Sub install
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,678
Likes: 14
From: san antonio, tx
Sub install I have a question.... I want to install a 12" sub in my car with a separate amp without touching the rest of the factory speaker/amp. Can this be done??
TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,591
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From: Massachusetts
What do you mean by touching? You can put a LOC on one of the current channels, run that to a sub amp and add a sub, yes. It'll require tapping into your current wires... But you can keep everything else stock if that's what you mean.
Most 12" subs will overpower the stock speakers, though...
Most 12" subs will overpower the stock speakers, though...
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,678
Likes: 14
From: san antonio, tx
Not to sound dumb but what do you mean by LOC? Tapping would be ok. I just dont want to interrupt the rest of the system. I removed the sail panel speaker and was just looking to get the bass back. What wires would I have to tap into??
it is a level converter you can get it at any stereo shop usually 15$ it is a box that converts your speaker wire into rca outputs, splice it in to your rear speaker left/right and run your rca's to the back, some people dont like them but i used one for awhile with my treo 12, when i finally put my HU in i noticed a little difference just because the HP?LP filters in the deck
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Originally Posted by blkbird
Which speaker do I have to tap into or does it matter??
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,678
Likes: 14
From: san antonio, tx
Originally Posted by MeentSS02
If you are looking for the bass signal, and your car is just like my Camaro was when it had a stock stereo, you'll be going after the speakers right behind your passenger's/driver's seats. Those handle the bass with the factory system, so that's the signal you'll want.
It really doesn't matter, but tapping the rear input wires to the amp are the best ones to use.
The deck feeds four normal full range signals to the amp. So if you tap into the input wires at the amp you are skipping a layer of distortion. Many people just use the speaker wires which also works, and it is less work because you don't need to identify the right wires to tap. But it is another layer of distortion you might as well avoid.
A "LOC" is a scotch lock splicing connector. You can buy them at department and hardware stores and they are an easy way to tap into the factory wires.
http://www3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/...er/output_html
It's generally not recommended to use them in a higher end install but since your working with factory wiring they aren't really going to hurt you. Just make sure to get the right size for the wires you are tapping (which are very small). Too small risks cutting the wire and too big might not connect. They are a fine tool but are frowned upon in good istalls because it doesn't make sense to use high quality wiring and push it through a scotchlok.
Realize that you'll still need to run a dedicated power line from your battery (FUSED), a remote turn-on (tapped at radio or acc panel), and a ground wire (local at amp to closest ground).
The deck feeds four normal full range signals to the amp. So if you tap into the input wires at the amp you are skipping a layer of distortion. Many people just use the speaker wires which also works, and it is less work because you don't need to identify the right wires to tap. But it is another layer of distortion you might as well avoid.
A "LOC" is a scotch lock splicing connector. You can buy them at department and hardware stores and they are an easy way to tap into the factory wires.
http://www3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/...er/output_html
It's generally not recommended to use them in a higher end install but since your working with factory wiring they aren't really going to hurt you. Just make sure to get the right size for the wires you are tapping (which are very small). Too small risks cutting the wire and too big might not connect. They are a fine tool but are frowned upon in good istalls because it doesn't make sense to use high quality wiring and push it through a scotchlok.
Realize that you'll still need to run a dedicated power line from your battery (FUSED), a remote turn-on (tapped at radio or acc panel), and a ground wire (local at amp to closest ground).
I reasoned myself into splicing my line level converter off the front speakers wires coming out of the radio. Like was said before, less distortion splicing before the amp. My main reasoning for going off the fronts though was the stock subs sound like crap if my equalizer bass is turned up more than 60%. By going onto the fronts I can crank the base up and "Fade" (i think) the sound more towards the front of the car. This gives me good base coming out of the stockers and since the fronts still carry a bass signal I get awesome sounding bass coming out of my 12" in the trunk. Had I of gone off the back I'd of been stuck with only being able to turn the bass up half way before the stockers began to sound like crap, limiting the amount of bass my aftermarket sub would get.
For the Remote Turn On for the amp, I went off the antennae wire. If memory serves me right its got good enough voltage and its the pink wire off the radio.
For the Remote Turn On for the amp, I went off the antennae wire. If memory serves me right its got good enough voltage and its the pink wire off the radio.