JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Is there a way to make the foil slightly undersized so that the fiberglass can be laid on over the outside? That seems a lot better than laying in on the inside with all the weird angles and awkward hand movements. I was thinking there may be a way to speed up the process. Like lay down 2 layers of fiberglass and then cover the outside with something thick. You mentioned truck bed liner. I know the rhino liner stuff is sprayed on thick. I wonder if I could make the box thin and take it to get sprayed over the outside. I think the one problem there is that the liner is kind of soft and not rigid. Would mixing that "milkshake" material work over the outside? What about just spreading bondo over the outside or would that add too much weight?

Does anyone make a thick fiberglass material so I won't have to have like 8 layers?

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Hell, if I'm going to use only one sub then I may as well just go back to mounting it in the back like so:



It's more efficient use of space as the duct won't be needed. It makes the whole back seat area less overbearing and more rooming feeling.

Having one sub and the PC side by side just didn't seem right plus it messed up the vent calculations. With a single sub I'd rather have it the center of the car as it just seems better.

Now if I can just cut a hole on the rear deck, over the gas tank and sink the speaker magnet down into it to lower the overall height.

PS, Mike, how did you get all that foam? I would like to carve some out just for testing purposes to get a feel for the overall size and to calculate the enclosure space. Does that sound feasible or would it be too much work?

MikeFbody

iTrader: (2)

I ordered the foam from uscomposites.com, it's 2lb density. It makes a heck of a mess when pouring, and it does not clean up easy at all. In other words, I only use it when it is absolutely the best method for what I'm trying to do, as it can be a real pain to work with, especially in the car.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Neat, but it seems pretty expensive once you figure shipping into it. Maybe I could get some expanding foam in a can and just make some blocks then glue them together? Wonder if it's easy to cut?


After thinking about it, facing the sub to the rear would probably be best. Believe it or not, but it doesn't block the rear vision when looking through the rear view mirror. I can mold the enclosure so it's only as tall as it needs to be and on either side of the sub it can slope down so the bass can fire backwards and then come around the sides and back towards the front. In my SPL testing this seems to work very well and I wouldn't need to seal off the back storage area. Plus it would look good when you pop the hatch.

ROCNDAV

iTrader: (100)

how about in the stock subwoofer area, just built it out a tiny bit to fit a 12" (or possibly a 15") ?

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

There is no stock subwoofer area. The factory subs in my car were in the B pillars. Little 6.5" subs.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Yet another diagram of the latest idea. I know, your probably sick of seeing these.

I was thinking, if 600w is plenty for each of these subs, then why not get 2 12's? In this location the 12's would be lower and offer more visability to the rear plus more overall output for the same 1200 watts. I'm looking into the Rockford T1 subs right now and this power rating seems to fit them better.

A lot of folks comment on the T1's absolutely pounding in a ported enclosure tuned to about 30-35Hz, so I figure I could try a ported box. I could add a 4" port on the outside and then adjust the port length to the right freq and what sounds best. My Alpine H700 can set a subsonic filter at 30Hz or whatever with a 36 dB slope so that it won't try and play anything below the tuned freq. If I don't like it, I can seal it off.

If I decide to keep the port, the actual fiberglass enclosure will have the 2 12's facing the rear. The port can extend up out of the box and fire to the rear, exiting right in between the subs. With it all molded in and curvy, I think that would look pretty cool.



Any opinions?

NOIR

iTrader: (3)

Thats looking like a nice set up. The port would look a little strange lol but still cool. What would you put on the passenger side where the PC is? I'm a symmetry freak, lol so i was just wondering.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

That side would display the passive x-overs for the front component set, the alpine H700 brain and probably the fused distribution block. Then, what won't be visable would be a lot of the wiring, PC PSU and other misc parts.

To really be symetrical you'd want 2 mobo's, but it's not real practical, but I think this would work out pretty well. These are also going to be less visable as they are lower and facing forward so they probably won't be seen unless you lean the front seat forward. The things really visable would be the row of amps and the subs and port.

That big 6" port can be molded in and made to look very neat. Just think of the Alpine show cars with all thier wierd flwoing, molded shapes, then remove the crazy colors and make it a solid glossy black or gray suede or something. I could curve the port to make it look more like a backbone as well. There's a lot of ways to do it to make it look good.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I've already built a steel plate mounting base to bolt this big box down to. This was from another amp rack idea I had.





And the row af amps. I didn't want to disconnect the ones already in my car so I photoshopped one amp to simulate the 3 altogether. The endcaps are missing, but you get the idea.

2FAST4U

I have a 3 RockFord amp setup with links like that for sale. 800a4 and 1000bds. Super crazy cheap and with digital read outs. Oh and never used!

Just throwing it out there if anyone wants. IMHO I loved the look super clean, and everyone was like that is a huge amp!

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2599...54690673YyPZVW

Lubricant

Dont put subs anywhere in this car foreward of the trunk dip!!!

MikeFbody

iTrader: (2)

Why ? did you not read the thread ? Jason has done his homework and his tests show that you can have just as much SPL with the subs on the rear deck as you do when they are in the well.

mike

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I'm not in the market for amps, sorry.

I like that look with the links, but I think it's too wide for the rear deck of a f-body. Where did you have these mounted? Or was it in a different vehicle?

If you look at post #11 I did a few tests to see whats more efficient. As far as SQ goes they don't have to be in the far back. With some EQ it can sound good in the back seat or where ever, but you lose volume. A good 5dB, which is a lot. I could really tell the difference. My duct idea to keep the speaker corner loaded may work to harness that lost SPL, but I'm not going to test it. It's too much work to build it just for a test, plus it wastes too much space even if it does work.

With my sub on the rear deck facing the rear music sounded EXACTLY like it did in the dip firing up. I mean I had to turn around and look just to make sure. SPL meter confirmed the same volume so I'm sure this latest idea would work very well.

With 2 12's I would probably need to use a 6" port to prevent air flow noise. I curved the port to look more like a spine or something. In the car I think it would look very interesting. I kind of need something in that spot above the amps or else it will be a big blank space.



I'm having the hardest time deciding between 2 12's with 600w each or a single 15 with 1200w. The 12's will be somewhat louder, but cost almost twice as much. From a looks standpoint the 12's would be nicer. If I did the single 15 I would probably run 2 4" ports along the bottom of the box and exit out the back on either side. I can't seem to decide. Any thoughts?

2FAST4U

It fit on the rear shelf above the gas tank like JasonWW. I only want $400 for it all. In a 3rd gen but I think it will fit a 4th too.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

OK, I made a few mock ups and snapped a few pics. I just want your opinions on the overall look. I want it to be different and I want folks to be impressed when the hatch is popped.

Here are the 2 12's:





Here is the single 15:


I think I prefer the look of the single 15. Here is the view of it looking over my shoulder like I would normally do when backing up and through the rear view mirror.




These aren't bad at all. I could live with that. Here is the fiberglass box shape I would go with:



What do you like?

Lubricant

From experience, if you just get the right subs in the right box, it will sound clean..
Ive put back seat systems in, and they are never as loud as the trunk well setup..
The angle of the windows is perfect!

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I've already addressed the corner loading and how a sub firing to the rear will have the same SPL as one in the back storage well firing up.

I think I my just go with a sealed box for max SQ. That means a 2-2.5 cu ft box. What I will try is make the box extend forward and down to the trans tunnel. It avoids the complicated seat well shapes. Then mount the amp rack to the front of the box. Tuck the PC and such underneath it and still have a little left over room for storage.

PS, I can extend the edge of the sub forward and drop it down a little to reduce the overall height as well.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

OK guys, here is the latest plan based on a JBL 15" GTi sub in a sealed 2.5-3 cu ft box. I'm waiting to hear back about what size would be best, but I think I'm close. How to finish the fiberglass box has been bugging me as I've thought about carpet, vinyl, vinyl over thin foam, etc... I think I should just make it, get it thick enough, cure the fiberglass, add bondo to smooth it out as much as I can and then take it to a body shop and have it professionally painted gloss black to match the car. I have the dark gray charcoal interior so it should look great in there. What do you guys think of that?

like the view?

if you want suggestions or pics pm me. I can sell you a box for your back seats that is already built and hold 2 15's.