sgt0704

iTrader: (3)

competiton..

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Nah, this is just my daily driver. It will never see a competition. That doesn't mean I don't want it loud though. SQ is first, but I still want to annoy people. I've never had a good "people annoyer". If I ever measure it I predict about 145dB which is good for 2 12"s in sealed enclosures.

I'd like to do this
short video clip

WhiteStripes

iTrader: (1)

Damn, that video clip is insane. But I think that huge single Rockford amp with the wood paneling looks ****. That with the Congas would be really cool and original. Keep in mind though that yes as you stated earlier the Congas are designed for bass, they rely on the hole in the bottom to help resonate that sound, and make it audible. I'd definitely try it first with the hole unsealed to see if it makes it sound any better or not.

6LITEREATER

iTrader: (56)

Just get a bolt in roll cage and you won't have permanently modded your car

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

The carpet will still have to be cut, but still, that's a good idea. Most of the bolt in cages I've seen fit very poorly as they don't hug the edges and block the rear view. If I were to get one it would have to be custom made or at least custom modified.

Any suggestions to where I could find more info?

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Here's an updated pic:

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I overlooked your post.

In my configuration the shells will just be speaker enclosures. I may even add some barriers to keep the sound wave from bouncing around in there. I'm sure they would sound like crap if the ends are not sealed. If they were larger I could mount a tuned port in the end to increase the SPL, but I don't like the sound or the look of ported enclosures, so it will be sealed for sure.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Here's another system that's pretty cool and I think it's very original. It's from LastBlack02SS and this thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...94#post6203694
It reminds me of what I'm working on right now.

fortheluckyones

hmm a carputer eh?? nice....I just finished installing a carputer in my buddies 04 jetta and that was my first real significant experience with one and i must say, im quite impressed. I have had thoughts of also putting my ps2 in my car as well, with the 8.5" screen in the consol and mounting the ps2 in the glove box (similar to how the AC controls were mounted in the one i saw on this thread)....any ideas on that??? would it work??

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Are we talking about in your 98 Formula? Putting a 8.5" screen is no problem if you relocate the A/C controls, but then the actual PS2 might not fit in there or it would at least block the *****. What would you have for music?

Or do you want to have a CarPC and then add a PS2? Give me some more details on what your asking.

fortheluckyones

I'm talking about possibly mounting the ps2 in the glove box, having either a motorized screen (alpine, panasonic, etc), or going with the 8.5" molded screen. Im not sure what i would do for music, thats why i was asking how the whole set up would go together and what i would need to be able to do it. hope that cleared it up!

Clark'sBadZ

iTrader: (1)

I put 2 12" Kicker CVX subs in the T-Top area and am powering themn with a JBL GTO 1200.1 Amp at 2 ohms, I also have a 2 farad Cap. My car hits about 147 DB and is insanely loud!

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

That helps a little. We are talking about in your Formula, right?
The easiest way to do it would be a radio that has a motorized screen. Typically those units also have auxiliary inputs and you could run a composite line and stereo sound into it from the PS2. For the PS2, since it woun't be on every day, you could just mount a small inverter out of the way with a remote turn on switch. To go from radio to game, you would flip the inverter switch, PS2 switch and then set the radio input to aux1. Then you should be good to go.

The hard way would be a plain, low res LCD for like under $100 and relocate the A/C controls. It would be a bigger screen, but then you'd have to figure out how to get music into the car.

If the PS2 has a HDMI output, you could step up to a PC resolution screen for about $200 or so and have a sharper image.

fortheluckyones

ahh yes this is in my formula. and I like what im hearing so far it doesnt sound like it would be very hard to do. it helps that i can do the install myself he he save me some installation cost.

ALSO....if anyone reading this thread is in the fort smith area, I do sterio installation on the side so if any of you need anything done. LMK

MikeFbody

iTrader: (2)

I've done that with 2 10" JL's in stealth boxes .. granted it was an audiocontrol meter. No way we'd see those numbers on a sensor mic.

nightmarechevy

iTrader: (5)

Here's mine, came this way.

fortheluckyones

that looks pretty clean the only probem is, I use my back seats from time to time so that might not work very well....but yet then again it might.....who knows...but it does look good!!

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

You have to remember the name of this thread.

If you want some basic ideas on more conventional setups check this thread:
Show your Sub/Amp setup

Another thread that is more in line with the rear seat and deck installs is here:
Rear Seat! Amp Racks

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Just a few more ideas for my system. First is a modded amp I call the Beast. It's actually 2 Rockford T8002's combined with one front cover. This looks like the 33" long T15004, but is actaully 46" long. The longest of this series never made. This will be the only one. Part of the uniqueness of it. It will deliver about 1200w to each sub. Do you think I should make it?



I also decided to change the mounting arraingment. If I bolt the amp rack into the side speaker areas I won't be able to hang my jacket on the coat hook. So I decided a better way would be to make a device similar to the LG Motorsports harness bracket. I'll bolt the small end of the sub enclosures to it and it will also hold the amp.

Harness bar pic is below.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I think I've figured out how to make the big amp. I don't need to mill or even grind the heatsinks down. I was overthinking it. The best way to do it is to cut them. I have a big handheld bandsaw that should slice through it like a hot knife through butter. I just remove the motherboards so I have just the heatsinks and cut the inside pieces that go together. Simple and I can do it myself. Then bolt them together through the heatsink fins. I even think I have the air flow circulation figured out. I'll block the top of the fins which will have the air inlet overhead and drill holes on the back side of the heatsink. So instead of the air flowing from underneath the mobo into the fins and up, the middle fins would blow the air out the back side of the amp. Actually, I should probably call Rockford and ask them how they did the air path on the 1500 amps. There may be an easier way.

So that's that. 46" amp here I come.

I would still need to hide the amp for the front stage or else maybe get a T15004 to power my mids and tweets. Do it with the wood cover and mount it above the 46 incher. Ah, it might be too much. It may draw attention away from the big dog. I don't know where else to put it. I guess I'll hide it like I said before.

I was also thinking of hinging the big amp along it's top so the front edge could be lifted (motorized) to gain access to the storage compartments under it. I just know that big momma is going to make it hard to get in there and work on the PC or whatever.

It would also be nice if I could make the wood conga shells just slip over a steel reinforced fiberglass speaker enclosure. That would solve a lot of problems right there.

I was also thinking that steel plate I made a while back that the congas where going to mount to may not be strong enough. If I dropped the gas tank I could drill some holes through both pieces of steel on the rear deck and weld in some threaded bungs. Then I could just slit the carpet a tiny bit right above them and run the bolts from inside the shells into the threaded bungs to tighten them down. That would be much stronger.

It is kind of a shame that no one will get to see those massive heatsinks on the subs. In my opinion, JBL made the cones boring looking and the frames really cool. I may just swap the dust caps for some solid black ones as well. Let people guess what they are.

There's just so many freaking small details to figure out. Hopefully it will all be worth it. It will be unique at least.

Later.