looking for sub around $100, what do you think
02-16-2007, 05:43 PM
#21
TECH Addict
In that test, lower F3/F6 numbers means lower bass extension, which is good. The graph is SPL which is overall volume in theoretical conditions (meaning do not expect that exact response in real-world usage, but you CAN compare subs against each other).
I'd probably go with an IDQ10v2 out of that list I did, or the Dayton. Dual 2 ohm if your amp only goes down to 4 ohms. The 11Kv.2 isn't a bad choice (if their specs are anywhere close to real, see below), either, and it should take that amp fine. (Edit to note: There may be even better subs that I didn't test, but I can tell you that Audiobahn and Type-R aren't even in the running)
I don't HATE ED (lots do, with some good reasons, check caraudioforum for example) but I wouldn't consider myself a follower of them either, mostly because the specs they publish aren't always the truth (which means my test may be using incorrect specs from them) as they have been known to change design stuff and not update specs, and refuse to give out real specs... I won't really buy from a company like that. Plus, they can take a while to ship stuff while saying they HAVE shipped it, and their packaging is not the greatest (even though they do replace items, it still sucks to have to wait)
I'd probably go with an IDQ10v2 out of that list I did, or the Dayton. Dual 2 ohm if your amp only goes down to 4 ohms. The 11Kv.2 isn't a bad choice (if their specs are anywhere close to real, see below), either, and it should take that amp fine. (Edit to note: There may be even better subs that I didn't test, but I can tell you that Audiobahn and Type-R aren't even in the running)
I don't HATE ED (lots do, with some good reasons, check caraudioforum for example) but I wouldn't consider myself a follower of them either, mostly because the specs they publish aren't always the truth (which means my test may be using incorrect specs from them) as they have been known to change design stuff and not update specs, and refuse to give out real specs... I won't really buy from a company like that. Plus, they can take a while to ship stuff while saying they HAVE shipped it, and their packaging is not the greatest (even though they do replace items, it still sucks to have to wait)
Last edited by dragonrage; 02-16-2007 at 06:04 PM.
02-16-2007, 06:13 PM
#22
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u recamend the idq 10 for me when it says it only takes 300 watts rms and i have 460 watts rms to use?
i am just wondering cause the 11Kv.2 says it takes up to 600 watts rms
i am just wondering cause the 11Kv.2 says it takes up to 600 watts rms
02-16-2007, 06:18 PM
#23
TECH Addict
What specific amp do you have? I don't forsee a problem with the IDQ and power handling, especially in a small sealed box. I wouldn't doubt it could take double its rating in such a config.
02-18-2007, 01:34 AM
#25
TECH Addict
Go for the Dayton. www.partsexpress.com
Or enlarge the hole and go for the DIYMA. It's a great sub that'll take a lot of power and has a ton of Xmax.
Another good sub in this price range is: http://www.tcsounds.com/db500.htm - but they're out of stock of the 10" - the TC1000 is $10 more and is a slight step up. Both do well in small sealed boxes.
Edit: Seems the TC-1000 only does well in the 12" variant. See thread in my sig for more info.
Or enlarge the hole and go for the DIYMA. It's a great sub that'll take a lot of power and has a ton of Xmax.
Another good sub in this price range is: http://www.tcsounds.com/db500.htm - but they're out of stock of the 10" - the TC1000 is $10 more and is a slight step up. Both do well in small sealed boxes.
Edit: Seems the TC-1000 only does well in the 12" variant. See thread in my sig for more info.
Last edited by dragonrage; 02-19-2007 at 09:48 PM.
