JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I can get some raw ash conga shells with a 13" wide diameter on the big end. Most 12" subs have a max diameter of between 12" and 12.75" so I could flush mount the subs like this:



That would allow for 2 12's and some pretty hefty bass.

If I really wanted to get tricky, I could get the conga hardware with an undersized hoop and then use the side posts to hold the subwoofer into place. That would be bad *** with say chrome hardware, but I digress. I'm getting ahead of myself. A simple router to undercut the end, drop the sub in place and then screw it down would suffice.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Here's the latest revision.


I decided to seperate the amp rack from the subs. I can weld up some steel tubing and make endplates that bolt into the sail panel speaker mounts. I can put a Rockford Power 1100a2 in the center and 2 rockford Punch 225.2's on either side. With the links it will look like a single 48" wide amp! Should look cool and will hide all the wiring as well as they can be run inside the tubing. I guess I'll paint the tubing gloss black. I'm not sure whether to use round or square tubing, though.

I toned down the red in the congas to make it a better match to the stain finish I have in my head.

I'm also wondering if the PC cover should be curved and carpeted or if I should make it 2 flat pieces of wood and match the stained finish to the sub enclosures. Any thoughts?

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Amps will look something like this. Once I get the big one in I'll take an actual picture of them all together instead of a PS stitch job.

sgt0704

iTrader: (3)

i cant wait to see it finished

PlatnumStatuz

iTrader: (6)

U have a unique setup in mind, can't wait to see the conga shell idea applied.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Anyone have an idea for sealing the bottom cutout part on the enclosure? I was thinking of taking some 1/8" steel plate and bending it in the shape to match the seat curve. Cutting the shell after I figure out how much air space I'll have and then laying it on top of the metal plate so it fits tight. Mark my outline of the enclsoure. Then drill holes just to the inside of the outline so I can run screws straight up into the wood. I can use silicone to seal it off and then tighten up all the screws. I can probably run another bead along the inside edge just to make sure it's sealed. Or I might use liquid nails, but I'm not sure how well it bonds to metal. Once the metal bottom is on and sealed up I can weld studs in the metal base I showed before that bolts into the car. Then cut matching holes into the enclosure base and set it right on top of one another so the threaded studs stick up inside the enclosure. I can then add silicone and big washers and tighten them down. I figure maybe 3 or 4 studs for each enclosure. That should do the trick.

The other way was to make 2 flat pieces of wood to be the base, but I think metal would be better. It will keep the enclosure from sticking up a little higher and be stronger as well. I plan to cut a single piece of carpet to fit around the enclosures. If I make the gaps tight it will look real good. The rear part will be one piece and I will cut slits in the front part under the small end of the enclosure. That way you won't see any seams in the carpet. The enclosures will just appear to pop up out of the carpet.

If anyone has a better idea for sealing and mounting the subs into the car, let me know. My main worry is that it will leak.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

A bit of an update.

As things are looking I will be getting one 1100a2 amp and 2 of the JBL GTI 12" subs. I did a quick mock up of the amps and it looks awesome. I figure I can use square tubing for the rack. I'll have to remove one of the side panels in order to mount or remove it, though. No big deal really.

I'm considering wrapping the tubing in that wood grain contact paper stuff (whatever it's called) and then clearing over the top of it to give it depth and realism. I still need to work on how the whole amp rack will be finished as I'm not sure the raw amps bolted to wood looking steel tubing is going to look "finished" enough. I figure I can cut square holes into the speaker grills with a slice in them and then just flex the grill over the end and pop it into place. That way the tubing will appear to come cleanly out of the grill. I've seen roll cages done like this and it looks pretty good.

It should be easy enough to make the PC cover below the amps and sub enclosure from wood and do a matching stain on it. So that's no big deal.

I'm thinking I should also do a hinged stained wood cover behind the subs in place of the factory flap thing. That way I can pop the hatch and all my tools and stuff will be hidden. It may also help bounce the sound waves forward and keep the storage well area from vibrating. I don't know, something to think about.

I got my old 10.4" LCD sold, so I'll be ordering a new one soon that hopefully has a better viewing angle. In a few weeks I'll order the conga enclosures to make the sub enclosures out of. They will probably crack at least a little do to the weather changes during shipping, so I'll have to deal with that when the time comes.

I did figure out how to make the routered cuts in the end to countersink the subs. I'll bolt a wooden plug into the big end and then drill my centering hole. Then put the router on those jigs that you use to cut speaker holes. That way I can get the countersink centered just right and not cut the side out of the shell. Then I'll just unbolt the wooden plug.

As I start to work on it, I'll start a new thread so this one doesn't get too big. I'm open to ideas if you want to shout some out.

Firehawk526

iTrader: (1)

Wow....wonder where those JBL subs came from (lol)

Good choice!

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I don't think I mentioned it, but they are the ones from DJSexay's car. Post 15 has a pic of them. He's dropping in new ones with the new dustcap design. I'm buying his old ones which are physically the same, but the old dust cap. My last set of subs lasted 9 years so I figure theres plenty of life left in these.

I'll see how I like the looks, but I may just swap new dustcaps into place to dress them up a little.

Firehawk526

iTrader: (1)

Hey Jason, it was a joke! I got the other ProPower 12" GTI (lol)

Should work well for ya, but I agree (swap out the dust caps, or obtain grills)

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Oh yea, from fbodyaudio.com. I forgot about that. I'm running this idea here and in the MP3car forums to get ideas and sometimes I forget what I've mentioned or not mentioned and to whom. It's confusing sometimes.

Anyway, I'm still not feeling this amp rack. I like having the one big looking amp stretched across the back behind the seats, but it needs something else.

Does mounting it into the sail panel speaker area make sense? It is not hard to do and would be a solid mount. I think's it's just the square tube construction. It seems out of place with the flowing curved wood theme.

I'll try and come up with something that looks better soon. Maybe encase the amps in a wooden enclosure that hides the steel. Then maybe add some curve to the shape to make if flow a little. I could then add a glass panel across the front to see the amps inside. Or maybe just a wood frame around the edge of the amps. I don't know.

Here's a better amp pic with the guages I envision.

Firehawk526

iTrader: (1)

Wow, U are talkin some serious "customization". Unfortunately (or fortunately - lol), I havent' gone to such extremes so I cannot advise you on that idea.

I really tried to keep my system KISS, but even that was before I realized I was dealing w/an F-body

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Maybe something like this:


I may have to notch the bottom to fit around the trans tunnel so that it won't sit too high and block the view of the sub enclosures, but it would still look better than before.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Looks like my second Rockford 1100a2 amp deal may have fallen through. I haven't gotten the final word on that. Anyway I was trying to find a new amp. I think a good one would be the new Rockford T15004 amp. At 14.4 volts it puts out about 2400 watts. Due to the unique dual 6 ohm coils I'll have to get the 4 channel which makes it's most power at 2 ohm stereo and then wire the subs for 3 ohm each. At that load I'd get about 900w to each sub.
It's expensive, but I could sell at least one of my 225.2 amps to make up some of that.

It is 33" wide and 13" tall. Here is a pic to give you an idea of it's size:



And here is what it would look like with a wood finish on it:



I could just have the one amp across the rear seat area and then mount my one 225.2 amp for the front speakers someplace hidden.

What do you guys think of that?

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I'm going to have to come up with a stronger mounting system for the sub enclosures. I got those bad boys in and they weight 28lbs each! Christ, I think I hurt my back lifting them. They make my old subs feel like paper weights. Here's a few pics.






I'm seriously considering getting a 4 point roll bar installed then I could just use it to mount my gear. Plus it adds safety in case of an accident. I just hate to permanently mod the car like that. I'll have to think about it some more. I might be able to get away with just having the steel tubing amp rack go across from one side to the other and then have the small end of the sub enclosures bolted to that to act as an additional mounting point.

Anyone have any other ideas?

sgt0704

iTrader: (3)

get smaller subs???

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

What chu talkn bout Willis!?

Nah, not going smaller. I'm already going to be down on SPL with the sealed enclosures. The 12's will work fine. I just need to hit'em with 1000w each.

sgt0704

iTrader: (3)

so you're going for comp huh? that's cool. i still think the bongo tubes would look sweet.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

What do you mean by me "going for comp"?

Yes, the conga shells will look real nice once stained and cleared. It should be the focal point of the car.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Another idea is to add a 3" diameter tubing, like that used in rollcages, and have it go through the speaker grills and bolt onto the the frame. Then fab some curved cradles which can be screwed into the shells.