planing 2nd amp so I'll need more RCA connectors I've sean expensive and resonably priced stuff

is this stuff here any good?

http://www.cardomain.com/item/STRZN5250

Thanks

 

It does make a pretty big difference in sound quality. Im running three sets of Fostgate matrix rca's. When I switched from the cheapies i noticed a huge difference.

 

what about this stuff I'm currently looking at 24 karat gold tips?

how much should I expect to give for decent cables?

Thanks

 

I am using Phoenix Gold RCA Cables are they were ~$30 for 16 feet. This is the link http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...=263-491&DID=7

 

these RCA connectors look better than the crape I picked out but hey that's why I'm here asking I don't know.

now I'm thinking the initail amp install kit from summit (8 guage power & ground switched 12v wire & RCAs I gave $19.99 well I'm now thinking these RCAs are complete crape. or is it OK to cheap out on sub bass amp stuff?

Thanks

 

Badmfkr- I agree that you don't want to skimp on your RCA cables, as shitty cables can introduce noise. However, there are many manufacturers out there that would have you believe that their expensive cables can make a audible difference in music sound quality. That's horseshit. On one hand you don't want the el-cheapo radioshack un-shielded RCA's, but you don't need the $60 a meter ones either. If you are going to buy them locally, the highest $$ ones I recommend buying are the cheaper Monster Cable RCA's. However if you are like me, and don't want to break the bank, i recommend the cables sold online by Knukoncceptz.com. They have a really good prices on RCA cables. I would recommend these here, they're the same ones I use. They also have a 4 channel version of the same cable as well. What you need are cables that have a good connector, are shielded, and gold plating is good against corrosion. The Knukoncepts ones also have internal twisting that helps cancel noise.

 

I'm thinking 4 meters will be long enought for RCAs.

going / 3 sets of these
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...prodID=KAR2-4M

dis. block choice
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...prodID=BC-1428

my power wire is actually 5 guage will this connector be good for battery connection? I have a delco battery this connectors hole looks a little small?
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...rodID=RT4516BK

I'm curently using 16guage speaker wire (only on sub)
since I'm planning to bypass OEM amp should or do I have to I use new speaker wire? if so any suggestions.
Thanks guy's for sound advice

 

Both of your choices for RCA's and Distro blocks are good, however, I would double-check the distance between your radio and amps to make sure 12' is going to be long enough. I bought the 8 meter ones, but I also had lots left over (I figured i'd be better to have some left over than be too short). You will have to run speaker wire from the amp to each speaker since you are bypassing the OEM amp. This is the sucky thing about the Monsoon. I would spend a weekend and take the seats and carpet out, then take the door panels off. You can replace the window motor, remove both door speakers, then run your speaker and RCA wire. You will need a metal coathanger to help you get the speaker wire into the door from the kickpanel area. Fish it through the flexible rubber tube going into the door through the doorjamb. Once the wires are ran, install your speakers, put the door panels back on, reinstall the carpet, then seats and you're done.

 

yeh I was going to doudle check the lenght of RCAs I like 12' next would be 18' . what I've read about RCA cables is that the extra should not be close to the working (meaning doubling up wire slack) creates noise. or separate the working & slack.

speaker wire this 16 guage stuff I allready have is it good enought?

I was'nt planning on removing seats & carpet thought of fishing wires under pass. side carpet then under the back part of pass trim panel (will use telecom quailty tape inside the trim panel) back to amps inside spare tire area.

since I've ruled out kick panel mid bass speakers I may just slap my first set of components in the sail panel then evalueate SQ.

Thanks for advice these RCAs do look like quailty

 

Just on a note, it generally is not good to go with the cheap stuff (unless it is good stuff for a good deal) for any of your amps. Example.... my friend decided to get some 4 gauge wire from a shop and they sold him the cheap stuff... well when we were stripping the wire we found out why it was the cheap stuff. It didn't have 4 gauge wire in it, just 8 gauge wrapped in a thick 4 gauge sheath. They wouldn't take it back cause it had already been cut and he ended up having to buy a more expensive set on top of the cheaper set, plus we had to re-wire the damn thing.

 

i would get a set of monster wire 6 channel RCAs. It is one thick wire, with 6 gold plated male plugs.....it basically means, running 1 wire to hook up 3 amp channels. Not the cheapest, but makes running and hiding wires easier

 

oh yea, and like others said, dont skimp, cheap wires introduce noise

 

I used one of those on my wife's system, she has a 5-channel Kicker amp. It was sure nice having 3 pairs of RCA wires in a single wire, but it was like $60.

 

No, it is not ok.
Unless you like electrical humming. All the time.

I have never heard a bad system that was assembled with PG interconnects.

 

can I add values of the small fuses on the amp to determine each amps current draw? if yes then I know the fuse value for distrobution block right?

using 2 differnt amps apline 4X70rms & RF 1X330RMS

also is this 16 guage speaker wire kindof cheap OK to use?

Snootch I'm also planning to use the gutter repair tape how much will I need for 2 doors?

Thanks

 

after new HU driver window do'snt go up all the way about 1/8"

seams like the outside of window fits good around the outside rubber trim except the front see a small gapright behind the mirror, where I have noticed the window not all the way up is at the little triangle in front of window.

I looked inside this triangle theres nothing obstructing it.
reluctant to do my first planned test of reinstalling the stock HU.

any tips.

Thanks

 

I don't see how replacing your headunit can affect your power windows. Is the driver's side the door you were going to replace the motor on? Because one of my windows doesn't do all the way up, and the motor's getting weak on that one. I gotta let off it when it stops, and give it a second, then it'll go up the rest of the way.

 

The window on the pass. side is slow but rolls up all the way, I usally spary silicon on the flelt piece and it still works (only slow)

after HU the driver window won't go up all the way.

Thanks

 

Passenger window problems eh??

 

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

these rca cables look good?