Best placement of Dynamat?
05-23-2006, 01:48 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by wickedwarlock
my comment was directed to 99, see above. 
But I am with ya. My console has to be dynomatted, the only thing I didn't do. So when the radio is off, I can hear it. Rofl
But I am with ya. My console has to be dynomatted, the only thing I didn't do. So when the radio is off, I can hear it. Rofl
My other ramblings were for 99 as well, I did tons of research before I got what I did. The no. 1 complaint about Dynamat was price. If you shop on the net, like already said, you can get it fairly cheap and not have to do 20 coats to get the sound reduction you want.
05-23-2006, 06:49 PM
#22
1 box does how much square footage for $100? 36 sq ft. I paid $60 for 62 sq ft of raamat. My car took 3-4 rolls of raamatt. You do the math. I still have less money into my sound deadening with my 3 steps than if I did it all in dynamat extreme and I'll gaurantee its just as good if not a little better. Have you looked into Second Skin at all? As far as regular dynomat goes it doesn't compare anymore and thats why they have the extreme now. Thicker is better but not at $100/36 sq ft. 36sq ft will cover the inside of one door panel and thats it. It wont do the whole door just the inside part where the window track is. Then you need more to do the outside part. The doors are fiberglass. They need as much matt as you can put on them. The wells in the back of the Camaro are an un-godly amount of sq ft as well. I used 62 sq ft back there alone. And no I didnt use multiple layers. I used one layer of Spectrum and one layer of raamatt and one layer of ensolite foam. If you researched as much as you think you did then you would know that sound waves react different to all materials. I used 3 different steps on purpose. It wasnt just about money saving, it was about doing the best job for the money.
How much money do you have to spend on sound deadening is the question and how much work do you want to put in?
As far as my car you can check out the link and see what I did. And I didnt leave out the console.
How much money do you have to spend on sound deadening is the question and how much work do you want to put in?
As far as my car you can check out the link and see what I did. And I didnt leave out the console.
Last edited by 99blancoSS; 05-23-2006 at 06:55 PM.
05-23-2006, 07:17 PM
#23
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yes, dynamat original is an entry level product that is easily outperformed by many upper end deadeners. But when we are discussing high performance sound deadening, I always assume (perhaps incorrectly) that when someone says dynamat, they mean extreme.
36 sq ft for one door skin is a tad overkill. The 36 sq ft bulk pack has 9 sheets, and 1 sheet is enough to cover a good bit of the door skin, 2 gives nearly complete coverage, while 3 should leave no visible SMC left . Obviously, if you want to double up or tripple up on your layers, you will use more of the pack.
I've never used second skin, nor do I have a desire to. I realize there are plenty of brands of equipment and supplies for car audio available, and everyone chooses what meets their needs. As a avid enthusiast and car audio competitor, I choose my products not only based on their performance, but based on the company that stands behind them. As long as Dynamat supports car audio competitions and shows and helps to give me a place to play, that is where my money and support will go. Granted, that is just my personal view, and I don't think that it's going to influence many others to switch from their loyal brands.
I've dealt with Rick and Rammat in another fbody I did and install for, where the owner wanted a better value for his money. So I can give a direct comparison of rammat to dynamat. Layer for layer, I feel dynamat is a better product. It's thicker, stickier, and is more resistant to peeling off then the rammat was. Rammat is still a good product, probably better then most others out there in it's price range, and would not hesitate to recommend it to some one. But to say it's better then dynamat is not an accurate statement in my opinion.
And that's just it, my opinion... religion, politics, and favorite car audio brands some things you just can't change.
mike
36 sq ft for one door skin is a tad overkill. The 36 sq ft bulk pack has 9 sheets, and 1 sheet is enough to cover a good bit of the door skin, 2 gives nearly complete coverage, while 3 should leave no visible SMC left
. Obviously, if you want to double up or tripple up on your layers, you will use more of the pack.I've never used second skin, nor do I have a desire to. I realize there are plenty of brands of equipment and supplies for car audio available, and everyone chooses what meets their needs. As a avid enthusiast and car audio competitor, I choose my products not only based on their performance, but based on the company that stands behind them. As long as Dynamat supports car audio competitions and shows and helps to give me a place to play, that is where my money and support will go. Granted, that is just my personal view, and I don't think that it's going to influence many others to switch from their loyal brands.
I've dealt with Rick and Rammat in another fbody I did and install for, where the owner wanted a better value for his money. So I can give a direct comparison of rammat to dynamat. Layer for layer, I feel dynamat is a better product. It's thicker, stickier, and is more resistant to peeling off then the rammat was. Rammat is still a good product, probably better then most others out there in it's price range, and would not hesitate to recommend it to some one. But to say it's better then dynamat is not an accurate statement in my opinion.
And that's just it, my opinion... religion, politics, and favorite car audio brands
some things you just can't change.mike
05-23-2006, 09:53 PM
#24
When was the last time you used it? Rick (Raamat owner) an audiophile and audio champion, wanted something better for less money than dynamat so he developed Raamat. He changed the formula and supplier a few times always trying to get the best product for the least money. He now has a great product for half of what dmx cost. You wont see his name printed on the foil( it only adds cost to the final product) but you will get a great deal on a product deleveloped by an audiophile for audiophiles.
Cost wise the dm extreme is twice as much money. If you have $600-$800 to drop on matting then you do it. But to say its the only thing to use if you want to do it right is innaccurate. Its like saying the only way to make power is to buy afr heads. Your looking at 80-140 sq ft for an fbody for one layer. My door example isnt that far off and you know it. If your going to take the panel off you might as well do the door correctly. This isnt rocket science. All a person need do is take a tape measure and measure it out. How much you overlap is personal choice. I did every nook and cranny. I had the entire interior out to bare metal and took my time. I didnt double up layers on anything, I covered everything. I'm not trying to convince you to switch brands. You want to use dm extreme exclusively I could care less. But unless you look at the Second Skin line of liquid dampeners your not really informed as to the latest advances in the field. I know the dm extreme is great for you. For $100/36 sq ft not including delivery, it ought to be. I'm saying for less money you can acheive comparable if not better results by combining Second Skin and Raamat for less money than dm extreme. Thats all.
I have a peice of dynamat extreme in my hands and a peice of raamat The foil is thicker on the dynamat extreme but thats it. The foil on the raamat is 2 mil the foil on the dm is 3 mil. ( asked Rick about that) Thinner foil makes it easier to work with if you ask me. As far as the butyl goes I really cant tell if the DMX is thicker but I know by the product claim it supposed to be. As far as one being sticker than the other I dont think so. The Raamat forms easier so it seems to stick better but the dynamat has thicker foil so it takes more pressure to adhere it giving the allusion of being not as sticky but honestly they're both butyl based. There really isnt a difference. The stuff sticks like roofing tar. Informed people make informed decisions. I'm providing facts and information as well as opinion.
on a side note
I actualy started using a petroleum based solution in the early 80's in my 72 chevellle for sounds deadening. I had some material from my dad shops to put over the top of it. I brushed it on the floor boards and then covered it with a stiff shoe making material. It worked ok but took a little bit for the smell to go away. I think I used some kind of roofing asphalt cement. I was 18 and experimenting. True story. The guy who bought the car when I blew the motor hated me for it. He wanted to restore it completely and it took him forever to clean the goop out. I asked him why he took it back down to bare metal when it didnt have any rust and wasnt going to rust with what I did. He just looked at me weird. Anyhoo... what I'm saying here is advancements are made all the time. If you dont know about them you cant advance with them.
Cost wise the dm extreme is twice as much money. If you have $600-$800 to drop on matting then you do it. But to say its the only thing to use if you want to do it right is innaccurate. Its like saying the only way to make power is to buy afr heads. Your looking at 80-140 sq ft for an fbody for one layer. My door example isnt that far off and you know it. If your going to take the panel off you might as well do the door correctly. This isnt rocket science. All a person need do is take a tape measure and measure it out. How much you overlap is personal choice. I did every nook and cranny. I had the entire interior out to bare metal and took my time. I didnt double up layers on anything, I covered everything. I'm not trying to convince you to switch brands. You want to use dm extreme exclusively I could care less. But unless you look at the Second Skin line of liquid dampeners your not really informed as to the latest advances in the field. I know the dm extreme is great for you. For $100/36 sq ft not including delivery, it ought to be. I'm saying for less money you can acheive comparable if not better results by combining Second Skin and Raamat for less money than dm extreme. Thats all.
I have a peice of dynamat extreme in my hands and a peice of raamat The foil is thicker on the dynamat extreme but thats it. The foil on the raamat is 2 mil the foil on the dm is 3 mil. ( asked Rick about that) Thinner foil makes it easier to work with if you ask me. As far as the butyl goes I really cant tell if the DMX is thicker but I know by the product claim it supposed to be. As far as one being sticker than the other I dont think so. The Raamat forms easier so it seems to stick better but the dynamat has thicker foil so it takes more pressure to adhere it giving the allusion of being not as sticky but honestly they're both butyl based. There really isnt a difference. The stuff sticks like roofing tar. Informed people make informed decisions. I'm providing facts and information as well as opinion.
on a side note
I actualy started using a petroleum based solution in the early 80's in my 72 chevellle for sounds deadening. I had some material from my dad shops to put over the top of it. I brushed it on the floor boards and then covered it with a stiff shoe making material. It worked ok but took a little bit for the smell to go away. I think I used some kind of roofing asphalt cement. I was 18 and experimenting. True story. The guy who bought the car when I blew the motor hated me for it. He wanted to restore it completely and it took him forever to clean the goop out. I asked him why he took it back down to bare metal when it didnt have any rust and wasnt going to rust with what I did. He just looked at me weird. Anyhoo... what I'm saying here is advancements are made all the time. If you dont know about them you cant advance with them.
Last edited by 99blancoSS; 05-23-2006 at 11:47 PM.
05-24-2006, 05:31 AM
#25
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sound deadening sticky mats, liquid sound deadening...
what about the spray-on stuff? i've heard thats supposed to work awesome, and is much easier to apply? not really sure of the company that makes spray-on deadening..just heard rumors that the spray can is a really good way to go. apparently dynomat is pretty tough to remove later on?
what about the spray-on stuff? i've heard thats supposed to work awesome, and is much easier to apply? not really sure of the company that makes spray-on deadening..just heard rumors that the spray can is a really good way to go. apparently dynomat is pretty tough to remove later on?
05-24-2006, 06:15 AM
#26
Originally Posted by WhiteRhino
I'm with stupid means I was agreeing with you, as well as Mike@fbody I just didnt feeling like quoting both of you..
My other ramblings were for 99 as well, I did tons of research before I got what I did. The no. 1 complaint about Dynamat was price. If you shop on the net, like already said, you can get it fairly cheap and not have to do 20 coats to get the sound reduction you want.
My other ramblings were for 99 as well, I did tons of research before I got what I did. The no. 1 complaint about Dynamat was price. If you shop on the net, like already said, you can get it fairly cheap and not have to do 20 coats to get the sound reduction you want.
for agreeing and 
when they are either confused or being sarcastic. But I'm glad you clarified.
05-24-2006, 06:18 AM
#27
Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
1 box does how much square footage for $100? 36 sq ft. I paid $60 for 62 sq ft of raamat. My car took 3-4 rolls of raamatt. You do the math. I still have less money into my sound deadening with my 3 steps than if I did it all in dynamat extreme and I'll gaurantee its just as good if not a little better. Have you looked into Second Skin at all? As far as regular dynomat goes it doesn't compare anymore and thats why they have the extreme now. Thicker is better but not at $100/36 sq ft. 36sq ft will cover the inside of one door panel and thats it. It wont do the whole door just the inside part where the window track is. Then you need more to do the outside part. The doors are fiberglass. They need as much matt as you can put on them. The wells in the back of the Camaro are an un-godly amount of sq ft as well. I used 62 sq ft back there alone. And no I didnt use multiple layers. I used one layer of Spectrum and one layer of raamatt and one layer of ensolite foam. If you researched as much as you think you did then you would know that sound waves react different to all materials. I used 3 different steps on purpose. It wasnt just about money saving, it was about doing the best job for the money.
How much money do you have to spend on sound deadening is the question and how much work do you want to put in?
As far as my car you can check out the link and see what I did. And I didnt leave out the console.
How much money do you have to spend on sound deadening is the question and how much work do you want to put in?
As far as my car you can check out the link and see what I did. And I didnt leave out the console.
I agree mike, I too assume when they say dynomat, they are working with the extreme and not the standard stuff.
05-24-2006, 09:33 AM
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flat head screw driver, inserted into the small slot at the bottom of the coat hanger insert (the inner square). Use the screw driver to pry that inner square insert out as far as you can, then the entire coat hanger part will pull out.
Also need to remove the ttop trim piece at the top, and the rear trim pieces first. Then the entire sail panel will pull out (it's velcro'd in some spots, just give it a gentle tug).
Also need to remove the ttop trim piece at the top, and the rear trim pieces first. Then the entire sail panel will pull out (it's velcro'd in some spots, just give it a gentle tug).
05-24-2006, 09:36 AM
#30
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BTTM. . .flattip screwdriver in the little slot, then again behind that little tab that comes out. Pull the first insert out and then the hanger pops right out.
be careful if you've got t-tops and pull the tab at the back of the t-top off before trying to remove the sail panel trim(two phillips screws). Don't know about everyone else, but I use duct tape to hold that damned styrofoam arm brace in place when I'm ready to reinstall everything.
Duff
be careful if you've got t-tops and pull the tab at the back of the t-top off before trying to remove the sail panel trim(two phillips screws). Don't know about everyone else, but I use duct tape to hold that damned styrofoam arm brace in place when I'm ready to reinstall everything.
Duff
05-24-2006, 11:17 AM
#31
Originally Posted by camaroguy_02
sound deadening sticky mats, liquid sound deadening...
what about the spray-on stuff? i've heard thats supposed to work awesome, and is much easier to apply? not really sure of the company that makes spray-on deadening..just heard rumors that the spray can is a really good way to go. apparently dynomat is pretty tough to remove later on?
what about the spray-on stuff? i've heard thats supposed to work awesome, and is much easier to apply? not really sure of the company that makes spray-on deadening..just heard rumors that the spray can is a really good way to go. apparently dynomat is pretty tough to remove later on?
05-24-2006, 11:17 AM
#32
Originally Posted by Duffster
BTTM. . .flattip screwdriver in the little slot, then again behind that little tab that comes out. Pull the first insert out and then the hanger pops right out.
be careful if you've got t-tops and pull the tab at the back of the t-top off before trying to remove the sail panel trim(two phillips screws). Don't know about everyone else, but I use duct tape to hold that damned styrofoam arm brace in place when I'm ready to reinstall everything.
Duff
be careful if you've got t-tops and pull the tab at the back of the t-top off before trying to remove the sail panel trim(two phillips screws). Don't know about everyone else, but I use duct tape to hold that damned styrofoam arm brace in place when I'm ready to reinstall everything.
Duff
