29 AM
#3
This is a common problem for installation of additional lighting and other accessories on motorcycles. So there is a solution on the motorcycle aftermarket. It's a power distribution block with a large gauge battery input wire and a relay to switch the output terminals on and off with the ignition. It can handle up to 30 amps total on six accessory circuits. Check it out at The Electrical Connection. (Go with the universal model since the others are made to fit specific motorcycles.)
04-26-2006, 08:43 PM
#4
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
This is a common problem for installation of additional lighting and other accessories on motorcycles. So there is a solution on the motorcycle aftermarket. It's a power distribution block with a large gauge battery input wire and a relay to switch the output terminals on and off with the ignition. It can handle up to 30 amps total on six accessory circuits. Check it out at The Electrical Connection. (Go with the universal model since the others are made to fit specific motorcycles.)
04-27-2006, 07:06 AM
#5
Originally Posted by weaponZ
that's exactly what i had in mind,but for 44.00's i might be able to peice one togather cheaper.thanks
05-20-2006, 09:16 AM
#6
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any other option's?im ready to order.
does summit offer any simulor kits?
i found this kit
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
can i use it and just wire in a relay and power wire?
does summit offer any simulor kits?
i found this kit
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
can i use it and just wire in a relay and power wire?
Last edited by weaponZ; 05-20-2006 at 09:31 AM.
05-21-2006, 06:46 PM
#7
That's not really what you're looking for. That kit is just a junction block without fuses. It would provide a central connection point but you'd still have to have separate inline fuses for each circuit you attach. A fuse block would give you a single power feed with fuses and connections for each accessory circuit.
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05-22-2006, 10:10 PM
#8
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
That's not really what you're looking for. That kit is just a junction block without fuses. It would provide a central connection point but you'd still have to have separate inline fuses for each circuit you attach. A fuse block would give you a single power feed with fuses and connections for each accessory circuit.
05-23-2006, 06:57 AM
#9
Well, yes. There are a couple of reasons you'll want separate fuses for each of your accessory circuits. First, if something goes wrong with one of them then it will blow the fuse for that circuit but your other accessories will continue to work (plus it will be easier to troubleshoot the problem knowing which circuit blew a fuse). Second, in order to run all the accessories off a single fuse you would have to use a larger fuse to handle the load. That larger fuse would not blow as quickly as individual smaller fuses would, leading to a potential hazard.
You could accomplish the same thing using the junction block and individual inline fuses for the accessories but then you don't have all the fuses in a single place for easy access.
You could accomplish the same thing using the junction block and individual inline fuses for the accessories but then you don't have all the fuses in a single place for easy access.
05-30-2006, 06:43 PM
#11
Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
Yes, you can buy a fuse block from an auto parts store for under $10. Then you can add your own heavy gauge feed wire and run it through a 30 amp standard relay to make it ignition-switched power. Those fuse panels are bulkier than the motorcycle setup but there should be plenty of room behind the dash to put it.
Last edited by 99blancoSS; 05-30-2006 at 06:50 PM.
05-30-2006, 08:18 PM
#12
Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
How does that work? IF you want it to be switched power how does the relay make it switched if its wired direct to the battery? I'm very interested in this as well as I have a few connections to makw :n2o pressure guage, line lock, which I was just going to attach to the n2o window switch power feed. But I like the idea of having a small block under switched power. Just not sure how the relay works.
So, you connect your power source (battery) to one of the switched terminals and the accessory to the other one. Then you connect an ignition-switched power source to one of the coil terminals and the other one to ground. There is always power on the battery side but it doesn't get to the accessory until the relay is energized. When you turn on the ignition, power flows through the relay coil to ground and energizes the coil to close the switch. Now power can flow from the battery through the relay to the accessory. Basically you've taken a high current constant (battery) power supply and made it ignition-controlled using a low current ignition source to control the relay.
05-31-2006, 12:28 PM
#13
Which ignition control wire should I choose? Color of the wire and location would be nice as well ..lol I'm going to get the parts right now. Just finished installing the line lock controls and soldeing that alll together. Those little switches in that SJM kit work out real nice.
05-31-2006, 01:43 PM
#15
Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
Ok heres a question. Why not just use the ign slot in the fuse box to power the added fuse block ? That eliminates the need for a relay correct?
05-31-2006, 01:55 PM
#16
Ahhhhh, the fuseable link. I was wondering if it was protected anywhere at all. I just need enough to run my nitrous gauge, n2o window switch and line lock. I'll add up the value of the fuses supplied in their install kits and post back. I dont want to fek stuff up, just make a nice clean install of everything instead of spaghetti. Other wise what wire shouild I tap for a relay if I go that route instead?
05-31-2006, 02:25 PM
#17
Ok, found a couple things out. First the new n2o window switch runs off a 60amp relay.
Second the line lock has a 5 amp fuse.
Third the electric n2o gauge isnt fused and runs off a switched 12v power source.
Can I run all these things off the IGN?
I know the relay will draw its power from the battery feed but its needs a 12v switched connection as well right? (to turn it on?).
So my draw for all three of those should be pretty minimal but I'm not sure how much it is? How big of a wire will I need to run to the IGN on the fuse box?
OR should I do it differently?
Second the line lock has a 5 amp fuse.
Third the electric n2o gauge isnt fused and runs off a switched 12v power source.
Can I run all these things off the IGN?
I know the relay will draw its power from the battery feed but its needs a 12v switched connection as well right? (to turn it on?).
So my draw for all three of those should be pretty minimal but I'm not sure how much it is? How big of a wire will I need to run to the IGN on the fuse box?
OR should I do it differently?
05-31-2006, 04:18 PM
#18
You can do it using an ignition-switched feed from the fuse panel. We know the line lock takes 5 amps or less. The coil side of the N2O window switch relay will draw one amp or less to energize the relay. The big question is the gauge but I expect that 5 amps would be more than enough. You could run a 16 gauge wire from the fuse panel with a 15 amp inline fuse and not have to worry about overloading the circuit.
