New Sound System Install Part 1
#61
Getting closer...Today and yesterday I mounted the amp rack then mounted the amps. Everything works great now. I had a problem with one of the subs....I wired the DVC wrong initially and the amp rack was a PITA to mount. I still have to tuck the extra wires up and vaccuum the board to make it neat. I also need to paint the silver screw heads black and get the interior back in but I'm in the home stretch now.
#62
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My MTX box slides back in far enough and has a screen that covers it and with my amprack back there it hold is in place.
What did you use to mount your amprack back there? What length screw were they and how many? I got mine in but it is not bolted down so it moves sometime. I really need to get it done right.
What did you use to mount your amprack back there? What length screw were they and how many? I got mine in but it is not bolted down so it moves sometime. I really need to get it done right.
#64
Originally Posted by ExceSSive
What did you use to mount your amprack back there? What length screw were they and how many? I got mine in but it is not bolted down so it moves sometime. I really need to get it done right.
I mounted the rack by bolting a 4 x 4" mdf block to the latch support. I then hung 2 2 x 2" pieces of MDF for the tail light rods that stick out. I then drilled pilot holes and sank 3 2" wood screws through the rack into the MDF blocks and then attached the amps. I had all the holes predrilled and all the wires run. I just needed to screw the amps down. Keep in mind that the amp rack rests on the ledge along the bottom and all the screws to is keep it from pitching forward. They are not carrying any of the weight.
This rack will make changing bulbs on the driver side a real PITA as the rack will have to be removed which means removing the amps but I don't put that many miles of it and just put all new bulbs in before attaching it.
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Originally Posted by Mike02Z
I mounted the rack by bolting a 4 x 4" mdf block to the latch support. I then hung 2 2 x 2" pieces of MDF for the tail light rods that stick out. I then drilled pilot holes and sank 3 2" wood screws through the rack into the MDF blocks and then attached the amps. I had all the holes predrilled and all the wires run. I just needed to screw the amps down. Keep in mind that the amp rack rests on the ledge along the bottom and all the screws to is keep it from pitching forward. They are not carrying any of the weight.
This rack will make changing bulbs on the driver side a real PITA as the rack will have to be removed which means removing the amps but I don't put that many miles of it and just put all new bulbs in before attaching it.
This rack will make changing bulbs on the driver side a real PITA as the rack will have to be removed which means removing the amps but I don't put that many miles of it and just put all new bulbs in before attaching it.
Do you have any pictures of this?
#67
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I was gonna do the MDF thing on my amp rack, but was going to have a problem with how I mounted my distribution blocks and amps. I just drilled some holes in the top and put some big *** lag screws in there that go in to the body itself. Probably not the preferred method, but it has made getting back behind the rack very easy.
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Looks good, But I dont think 2 W3's and Focal 2 ways would have constituted that much deadening... I work at a Custom shop and we are putting 2 15" MTX Thunder 9500's, 2 sets of Boston Acoustic Z6's, and 2 MTX Super Amplifiers in a car and I dont even think that would need that much dynamat lol.
Also, nice amps and subs, but why in the world would you put that time into a sytem and then use 2ways? Components would blow those away, especially with all that deadengin and that head unit and those amps.
Also, nice amps and subs, but why in the world would you put that time into a sytem and then use 2ways? Components would blow those away, especially with all that deadengin and that head unit and those amps.
#70
Kleeborp the Moderator™
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Originally Posted by Sk8runeg
Looks good, But I dont think 2 W3's and Focal 2 ways would have constituted that much deadening... I work at a Custom shop and we are putting 2 15" MTX Thunder 9500's, 2 sets of Boston Acoustic Z6's, and 2 MTX Super Amplifiers in a car and I dont even think that would need that much dynamat lol.
Also, nice amps and subs, but why in the world would you put that time into a sytem and then use 2ways? Components would blow those away, especially with all that deadengin and that head unit and those amps.
Also, nice amps and subs, but why in the world would you put that time into a sytem and then use 2ways? Components would blow those away, especially with all that deadengin and that head unit and those amps.
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It's looking really good. I did my install this summer. I put in RamMat in my car and once you take the car for a drive you'll absolutly love the difference you'll hear(or not hear). The car honestly feels like a much higher car now, you don't have all the rattles, road noise, etc... that FBodies are known for.
Just one question, with 200sq/ft why didn't you put it on the doors? You're losing a big improvment by skipping it. I know you did the inside of the doors but they are so flimsy and such you're still missing a good part.
Did you buy any of the sound deadening foam or just the mat? I found it helped out a lot more than I ever thought it could.
Either way you'll love the difference and again, great job!
Just one question, with 200sq/ft why didn't you put it on the doors? You're losing a big improvment by skipping it. I know you did the inside of the doors but they are so flimsy and such you're still missing a good part.
Did you buy any of the sound deadening foam or just the mat? I found it helped out a lot more than I ever thought it could.
Either way you'll love the difference and again, great job!
#72
Originally Posted by Sk8runeg
Looks good, But I dont think 2 W3's and Focal 2 ways would have constituted that much deadening... I work at a Custom shop and we are putting 2 15" MTX Thunder 9500's, 2 sets of Boston Acoustic Z6's, and 2 MTX Super Amplifiers in a car and I dont even think that would need that much dynamat lol.
Also, nice amps and subs, but why in the world would you put that time into a sytem and then use 2ways? Components would blow those away, especially with all that deadengin and that head unit and those amps.
Also, nice amps and subs, but why in the world would you put that time into a sytem and then use 2ways? Components would blow those away, especially with all that deadengin and that head unit and those amps.
I believe even my crappy (ha!) 400.00 per pair Focal 2 ways will kick the **** out of any Boston Acoustics component speakers so let's just move on....
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I never said that, I was just using something we were doing as an example because the subs are 4000 watts total. I am not a fan of MTX, and I really like Focal, But I dont see why you wouldnt get components after all that work. Not bashing anything just asking a question.
And PS, Z's are $1000 a pair and your Focals couldnt even think of touching just the tqeeters from Z's
And PS, Z's are $1000 a pair and your Focals couldnt even think of touching just the tqeeters from Z's