Anyone Put Subs or Amps in Back Seat or Have a Big System There?
#43
That's very nice looking.
Do you have any larger pics? You can send them here if they are too big to post.
jasonw_ward2@hotmail.com
Do you have any larger pics? You can send them here if they are too big to post.
jasonw_ward2@hotmail.com
#46
On The Tree
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he did the offset for looks. The subs are also two of a kind, they are the only two in the world that are chromed. The quality is immaculate. What you cant see is the inside lined with 1 inch of non-hardening modelling clay. The box was built to compete in national finals.
His current set up is 2 18's in the rear ifinite baffle.
Both systems sounded amazing, i compete with him and have helped with both systems both at audio obsessions and on the road.
His current set up is 2 18's in the rear ifinite baffle.
Both systems sounded amazing, i compete with him and have helped with both systems both at audio obsessions and on the road.
#47
Originally Posted by like the view?
His current set up is 2 18's in the rear ifinite baffle.
#48
Or you could wall off the back of the car like this and put the subs in the lower part of the divider.
http://www.airstream.dk/EL%20Camaro%...0NO%20SEAT.jpg
http://www.airstream.dk/EL%20Camaro%...0NO%20SEAT.jpg
#49
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his is the cutout method, he cutout the bottom of the rear storage, aperoidic membranes i believe. But to be sure, you could always call him at work, ill pm you audio obsessions number.
#50
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Originally Posted by like the view?
yes its already built.
it has competition wins under its belt.
its owned by one of my best friends
its out of his car as he changed his set up this year.
it has competition wins under its belt.
its owned by one of my best friends
its out of his car as he changed his set up this year.
HIS car ???
HE may have done the work, but I always thought it was HER car .
Tell Kristen and Jeff that Mike Lacher says hi!
mike
#51
I was searching fiberglass enclosures and ran across a box that is a little bit similar to what I have planned. It's in the back of a 350z and is only using a single 12, so it's not that draw dropping, but it does look good with all the paint work finished.
#52
It was suggested I make a plug of the top curvy part of the box, then a mold and then pop the final product out of the mold and epoxy it to the base. This sounds pretty good to me and reduces all the final sanding of a "stretched fleece" type box (which I don't like the shape of).
I'm going to do a lot of searching online to find the best products and best techniques to make this thing just so I don't end up ankle deep in bondo dust. I will more than likely get it as close to finished as I can, but let a body shop do the final smoothing out and all the paint work.
If I can't find any better ways then I'll stick with what I know and make the outer structure from sheetmetal. I'm sure I can do that. That way the outer surface will be nice and straight and easily prepped for paint. Once the outer shell is finished I'll just start layering the inside with fiberglass until it's nice and thick.
I don't think fiberglass is going to bond really well to metal, so I can do a small section and see how strong it is. If the fiberglass breaks off I can line the sheetmetal shell with some kind of mold release stuff and then do the numerous layers of glass. Once finished I can bond the metal shell to the fiberglass enclosure with epoxy. Hopefully that will do the trick.
I'm going to do a lot of searching online to find the best products and best techniques to make this thing just so I don't end up ankle deep in bondo dust. I will more than likely get it as close to finished as I can, but let a body shop do the final smoothing out and all the paint work.
If I can't find any better ways then I'll stick with what I know and make the outer structure from sheetmetal. I'm sure I can do that. That way the outer surface will be nice and straight and easily prepped for paint. Once the outer shell is finished I'll just start layering the inside with fiberglass until it's nice and thick.
I don't think fiberglass is going to bond really well to metal, so I can do a small section and see how strong it is. If the fiberglass breaks off I can line the sheetmetal shell with some kind of mold release stuff and then do the numerous layers of glass. Once finished I can bond the metal shell to the fiberglass enclosure with epoxy. Hopefully that will do the trick.
#53
Here are some more pics I found of big installs.
This guy goes by 82firebird and it's pretty damn cool.
More pics here:
http://www.milleronline.com/aaron/stereo
This guy goes by 82firebird and it's pretty damn cool.
More pics here:
http://www.milleronline.com/aaron/stereo
#56
What would be a cool display of subs for the rear deck firing back or to the sides?
What haven't you seen?
A single 18" firing to the rear and up? That would be cool.
What about 2 12's with a 15" LCD in between and have the 12's facing slightly away from each other?
How about 4 10's with 2 firing to the rear and the 2 on the sides kind of angled away from the center?
I'd like to do something different and unique and possibly have more output than the single 15 idea. Elemental Designs makes a 18" sub that needs 2.5 cu ft sealed. In the dual 4 ohm I could give it 1200 watts. It's only 250 bucks.
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...products_id=37
I haven't bailed on the single 15" JBL W15GTi as that is probably the best SQ woofer out there, but it does have a weird dual 6 ohm VC. What's really cool about them is that they apparently work very well in a small 1.5 cu ft box! I kind of want to get 2 and drop them in a 3 cu ft enclosure, but my amps would get an odd load.
Are there any crazy ideas you'd like to see?
What haven't you seen?
A single 18" firing to the rear and up? That would be cool.
What about 2 12's with a 15" LCD in between and have the 12's facing slightly away from each other?
How about 4 10's with 2 firing to the rear and the 2 on the sides kind of angled away from the center?
I'd like to do something different and unique and possibly have more output than the single 15 idea. Elemental Designs makes a 18" sub that needs 2.5 cu ft sealed. In the dual 4 ohm I could give it 1200 watts. It's only 250 bucks.
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...products_id=37
I haven't bailed on the single 15" JBL W15GTi as that is probably the best SQ woofer out there, but it does have a weird dual 6 ohm VC. What's really cool about them is that they apparently work very well in a small 1.5 cu ft box! I kind of want to get 2 and drop them in a 3 cu ft enclosure, but my amps would get an odd load.
Are there any crazy ideas you'd like to see?
#58
You know, I've had that same idea before a while back but forgot about it. There are these cardboard tubes designed for concrete columns that are really well suited for subwoofers. They are called sonotubes and you see them a lot in home theater setups.
I like that they can be made to look like missles or rockets as well.
I did a whole bunch of research on these about 6 months or so ago. There are some already built that resemble a drum.
I personaly don't like those (pics below) but I did have an idea based on congas. They look great but it is difficult finding a pair of the same size. Normally conga sets are not matched, one is smaller so that it has a different sound.
Check out those conga pics, aren't they beautiful?
The reason I gave up on them was because I thought they would have to mount up and down on the t-top well to sound good. They are slightly too wide for a pair of them there, but on the back deck, they just might work.
I like that they can be made to look like missles or rockets as well.
I did a whole bunch of research on these about 6 months or so ago. There are some already built that resemble a drum.
I personaly don't like those (pics below) but I did have an idea based on congas. They look great but it is difficult finding a pair of the same size. Normally conga sets are not matched, one is smaller so that it has a different sound.
Check out those conga pics, aren't they beautiful?
The reason I gave up on them was because I thought they would have to mount up and down on the t-top well to sound good. They are slightly too wide for a pair of them there, but on the back deck, they just might work.
#60
I'm not sure I'd go with the JL W7's as they are too pricey and there are much cheaper subs out there that are also very good sounding. I think I'm going to have to get a good upper range (SQ wise) sub instead of the best SQ sub like the W7 and GTi. There are a lot of good ones out there.
It would be nice to have a pair of 1000w class AB amps, but I'm stuck with the 600 watters. I think I just need to find subs that can reach their peak with 600-700 watts. I think I would have to go with 2 12's with the twin tube idea as I'm sure 15's would kill the rear vision.
Large PVC tubing can also work well. Does anyone know if PVC can be heated and bent? That would open up some ideas.
Even if I run 13" tubes it will be really tall and hurt the rear vision. Not so much from the rearview mirror, but when you turn your head around. I would need to notch the tubes around the front of the rear deck so that the tubes are tipped down in the front. I'll have to do some more testing on this idea.
Something like this:
It's awesome and crazy all rolled into one!
It would be nice to have a pair of 1000w class AB amps, but I'm stuck with the 600 watters. I think I just need to find subs that can reach their peak with 600-700 watts. I think I would have to go with 2 12's with the twin tube idea as I'm sure 15's would kill the rear vision.
Large PVC tubing can also work well. Does anyone know if PVC can be heated and bent? That would open up some ideas.
Even if I run 13" tubes it will be really tall and hurt the rear vision. Not so much from the rearview mirror, but when you turn your head around. I would need to notch the tubes around the front of the rear deck so that the tubes are tipped down in the front. I'll have to do some more testing on this idea.
Something like this:
It's awesome and crazy all rolled into one!
Last edited by JasonWW; 11-02-2006 at 11:20 AM.