distribution block will it need fuses?
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,378
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From: Atlanta, GA Ft. Walton Beach, FL
distribution block will it need fuses or is just a T good enought? planning a second amp and would prefer not to run another power cable from battery to amp so I need a distribution block right?
should this block be fused or is the big fuse close to battery good enought protection?
only planning 2 amps not sure about other stuff like a capsistor ?if I get a capasistor will it connect though one of these blocks?
http://www.cardomain.com/item/STISTEE4PT
using 4 guage so I'll need 4 guage to 4 guage right?
Thanks
should this block be fused or is the big fuse close to battery good enought protection?
only planning 2 amps not sure about other stuff like a capsistor ?if I get a capasistor will it connect though one of these blocks?
http://www.cardomain.com/item/STISTEE4PT
using 4 guage so I'll need 4 guage to 4 guage right?
Thanks
Last edited by badmfkr; Aug 6, 2006 at 05:25 PM.
Yes you need a dist. block. I run two 425w. amps off of the main fuse with no problems. The capacitor goes inline with your main cable before the block. I run 4g cable into the block and i think 6 or 8g. out to the amps but thats up to you. My cap is a cheapo and does nothing for me so i would spend the $ and get a good one. They are rated in farads. good luck [IMG]
I am using 2 distribution blocks and they are not fused. The only fuses I am using is the 100A fuse 18" from the battery and the fuses for the amps. The distribution blocks are $6 and I get them from Parts Express. The blocks are 1-4 gauge in and 4-8 gauge out. Here is the link http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=265-800
Last edited by Blacker; Aug 6, 2006 at 09:21 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,378
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From: Atlanta, GA Ft. Walton Beach, FL
responses SUP litemup02 I dig the install of the aduio sys. whats the thing inbetween the amps.
Blacker thanks for advice haven't gotten advice from you in a while, couple years back on LS1 value you're advice .
This car is almost done /mods aduio will be the end untill I mile it up.
Blacker thanks for advice haven't gotten advice from you in a while, couple years back on LS1 value you're advice .
This car is almost done /mods aduio will be the end untill I mile it up.
I think that thing between the amps in litemup02 car is a Cap, I would think that a distrobution block would be fine unless you are adding an amplifier that draws alot of amperage. If so, i would add a capacitor or a second battery. Its not good to draw to much power unless you have an alternator that can handle it.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,378
Likes: 14
From: Atlanta, GA Ft. Walton Beach, FL
amps first amp RF3002 330RMS powering infinidy sub
second planned amp JBL 104X4 RMS powering door separates & sail panel separates.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ArcibaU...&display=L#Tab
Stock alternater .
see the holes in side of amp I'm thinking these are for air so in litemup02 install (looks good)
it appears to have the holes covered will ruein the amp?
Thanks
second planned amp JBL 104X4 RMS powering door separates & sail panel separates.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ArcibaU...&display=L#Tab
Stock alternater .
see the holes in side of amp I'm thinking these are for air so in litemup02 install (looks good)
it appears to have the holes covered will ruein the amp?
Thanks
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From: Showing Italians the power of LS1
Badmfkr- I would use a fused distrubution block since you will be running more than one amp. The seperate fusing allows for seperate protection, as your amps probably won't draw the same amount of current. If one amp's max current draw is 20A, and the other's max current draw is 60A, then you want an 80A fuse at the battery. If the 20A amplifier decided to "freak out" and burn itself up, it could pull 80A before the fuse at the battery blew. I believe you could start a pretty nice carpet fire with an amp that decided to blow up it's cherry red guts all over the place. Proper fusing at the distrubution block would keep each amp from drawing more current than it needs, therefore preventing fires. As far as your power cable gauge, you want to use your thickest cable to supply power to your distrobution block. From there, you can use a smaller gauge, as you are probably only going to go a couple of feet to the amp. In my car, I am using 1/0 Gauge (as big as your thumb) to the distrobution blocks, then 8 gauge to the amps. If you are running 4 gauge right now to your single amp, Id get a distro block with a single 4 ga in, and two 8 ga outputs like this: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...prodID=BC-1428
Then i'd use another fuseless block for your ground like this: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...prodID=BC-1448
You can connect your cap to your main 4Ga wire between the battery and distro block:
Hope I could help.
Then i'd use another fuseless block for your ground like this: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...prodID=BC-1448
You can connect your cap to your main 4Ga wire between the battery and distro block:
Hope I could help.
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From: MD
Originally Posted by Snootch
Badmfkr- I would use a fused distrubution block since you will be running more than one amp. The seperate fusing allows for seperate protection, as your amps probably won't draw the same amount of current. If one amp's max current draw is 20A, and the other's max current draw is 60A, then you want an 80A fuse at the battery. If the 20A amplifier decided to "freak out" and burn itself up, it could pull 80A before the fuse at the battery blew. I believe you could start a pretty nice carpet fire with an amp that decided to blow up it's cherry red guts all over the place. Proper fusing at the distrubution block would keep each amp from drawing more current than it needs, therefore preventing fires. As far as your power cable gauge, you want to use your thickest cable to supply power to your distrobution block. From there, you can use a smaller gauge, as you are probably only going to go a couple of feet to the amp. In my car, I am using 1/0 Gauge (as big as your thumb) to the distrobution blocks, then 8 gauge to the amps. If you are running 4 gauge right now to your single amp, Id get a distro block with a single 4 ga in, and two 8 ga outputs like this: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...prodID=BC-1428
Then i'd use another fuseless block for your ground like this: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...prodID=BC-1448
You can connect your cap to your main 4Ga wire between the battery and distro block:
Hope I could help.
Then i'd use another fuseless block for your ground like this: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...prodID=BC-1448
You can connect your cap to your main 4Ga wire between the battery and distro block:
Hope I could help.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,378
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From: Atlanta, GA Ft. Walton Beach, FL
made my choice of second amp and speakers this will be my second amp powering alpine spx-177r in doors and in sail panels.
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarA...ProductID=16956
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=16956
not sure of how much current it draws but seams to be a good idea to fuse the distrobution block.
so don't get a 4guage in an 4 guage out 4 & 8 out?
as far as a distrobution block for the grounds seams unnessesary can't I just come out of each amp to the body I mean ground is ground right? plus none of this stuff will be visable.
Lastly I was lead to beleive a cap won't be nessesary / this relatively mild power sys. ?
Thanks guys for advice I'm almost done / audio
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarA...ProductID=16956
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=16956
not sure of how much current it draws but seams to be a good idea to fuse the distrobution block.
so don't get a 4guage in an 4 guage out 4 & 8 out?
as far as a distrobution block for the grounds seams unnessesary can't I just come out of each amp to the body I mean ground is ground right? plus none of this stuff will be visable.
Lastly I was lead to beleive a cap won't be nessesary / this relatively mild power sys. ?
Thanks guys for advice I'm almost done / audio
Last edited by badmfkr; Aug 7, 2006 at 10:41 PM.
I'd say get a cap, i'd consider my set-up to be mild and it dims the lights pretty bad at high volume. The system in my last car fried the voltage regulator in the alternator.
Mine dimmed at night at higher volumes. I replaced the "big 3" and no more dimming. I used 4 gauge wiring in place of the stock wiring. Caps are more of a bandaid whereas a bigger alternator is the solution if the wiring upgrade does not fix the dimming issue.
Also, both amps would need 8 gauge and the 4/8 gauge will work fine. You also have 4 outputs to expand from, if need be.
Also, both amps would need 8 gauge and the 4/8 gauge will work fine. You also have 4 outputs to expand from, if need be.
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From: Showing Italians the power of LS1
That amp seems to have a max current draw of 50A. I would run 4 ga. to the distro block, then put a 50A fuse in for this amp, and whatever rating you need for your sub amp in the other position. Run the outputs of those fuses to each amp using 8 ga. wire. If you mean 4 8ga. outputs with one 4 ga. input, than yes that is fine. Right now you will only be using two of the four outputs. You can use the leftover outputs later for extra equipment or something.
A capacitor is not nessecary unless you have light dimming problems. After you install the system, hammer on the system at full volume at night with the car idling and the lights on. If the headlights and dash lighting dim noticeably when the bass hits, and your voltage gauge dips below 10v, then you will want to purchase a high output alternator to fix this problem. After a few months you can burn out the diodes on your stock alternator by drawing too much current through it.
If your headlights just barely dim when the bass hits, and your voltage gauge barely moves (or doesn't) then a 1 Farad capacitor will solve your problem. As said before, a cap is basically a band-aid for minor voltage dips. anything more serious than that really requires a high output alternator. (unless you like replacing alternators every few months.
)
A capacitor is not nessecary unless you have light dimming problems. After you install the system, hammer on the system at full volume at night with the car idling and the lights on. If the headlights and dash lighting dim noticeably when the bass hits, and your voltage gauge dips below 10v, then you will want to purchase a high output alternator to fix this problem. After a few months you can burn out the diodes on your stock alternator by drawing too much current through it.
If your headlights just barely dim when the bass hits, and your voltage gauge barely moves (or doesn't) then a 1 Farad capacitor will solve your problem. As said before, a cap is basically a band-aid for minor voltage dips. anything more serious than that really requires a high output alternator. (unless you like replacing alternators every few months.
) Last edited by Snootch; Aug 8, 2006 at 09:08 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,378
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From: Atlanta, GA Ft. Walton Beach, FL
voltage dipping I'm also interested in upgrading alternater Mine is the orginal 7 years old,/ 81K miles what is stock I'm thinking 120amps.
what would be a good upgrade? Can I rebuild the orginal? there's not to much to alternater right?
I don't drive much at night do'es this voltage dipping only occur when lights are on or even / AC on?
Thanks for sound advice.
what would be a good upgrade? Can I rebuild the orginal? there's not to much to alternater right?
I don't drive much at night do'es this voltage dipping only occur when lights are on or even / AC on?
Thanks for sound advice.