WTF Now?
WTF Now? Ok i have a kicker mono amp on a L7 10 in a stealth. Well the 10 starting crapping out so i sent it back for a replacement. I capped the ends of the power cables from the amp bc they were supposed to have me a replacement in a matter of a couple days and i dont drive the car alot. Well i waited forever for it and it came today. All along ive seen my green amp light(power indicator light) cutting on and off with the key like normal and tonight i stick the speaker back in the box, turn the key, no amp. It doesnt cut on at all. I pulled the speaker to double check that i had the coils wired right and the +/- right and of course they are. Checked the amp power wire and fuse, checked the ground. The remote wire is firmly in place on the amp, the amp fuses are fine. Also checked most of my fuses under the hood that would have had anything to do with it. Why the hell is this thing not cutting on now?
Originally Posted by Z28LS1camaroguy
amp prolly took a **** on you, might try and see if your amp is blown.
I would get out a meter and check the speaker just in case. Than check the to make sure the amp is getting power.
Amp has gotta be missing power somehow. They are both brand new and the amp worked fine without a speaker a couple days ago. I guess ill try to retrace the +/- and remotes to make sure they are good to go..
go to the store and spend $10 on a multimeter. makes things like this super easy to troubleshoot.
check for 12v at the amps positive terminal and ground, and then check for 12v at the amps remote turn on terminal and ground. report back with the results.
mike
mike
check for 12v at the amps positive terminal and ground, and then check for 12v at the amps remote turn on terminal and ground. report back with the results.
mike
mike
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Verdad Gallardo ok, take your test light.
with car off, radio off, connect the test light across the positive and negative power inputs of the amp. Does it light ? If so, move on. If not, check under hood fuse and connection to battery. Also check ground cable.
With radio on, connect test light across the remote turn on terminal and the negative power input of the amp. If it does not light, verify connection at head unit. If the connection is good, most likely, your head unit will need to be replaced.
If it lights up, then the amp is probably bad.
I doubt your tail light is anything more then a coincedence.
mike
with car off, radio off, connect the test light across the positive and negative power inputs of the amp. Does it light ? If so, move on. If not, check under hood fuse and connection to battery. Also check ground cable.
With radio on, connect test light across the remote turn on terminal and the negative power input of the amp. If it does not light, verify connection at head unit. If the connection is good, most likely, your head unit will need to be replaced.
If it lights up, then the amp is probably bad.
I doubt your tail light is anything more then a coincedence.
mike
Ok found the light tested with radio off and got nothing. radio on i tested the - and remote and got light. tested + and remote and it flickered a little and the red amp protection light came on for a second. I pulled the deck out and all the wires were fine. I previously pulled out and looked at my power cable fuse by the battery and it looks perfect... Well i tested the end of the cable before the fuse and its hot, tested the piece behind the fuse and nothing. The fuse looks perfect and should have no reason not to work, its weird anyone ever had a fuse just not work out of the blue and not be blown???? It worked for 2 weeks before the sub went bad lol..
yep, could be the fuse blew on the end where it's not visible. replace the fuse and see what happens.
Also, when testing and + terminal, such as the amp's main power, or the remote turn on, always put the other terminals of the test light to ground. This is where a multimeter is better, because if you go across 2 terminals that you shouldn't, the likely hood of something bad happening is much lower, as you are not actually driving a load like test light does. That's wmy almost all auto manufacturers now recommend against using test lights in cars that have computer controls.
mike
Also, when testing and + terminal, such as the amp's main power, or the remote turn on, always put the other terminals of the test light to ground. This is where a multimeter is better, because if you go across 2 terminals that you shouldn't, the likely hood of something bad happening is much lower, as you are not actually driving a load like test light does. That's wmy almost all auto manufacturers now recommend against using test lights in cars that have computer controls.
mike
I got my light test on last night and checked before and after the fuse and thats what it was, appeared to be flawless but wasnt making a connection so i picked one up today and its all good. Thanks alot everyone especially you mike!
one problem I had with my kicker was I had to small of a fuse and it would cut in and out for no reason it seemed. the fuse never blow but it wouldn't allow enough juice to get to the amp. replace teh fuse with a 150watt and it work's great. my buddy has my old fuse on his amp and it works good for him but his is much smaller.
I never even thought about it, i should have pulled the fuse when the sub went bad. It works fine now, im breaking in the sub to keep from frying this one like the other LOL. Need a little more airspace for it, the stealths are the minimum recommended sealed volume for the sub. Being as the box is small should i avoid lower freq? Like stick to 40+? I had a couple rap CDs that had really low bass 30/35 cycles that the speaker basically couldnt really replicate and i wonder if that had a part in it going bad? How integral is breaking it in? Any suggestions? I heard play it at 25% for a week then gradually go up to your prefered level over a few days. I mostly listen to rock but like to have some serious ear pounding from time to time 
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Austin, Texas
I still think that the "break in" period is a bunch of crap...
even on a car, a lot of mechanics will tell you it really doesn't matter... especially on a brand-new car
to answer your question... it's possible that if you have enough power going to your stealthbox woofer, that yes, you can burn it up playing low bass... the woofer is hardly moving, which means it's not cooling off the voicecoil....
even on a car, a lot of mechanics will tell you it really doesn't matter... especially on a brand-new car
to answer your question... it's possible that if you have enough power going to your stealthbox woofer, that yes, you can burn it up playing low bass... the woofer is hardly moving, which means it's not cooling off the voicecoil....
