Firehawk526

iTrader: (1)

Not sure, but his car has been gutted in favor of performance mods.....think he sold the MOJO amps. He lives in Alabama. SOB was loud.....low 150's if I remember correctly. If I come across anymore, I'll let you know! Very few serious f-body competition cars these days. Yup, DJ is now on his 3rd (??) install for the Hawk. Yes, I've been following the posts! I assume you checked out the gallery on his website?

ME......I'm DUN! (lol)

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I've been taking to DJsexay for quite a while now, but I've never seen Livingston's car. His install isn't really the direction I'm going, but I really like it. Are there anymore pics? Why subs up front and rear? Maybe rears play upper bass and fronts play the really low bass?

Firehawk526

iTrader: (1)

Here is a link to that event (MECA Gallery).....pics of various rides/competitors(guy asleep in chair is Livingston)(we toasted a few prior to the event - lol):

http://www.mecacaraudio.com/forums/c...ls.php?album=6

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I'm not looking forward to building a big extravagent system. You can probably tell if you've seen my current setup, but I finally want something bigger in the bass dept as well as look real nice. For instance, If I got 2 matching congas, the finish work is already done. No painting, sanding or anything so I wouldn't ming spending $200-$300 on a nice pair. All I would do is notch them to sit and seal them up. It would look awesome as there are a lot of nice finishes to choose from. I can figure out a amp rack and PC location that works with them.

I haven't made up my mind, but I want as many ideas as I can get. Plus I need to listen to some systems to figure out how loud is loud enough. Once I know some actual numbers then I can predict what subs and so forth will get the job done.

like the view?

JasonWW, you should look into fi audio subs the price is right. The reputation is there, the old owner of RE audio sold his company to us amps and started his own company, FI Audio. www.ficaraudio.com The btl's can handle 3500 watts rms, 10000 watt bursts and cost less than 400 dollars per sub (15" and smaller the 18" is 410). The subs are all built to order in the united states of america.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

The BTL's are so pricey I'd only be able to get one. if I go with a single driver I'll check them out. The JBL GTi still looks best for single driver usage, but they don't make a 18". So I'll see. Thanks.

EDIT, they don't offer the BTL's in dual 4 ohm so they may not work for me.

like the view?

Why would you need it in dual 4??? You can wire dual 4 down to 2 ohms or wire dual 1 up to 2 ohms. So you can use dual 2 as well


Also how are the btl's pricey?? Name another brand new built to order sub for less than 500 dollars that can handle 10,000 watt bursts? If you want to run a loud setup you can also look into image dynamics idmax subs.

Firehawk526

iTrader: (1)

DD's (Digital Design), if you know someone! (lol) The 35 series(not the 99 series), that is! Those subs are plain RETARDED and put Memhis to shame (yes, I admitted that the MOJO's don't hold a candle, but then they won't handle the power either).

I can pickup a 3512 for about $350.00, but that is with my dealer discount!
Retail, I THINK around $700, but not sure on the 18".......I can check if you are interested!

Bear in mind, this is a TRUE SP sub, and wouldn't work all that well for sound quality IMO. Just depends on your preferences. SP>SQ or SQ>SP?

Rowdy94

iTrader: (13)

in the 4 pages of reading i lost the original objective. what's the whole point of putting them anywhere but the well?

MikeFbody

iTrader: (2)

to retain the rear well as a storage compartment, and / or to build a larger enclosure then will fit in the rear well.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I would need a dual 4 ohm due to me running 2 amps. For a single driver I would wire each amp to one VC. Each amp would be bridged to 4 ohm mono. It would be different if I were going to have 2 subs, as I could get a dual 2 ohm and wire them so each amps see's a 4 ohm load.

They are pricey, as 2 of them would go over my $500 budget. I don't need a built to order sub, do I? What are the advantages? I also don't have 10,000 watts to give it in a burst, only 600w times 2.

More important than loud is that they sound good. I may be putting a lot of emphasis on loudness, but I'm a SQ nut. If it doesn't sound good there's no point in putting it in the car. That's one of the reasons I'm not using a big watt, class D amp. I like that quick speed that class AB amps deliver.

Hopefully that clears up your questions.

I'm trying hard to find a way to use the JBL subs as they seem excellent with high sensitivety and sound quality plus work very well in tiny sealed enclosures. Due to their dual 6 ohm VC's they create a 3 ohm load to each amp. I think my particular amps will handle that, although they are not rated for it. I'll have to ask some pro's I know. If 3 ohms bridged is no problem, I'll see about getting 2 12's and see if they will work in a drum shell called a super tumba. They are the biggest at about 14" diameter. Typically the biggest congas you see are 11.5-12". For that size I'm sure a pair of 10's would fit without problem.

It's interesting to note that among the JBL GTi subs the 10, 12 and 15 are all within 1 dB sensitivity. (10" 90dB, 12" 91dB, 15" 92dB) I believe that this means a 10 will almost play as loud as a 12. Only 1 dB seperating them. With 2 subs, a pair of 12's will be only 2 dB more max than a pair of 10's. That's not very much at all. Does anyone know if there would be other differences, such as low end extension? If they would sound exactly the same and only be 2 dB less I would consider getting a pair of 10's and mounting them in the 12" congas.
This is an idea thread. I want to see what people have done as far as big systems. I have the whole back seat worth of wasted space and a rear storage area that I'm using for other things so it makes perfect sense to put the stereo stuff in the back seat area.

As you go along you experiment and learn things and get all kinds of good ideas that stretch your imagination. This is the process that the best fabricators in the world use.

like the view?

than look at the fi audio q's. They are sq drivers that can still bump some. I am looking to replace all of my diamond subs with the fi q's. I am a sound quality guy. I will stand behind fi subs 100% not only for the support i recieve, but also for the fact that i can email the owner and get a reply from him, most of the times in the same day. He used to own RE audio. I have heard both the btl and q firsthand and they are both great. The btl is more spl oriented and the q is sq oriented. Running the amps bridged might actually put out some more power for you as well as some amps will run x per channel and a little over 2x bridged. The q's would be over budget a little but once again you always have the ssd subs which i believe would still sound awesome and give you what you want.

As for the efficiency, it has less to do with loudness and more to do with response to power. A sub with a 92 db efficiency will use 600 watts more efficiently than a 85 db efficiency rated sub. Therefore being a little louder but not noticeable. The cone diamater is where spl is picked up. 10-> 12 " sub would be a 3 db increase. 2 12"s would be almost 3 db's louder than a single 15.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Yea, he had an awesome looking setup. I found a bunch of his pics:
http://www.audiocreationsonline.com/...s-Am/index.htm

Here is his description.
I guess I shouldn't assume everyone knows about DJsexays setup either so here are some links to his car.
http://www.djsexay.com/gallery/firehawk05
http://www.djsexay.com/gallery/album07
Older pics:
http://www.fbodyaudio.com/gallery/djsexay2
http://www.djsexay.com/

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

After do a bunch of research on the conga idea here is what I found. Most conga sets are 2 pieces each different in size. Typically a 10" and a 11". Only the large Super Tumba would be big enough for 12" subs as they are 12.5"-13" in diameter. These are very hard to find, not to mention finding 2 identical ones.

I did however find a source for raw wood super tumbas for about $115 each. They don't normally ship them as they sometimes crack due to the weather changes during shipping. If you sign a note that all sales are final they will ship them out. The advantage is they are not yet drilled with all the holes plus you can get 2 of the same size. If they develop a crack, no big deal. Just seal them from the inside and put the crack on the bottom where it won't be seen. You would need to make a plug for the bottom, a mount for the sub on the top and then give it a finish. The shear expense involved is making me shy away from it.

I wish I knew of a giant 17+" conga shaped wood enclosure. I'd drop a single 15 in it. That would be cool. These things have the same curvy lines as the TA and check this out: Congas produce bass notes from hitting the skin with your hand. Now replace the hand with an electrical striker (voice coil) and replace the skin with a speaker cone. Using a conga or drum shell as a sub enclosure is pure poetry. It's like old school vs. high tech. Their both putting out the bass.

MikeFbody

iTrader: (2)

I don't see how these conga's are going to produce any better sounding bass then a regular enclosure. The shape of the enclosure does not matter, as long as it is strong and resonant free.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Your missing the point. It's not about sounding better. If that where the only concern a ugly set of sonotubes would work. This whole conga idea is about the shape and finish of the enclosures. It is just amazing with the wood grain showing through the colors. It's so unique and different as well.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

That's nice and all Rick, but this tread is about big backseat installs, not the typical hatch enclosures. There are enough threads on hatch boxes already.

MikeFbody

iTrader: (2)

ok, I thought you were implying you'd get better sound.

anyway, those style of enclosures are not my thing.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Rick, can you delete some of your post or all of it?
I don't want to be rude, but I'm trying to focus this thread on the back seat type installs.

PS, those flat cone ED subs where made by TC Sounds and everyone agrees they kick ***. That Q logic pic is also going in my Q logic folder. I like the way those covers integrate the subs to the car. Very nice looking.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Here is a more refined version of the conga enclosure idea. I don't think it's so crazy anymore. I really like it.
I can make a floating amp rack by mounting the amps on the end of the enclosures. I still can't say what size sub I can fit as it depends on the size of conga I can find. 2 12's would be ideal, but it's very hard to find 2 large sized congas that are identical. I may have to buy raw ones and finish them myself. Now the smaller sizes are more likely to be found and I'm sure I can fit a 10" sub in one. If need be, it would be easy to add some reinforcement to the walls without loosing air space, so no big deal there. The entire inside can be coated with some material to strengthen it and seal it as well.

I can tuck the PC and misc stuff under them as the pics show. No big woop there, just simple covers with matching carpet with a simple fan to circulate air through it.

I think this install would turn a lot of heads as far as the beauty of it. I would certainly like seeing it everyday. I could go with a red or blue finish, but even a basic dark wood grain or cherry colored finish would look good and not be so bright. This, of course, could open the door for a few other matching wood accents here and there.