How To Relocate Climate Controls 97-02
#21
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Would you keep the stock stuff like that? It would look good, but I have a feeling you could switch to smaller ***** with a set screw at the same time you seperate the switch bodies (the junk on the back of the panel) from the mounting plate, and save a ton of room. I did a cursory look into this and guitar/bass hardware with a set screw works fine, and is small, and there are a ton to choose from.
Then the only thing that really dictates the size of the operation is how big the switch body behind the mounting plate is. IIRC you could nearly, with the type of center console moding you are talking about, get two of them side by side and then have another offset behind then, closer to the armrest.
I believe when I measured the switch bodies, they would nearly all fit where the TCS/storage cubby are. That was a while ago.
Your work on the blend door switch is excellent. Pioneering even.
Then the only thing that really dictates the size of the operation is how big the switch body behind the mounting plate is. IIRC you could nearly, with the type of center console moding you are talking about, get two of them side by side and then have another offset behind then, closer to the armrest.
I believe when I measured the switch bodies, they would nearly all fit where the TCS/storage cubby are. That was a while ago.
Your work on the blend door switch is excellent. Pioneering even.
#22
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The size of the ***** are just right for me. I already swapped the factory ***** out to these so I could get a better grip on them. The smaller ***** your talking about would tear up your fingers trying to twist them.
Post #1 shows the back side and how huge the controls are so there's no point in trying to cut down their size or use smaller *****. All 3 should fit just right. I could also angle each of the 3 controls to the rear kind of like a triple cluster A-piller guage set, but just a little angle, not a lot. That may make it look more factory.
I thought about lowering them as well, but it would be a pain to relocate my switches and build a new cupholder attached to the front of the passenger seat. That really isn't the worst part, it's reshaping the console. I do have an extra complete console so I can take my time making it, but I kind of don't like moving stuff around. My existing TCS and cutout switch would have to be relocated to a new easily accessable location. It just seems like extra work. I haven't ruled it out, though.
Post #1 shows the back side and how huge the controls are so there's no point in trying to cut down their size or use smaller *****. All 3 should fit just right. I could also angle each of the 3 controls to the rear kind of like a triple cluster A-piller guage set, but just a little angle, not a lot. That may make it look more factory.
I thought about lowering them as well, but it would be a pain to relocate my switches and build a new cupholder attached to the front of the passenger seat. That really isn't the worst part, it's reshaping the console. I do have an extra complete console so I can take my time making it, but I kind of don't like moving stuff around. My existing TCS and cutout switch would have to be relocated to a new easily accessable location. It just seems like extra work. I haven't ruled it out, though.
#23
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Yeah, no just throwing some stuff out there.
Are you going to countersink the control panel at all or try and have it flush mounted to the contour of the console?
Are you going to countersink the control panel at all or try and have it flush mounted to the contour of the console?
#33
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Originally Posted by sgt0704
that's sweet, but would there be a way for you to do the climate controls in an electronic manner? you know, have it ran off the touchscreen?
There is also a stand alone circuit board designed to control 3 servo's specifically aimed at automating car air conditioning systems. There's some more info in this thread.
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/gene...-controls.html
BTW, I may be ditching my PC for good so I won't need to relocate my controls. I'll probably just give away my extended cable to someone who needs it. All I need is the length you want and I'll finish it and ship it out. Just not right now, though. I need to find a good head unit for my tunes first.
#35
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That was one of my ideas for a subwoofer enclosure. Frankly I never figured out a good way to internally strengthen them, seal them and mount them. The conga enclosures are pretty heavy by themselves, plus I was really surprised by how heavy the subs are. You can throw your back out lifting those things. So I was trying to come up with a more conventional box design, but have a unique twist to it. https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....&postcount=162
#36
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You don't want to move the fuel tank into the t-top well in the trunk. Fuel tanks today are generally placed under the rear seat or over the rear axle so they are protected in a rear-end collision. There were some cases a while back with Ford Crown Vics and Ford Mustangs which at the time still had the fuel tank far rearward where the car could burst into flame in a rear-end collision. This was a real concern for police since they drive Ford Crown Vics and I think some of those cases involved police. I don't remember if they moved the fuel tank, but they added addition braces/shielding to prevent the tank from being punctured and spread the forces around the tank.
#40
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Originally Posted by JasonWW
the tank itself will have sheetmetal separating it from the interior of the car.