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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 11:34 AM
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As far as aftermarket speakers go have most of you removed the sail panel speakers and just kept the door and hatch speakers? I'm planning on putting Alpine Type-s speakers at every corner and running a subthump stealth box with a 10" L5. Ill most likely be running a JVC KD-AVX2 HU.

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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 12:42 PM
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I'd run only speakers up front. If you run hatch speakers, there's no reason not to run sail panel speakers.
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 12:44 PM
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Wouldnt retaining eiher the sail panel or rear hatch speakers give more of a 'surround sound' effect with the mids?
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 01:03 PM
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Anyways would I be good just running the type-s speakers off the HU or should I look into amplifying them?
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 01:12 PM
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Instead of buying multiple sets of speakers, you should put one really nice set of components up front and amp them with a new HU. Just my .02.
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 05:48 PM
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If you like surround sound, you should put your Alpines in the doors and sail panels and forget about the hatch area. The hatch speakers are only 4" anyway. If you prefer the "concert" sound, you'll want your sound stage up front so you shouldn't use anything except the door speakers (and sub of course).
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 09:40 PM
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i have infinty coax's in the doors and infinty 6x9's in the back. I have them hooked up to a Jensen HU. It doesnt really impress anyone wiht hte sound, mostly because there is a huge "hole" in the back seats. The hatch speakers are, in my mind, just too far in the back to really have a good image in the drivers seat.

So ive decided to completly revamp my system with an Alpine CDA-9857 HU, Alpine SPR-17ls components in the doors, and im moving the 6.5's in hte doors now to the back seat. I am also hooking those 4 up to a KAC-8452 70 watt per channel amp and putting a stealthbox, type r, and 1800 watt kenwood in the back as well.

Give me about three more weeks and ill tell you FOR SURE which setup to go with!
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Old Feb 5, 2007 | 02:42 PM
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Until I step up the HU from the stock unit will I be able to run 1 S10L5 2-ohm sub in a stealthbox with a KAC-9102D Kenwood amp? This way I can just piece the system together and add the JVC HU later on with the Type-S speakers.

Would this work?

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Old Feb 6, 2007 | 11:58 PM
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t t t
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Old Feb 7, 2007 | 01:20 AM
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If you dont think that you will miss the rears try this....

Turn the fader all the way to the front and listen to those for a day or so.
Rear fill makes a big difference in my opinion
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Old Feb 7, 2007 | 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by TruDualed95Z
Until I step up the HU from the stock unit will I be able to run 1 S10L5 2-ohm sub in a stealthbox with a KAC-9102D Kenwood amp? This way I can just piece the system together and add the JVC HU later on with the Type-S speakers.

Would this work?
anyone?
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Old Feb 8, 2007 | 08:34 AM
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Old Feb 9, 2007 | 11:05 AM
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Old Feb 9, 2007 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by TruDualed95Z
Until I step up the HU from the stock unit will I be able to run 1 S10L5 2-ohm sub in a stealthbox with a KAC-9102D Kenwood amp? This way I can just piece the system together and add the JVC HU later on with the Type-S speakers.

Would this work?
Since nobody else seems to want to answer this question that has been asked and answered hundreds of times - yes you can. I didn't look up the specs for the items you listed so I'll assume that they're compatible (i.e. the amp is 2-ohm stable for running the 2-ohm sub). You will need a line output converter to provide low-level input to the amp from the speaker-level output of the head unit. Just connect it all up and it will work fine. Then when you change the head unit you will be able to eliminate the LOC and connect the amp to the line outs of the new head unit.
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Old Feb 9, 2007 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
Since nobody else seems to want to answer this question that has been asked and answered hundreds of times - yes you can. I didn't look up the specs for the items you listed so I'll assume that they're compatible (i.e. the amp is 2-ohm stable for running the 2-ohm sub). You will need a line output converter to provide low-level input to the amp from the speaker-level output of the head unit. Just connect it all up and it will work fine. Then when you change the head unit you will be able to eliminate the LOC and connect the amp to the line outs of the new head unit.
Thank you, and yes everything is compatible.
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