picking out an alternater upgrade 200 or 160
#1
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my amps are 4x70WRMS & 1X 330WRMS is 200 amps to much or is is better to have than the 160 amp?
I expect to be able to bump my **** at ideal/ AC & lights on.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...fm?prodID=8203
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...fm?prodID=8203
Thanks
I expect to be able to bump my **** at ideal/ AC & lights on.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...fm?prodID=8203
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...fm?prodID=8203
Thanks
#2
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Important factor in a Hi output alternator is the Idle Amps - since this is when most of the discharging will be done if you have heavy hitting accessories.
Personally I went with a HO alternator from Nathan at Excessive Amperage - his 200A alternators actually put out 160A at idle, and they can be powdercoated also.
-Jay-
Personally I went with a HO alternator from Nathan at Excessive Amperage - his 200A alternators actually put out 160A at idle, and they can be powdercoated also.
-Jay-
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I got mine from EA as well. There is no such thing as "too much", your stereo system will draw as much power as it needs. It is just nice to have the extra amps should you need them if you upgrade your amplifiers or add other power accesories to your system. Besides the 200A costs slightly more.
BTW, here's a few threads about Excessive Amperage:
http://www.fbodyaudio.com/cgi-bin/ya...4885255;start=
http://www.fbodyaudio.com/cgi-bin/ya...6666;start=0#0
http://www.fbodyaudio.com/cgi-bin/ya...5143;start=4#4
BTW, here's a few threads about Excessive Amperage:
http://www.fbodyaudio.com/cgi-bin/ya...4885255;start=
http://www.fbodyaudio.com/cgi-bin/ya...6666;start=0#0
http://www.fbodyaudio.com/cgi-bin/ya...5143;start=4#4
Last edited by Snootch; 10-04-2006 at 07:24 PM.
#11
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OK big 3 sounds like a good plan.
I have some left over #4 guage wire I used on my amp. install would this be OK in the engine compartment if I added some plastic conveluted tubeing for heat protection?
will copper ring conectors be good enought?
?where is the (1) engine to chassis ground(cable). located? I've sean a ribbon type of wire under the car not sure what it's for tho..
also I planning on a Race tronics fuel pump this pump is suposed to use double the power compared to stock pump.
Thanks
I have some left over #4 guage wire I used on my amp. install would this be OK in the engine compartment if I added some plastic conveluted tubeing for heat protection?
will copper ring conectors be good enought?
?where is the (1) engine to chassis ground(cable). located? I've sean a ribbon type of wire under the car not sure what it's for tho..
also I planning on a Race tronics fuel pump this pump is suposed to use double the power compared to stock pump.
Thanks
#12
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OK big 3 sounds like a good plan.
I have some left over #4 guage wire I used on my amp. install would this be OK in the engine compartment if I added some plastic conveluted tubeing for heat protection?
will copper ring conectors be good enought?
?where is the (1) engine to chassis ground(cable). located? I've sean a ribbon type of wire under the car not sure what it's for tho..
also I planning on a Race tronics fuel pump this pump is suposed to use double the power compared to stock pump.
Thanks
I have some left over #4 guage wire I used on my amp. install would this be OK in the engine compartment if I added some plastic conveluted tubeing for heat protection?
will copper ring conectors be good enought?
?where is the (1) engine to chassis ground(cable). located? I've sean a ribbon type of wire under the car not sure what it's for tho..
also I planning on a Race tronics fuel pump this pump is suposed to use double the power compared to stock pump.
Thanks
4 ga should be ok, 1/0 is better, but probably overkill for you application. Plastic convoluted tubing doesn't offer any kind of heat protection. Get it close to heat and it just melts away faster than the wire insulation.
#13
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Your stock alternator will handle the draw from your amps just fine as long as it is good working condition. I have a 1000wrms amp right now on my stock alt and it barely wiggles my volt gauge and there is hardly any dimming in the lights. You can get a stock replacement alt for about $100.
#14
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I have done the big 1. just added #4 guage from neg. battery to the body
on top of the orginal wire.
my idel is set low 590RPM on HP tuners ( I have a mild street stripe cam).
observations are as follows.
1.charges at a solid 12Vs at idel w/ nothing on.
2.stays at solid 12Vs w/ AC on wide open.
3. w/ AC wide open and headlights on it jumps to over the straight up position of 12Vs looks like 13.5Vs.
this is not a complete test because I did'nt have the radio on. will test that Thrusday to dam hot outside.
I would like to know where the engine to ground wire is located?
Thanks Guy's for helpfull surport
on top of the orginal wire.
my idel is set low 590RPM on HP tuners ( I have a mild street stripe cam).
observations are as follows.
1.charges at a solid 12Vs at idel w/ nothing on.
2.stays at solid 12Vs w/ AC on wide open.
3. w/ AC wide open and headlights on it jumps to over the straight up position of 12Vs looks like 13.5Vs.
this is not a complete test because I did'nt have the radio on. will test that Thrusday to dam hot outside.
I would like to know where the engine to ground wire is located?
Thanks Guy's for helpfull surport