Anyone Make a Pre-Made 'Big 3' Kit for F-Body?
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Hope this question hasn't been asked a million times before (did a search and didn't find anything):
Does anyone make a pre-made 'Big 3' Kit for F-Body?
-Jay-
Does anyone make a pre-made 'Big 3' Kit for F-Body?
-Jay-
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BIG 3
(1) Upgraded Size Cable - Alternator to Battery
(2) Upgraded Size Cable - Battery to Starter
(3) Upgraded Size Cable - Battery to Junction Box
Normally used when installing aftermarket Hi-Amp alternators in conjunction with hi power audio equipment that put an increased current demand on the car electrical system...
(1) Upgraded Size Cable - Alternator to Battery
(2) Upgraded Size Cable - Battery to Starter
(3) Upgraded Size Cable - Battery to Junction Box
Normally used when installing aftermarket Hi-Amp alternators in conjunction with hi power audio equipment that put an increased current demand on the car electrical system...
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Yeah, I scrolled down and found the LS1 version. Their set includes:
Positive Cables
Battery to Starter
Battery to Alternator
Battery to Junction Box
Negative Cables
Battery to Engine
Battery to Frame
And yes, he will extend the correct wires if you've done the !wire mod. They are using 2 GA wire for all the cables with solid copper ends crimped & soldered, shrink wrapped, flame retardant loom, and boots for the battery and alternator ends.
I'm sure it's more $$ than doing it yourself - but I don't have the time to mess around with making the cables - so for me it's worth it.
Positive Cables
Battery to Starter
Battery to Alternator
Battery to Junction Box
Negative Cables
Battery to Engine
Battery to Frame
And yes, he will extend the correct wires if you've done the !wire mod. They are using 2 GA wire for all the cables with solid copper ends crimped & soldered, shrink wrapped, flame retardant loom, and boots for the battery and alternator ends.
I'm sure it's more $$ than doing it yourself - but I don't have the time to mess around with making the cables - so for me it's worth it.
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Same here... I don't have time to hunt around for the thick wiring, connectors, and I don't have the heavy duty crimping tools either so it was worth it. Btw I got on a GP a while back so it was a lot less.
-B
-B
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I swear, anytime I hear someone mention the "big 3" I want to just slap someone.
It just annoys me that upgrading some wiring has become such a popular mod, that it has earned it's own name, and therefore everyone wants to do this, whether their car needs it or not.
ok, let's go over this kit here.
battery to starter: pointless. your car starts now just fine, right ? so what's the point in upgrading the wire ? Did your system upgrades put more strain on the starter ? no. This is one wire I cannot see any justification for upgrading unless you replaced the starter with a bigger one.
battery to alternator: makes sense if you are running a larger alternator, or you are pushing the stock alternator to it's limits.
battery to junction box: makes sense if you have more accesories running from your fused junction box. but realisticly, any accessory added that taps into the stock wiring is not going to draw enough current to justify upgrading this wire.
ground cable:
battery to engine: well, this is a new wire. The battery in an ls1 does not ground directly to the engine. The engine grounds to the frame.
battery to frame: this upgrade can be justified if you have a large system.
It just annoys me that upgrading some wiring has become such a popular mod, that it has earned it's own name, and therefore everyone wants to do this, whether their car needs it or not.
ok, let's go over this kit here.
battery to starter: pointless. your car starts now just fine, right ? so what's the point in upgrading the wire ? Did your system upgrades put more strain on the starter ? no. This is one wire I cannot see any justification for upgrading unless you replaced the starter with a bigger one.
battery to alternator: makes sense if you are running a larger alternator, or you are pushing the stock alternator to it's limits.
battery to junction box: makes sense if you have more accesories running from your fused junction box. but realisticly, any accessory added that taps into the stock wiring is not going to draw enough current to justify upgrading this wire.
ground cable:
battery to engine: well, this is a new wire. The battery in an ls1 does not ground directly to the engine. The engine grounds to the frame.
battery to frame: this upgrade can be justified if you have a large system.
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Theres nothing wrong with replacing the wires with bigger better wires.
Its not particularly necessary but every little bit helps.
I think the ground is the only one that is really necessary as far as a 'normal' system goes
Its not particularly necessary but every little bit helps.
I think the ground is the only one that is really necessary as far as a 'normal' system goes
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Originally Posted by Mike @ FbodyAudio
I swear, anytime I hear someone mention the "big 3" I want to just slap someone.
It just annoys me that upgrading some wiring has become such a popular mod, that it has earned it's own name, and therefore everyone wants to do this, whether their car needs it or not.
ok, let's go over this kit here.
battery to starter: pointless. your car starts now just fine, right ? so what's the point in upgrading the wire ? Did your system upgrades put more strain on the starter ? no. This is one wire I cannot see any justification for upgrading unless you replaced the starter with a bigger one.
battery to alternator: makes sense if you are running a larger alternator, or you are pushing the stock alternator to it's limits.
battery to junction box: makes sense if you have more accesories running from your fused junction box. but realisticly, any accessory added that taps into the stock wiring is not going to draw enough current to justify upgrading this wire.
ground cable:
battery to engine: well, this is a new wire. The battery in an ls1 does not ground directly to the engine. The engine grounds to the frame.
battery to frame: this upgrade can be justified if you have a large system.
It just annoys me that upgrading some wiring has become such a popular mod, that it has earned it's own name, and therefore everyone wants to do this, whether their car needs it or not.
ok, let's go over this kit here.
battery to starter: pointless. your car starts now just fine, right ? so what's the point in upgrading the wire ? Did your system upgrades put more strain on the starter ? no. This is one wire I cannot see any justification for upgrading unless you replaced the starter with a bigger one.
battery to alternator: makes sense if you are running a larger alternator, or you are pushing the stock alternator to it's limits.
battery to junction box: makes sense if you have more accesories running from your fused junction box. but realisticly, any accessory added that taps into the stock wiring is not going to draw enough current to justify upgrading this wire.
ground cable:
battery to engine: well, this is a new wire. The battery in an ls1 does not ground directly to the engine. The engine grounds to the frame.
battery to frame: this upgrade can be justified if you have a large system.
-B
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Well I AM doing this mod because I need it - makes just as much sense as the !Wire Mod - whose only purpose is to clean up a 12in section of wiring from being seen - but everyone wants to do that.
I find that with the combo of my:
Oil Cooler Cooling Fan
Tranny Cooler Cooling Fan
100W Driving Lights
Upgraded Halogen Low/High Beams
Sub Amp putting out 500W/Channel
Regular Amp putting out 150W/Channel
That at night, when all of this is running (including the stock cooling fans) that my lights would dim and the volt gage drop well into the yellow zone.
This is with a brand new Optima Red Top and a perfectly good stock alternator (if you consider the weak output of the stock alt 'good').
The car only has 30K miles on it - I installed a 200A aftermarket alternator that has hi idle amps and just want to finish off the job with some upgraded wiring.
I agree that not all the wires included are needed - but as Blown383 stated - how do you upgrade 1 or 2 wires when they are all crimped together?
Replacing them all just makes for a clean install.
It may be 'slapping territory' but just think how much you could make selling these kits to all the people that want to do it anyway.
Sounds like a little bit of 'sour grapes' to me
I find that with the combo of my:
Oil Cooler Cooling Fan
Tranny Cooler Cooling Fan
100W Driving Lights
Upgraded Halogen Low/High Beams
Sub Amp putting out 500W/Channel
Regular Amp putting out 150W/Channel
That at night, when all of this is running (including the stock cooling fans) that my lights would dim and the volt gage drop well into the yellow zone.
This is with a brand new Optima Red Top and a perfectly good stock alternator (if you consider the weak output of the stock alt 'good').
The car only has 30K miles on it - I installed a 200A aftermarket alternator that has hi idle amps and just want to finish off the job with some upgraded wiring.
I agree that not all the wires included are needed - but as Blown383 stated - how do you upgrade 1 or 2 wires when they are all crimped together?
Replacing them all just makes for a clean install.
It may be 'slapping territory' but just think how much you could make selling these kits to all the people that want to do it anyway.
Sounds like a little bit of 'sour grapes' to me
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Originally Posted by Mike @ FbodyAudio
I swear, anytime I hear someone mention the "big 3" I want to just slap someone.
It just annoys me that upgrading some wiring has become such a popular mod, that it has earned it's own name, and therefore everyone wants to do this, whether their car needs it or not.
ok, let's go over this kit here.
battery to starter: pointless. your car starts now just fine, right ? so what's the point in upgrading the wire ? Did your system upgrades put more strain on the starter ? no. This is one wire I cannot see any justification for upgrading unless you replaced the starter with a bigger one.
battery to alternator: makes sense if you are running a larger alternator, or you are pushing the stock alternator to it's limits.
battery to junction box: makes sense if you have more accesories running from your fused junction box. but realisticly, any accessory added that taps into the stock wiring is not going to draw enough current to justify upgrading this wire.
ground cable:
battery to engine: well, this is a new wire. The battery in an ls1 does not ground directly to the engine. The engine grounds to the frame.
battery to frame: this upgrade can be justified if you have a large system.
It just annoys me that upgrading some wiring has become such a popular mod, that it has earned it's own name, and therefore everyone wants to do this, whether their car needs it or not.
ok, let's go over this kit here.
battery to starter: pointless. your car starts now just fine, right ? so what's the point in upgrading the wire ? Did your system upgrades put more strain on the starter ? no. This is one wire I cannot see any justification for upgrading unless you replaced the starter with a bigger one.
battery to alternator: makes sense if you are running a larger alternator, or you are pushing the stock alternator to it's limits.
battery to junction box: makes sense if you have more accesories running from your fused junction box. but realisticly, any accessory added that taps into the stock wiring is not going to draw enough current to justify upgrading this wire.
ground cable:
battery to engine: well, this is a new wire. The battery in an ls1 does not ground directly to the engine. The engine grounds to the frame.
battery to frame: this upgrade can be justified if you have a large system.
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I looked at trying to build and sell some kit's myself, but I was deployed before I could put anything together.
I'd upgrade the GND: Chassis to Battery. Engine to Battery./Frame, and the POS wire from the Alt to the Battery. If you are drawing more current from the Alt because of the Drain of a stereo, you'll see a measured increase in voltage. To just do it and you aren't increasing the current drain from the charging system won't hurt anything, but isn't neccessary.
1Quick, I'd say to definitly do it. Just ignor the POS Battery term to the Starter. It's not needed unless you have a 15:1 compression ratio and a mega starter in there.
So After typing all this out, I'm in agreement with Mike except on the junction box wire only because it's a popular place to bolt on the main power wire for a system. Then it makes sence since the current takes the path of least resistance, and a larger wire from the Battery to the Terminal is that path.
I'd upgrade the GND: Chassis to Battery. Engine to Battery./Frame, and the POS wire from the Alt to the Battery. If you are drawing more current from the Alt because of the Drain of a stereo, you'll see a measured increase in voltage. To just do it and you aren't increasing the current drain from the charging system won't hurt anything, but isn't neccessary.
1Quick, I'd say to definitly do it. Just ignor the POS Battery term to the Starter. It's not needed unless you have a 15:1 compression ratio and a mega starter in there.
So After typing all this out, I'm in agreement with Mike except on the junction box wire only because it's a popular place to bolt on the main power wire for a system. Then it makes sence since the current takes the path of least resistance, and a larger wire from the Battery to the Terminal is that path.