technical question about bridging the monsoon amp
technical question about bridging the monsoon amp Hi guys. I have a TA with the monsoon system. I'm going to replace the sail panel subs, but I wanted advice from some experts.
Yes, I have searched and read quite a lot about this, but I need clarification from someone with superior knowledge.
OK, so if I replace a DVC sub in the sail panel with 8 ohm SVC sub, can I bridge the two independent amplifier channels into one sub and acheive a 4 ohm load to each channel of the amplifier?
Is there any benefit to doing it that way versus just using one channel of the amp and a 4 ohm SVC sub (leaving the other channel unplugged)??
I hope that makes sense. Thanks in advance for any useful technical insight.
John
Yes, I have searched and read quite a lot about this, but I need clarification from someone with superior knowledge.
OK, so if I replace a DVC sub in the sail panel with 8 ohm SVC sub, can I bridge the two independent amplifier channels into one sub and acheive a 4 ohm load to each channel of the amplifier?
Is there any benefit to doing it that way versus just using one channel of the amp and a 4 ohm SVC sub (leaving the other channel unplugged)??
I hope that makes sense. Thanks in advance for any useful technical insight.
John
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
No, the Monsoon amp is not bridgeable. Bridging is more than just combining channels - the channels have to have inverted signals. Besides, connecting two channels of an amp to an 8-ohm speaker doesn't produce a 4-ohm load. That only happens when you connect two speakers in parallel - a single 8-ohm SVC speaker can never produce a 4-ohm load no matter how you wire it.
Since it seems you haven't purchased your speakers yet, your best bet is to get the proper DVC subs and wire them in the factory configuration. If that's not an option then make sure you get 4-ohm SVC subs that are relatively sensitive (efficient) and connect them to only one of the two channels on each side. You will lose about half your total power which would result in a 3dB loss of volume unless your new subs are at least 3dB more sensitive than the stock ones (almost any decent sub or mid-bass will do that).
Since it seems you haven't purchased your speakers yet, your best bet is to get the proper DVC subs and wire them in the factory configuration. If that's not an option then make sure you get 4-ohm SVC subs that are relatively sensitive (efficient) and connect them to only one of the two channels on each side. You will lose about half your total power which would result in a 3dB loss of volume unless your new subs are at least 3dB more sensitive than the stock ones (almost any decent sub or mid-bass will do that).
Last edited by WhiteBird00; Mar 26, 2008 at 03:30 PM.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Champaign/Chicagoland
One thing I have always wanted to see someone try is use both channels to power voice coils independently on a dual voice coil sub of the proper impedance voice coils.
Not the best way, but with a cheap 10" in the stealth location or something like that, it might be advantageous to use all of the sail panel power to power a single 10" instead for someone not looking for another amp. Probably 100-150RMS...who knows, I think it would be interesting to try with a more sensitive sub made to handle only about 200 RMS.
Not the best way, but with a cheap 10" in the stealth location or something like that, it might be advantageous to use all of the sail panel power to power a single 10" instead for someone not looking for another amp. Probably 100-150RMS...who knows, I think it would be interesting to try with a more sensitive sub made to handle only about 200 RMS.
White Bird, thanks for the reply.
What you say about the impendences sounds correct to me, but I read somewhere else in another thread that crap about bridging the amplifier. I had never heard of that theory, so that's why I asked first before ruining ****.
So what will happen if I hook both amplifier channels from the stock DVC sub to a 4 ohm SVC sub in parallel? What about if I hook them in Series?
Any suggestions on replacing the DVC subs with superior DVC replacements? The stock ones are junk and I've blown two sets already. It must be all the "jungle music", as my old man calls it.
I haven't had any luck finding a 6.5" DVC sub. RatShack used to make them many years ago, but they are probably no better than the OEM units...
If I go with a 4 ohm SVC sub, I'll probably just get kicker freeairs or something similar that is easy to install and has a good SPL rating. I'm going to keep the stock amp, so I need to stay within it's range power-wise.
Keep the advice coming; this topic hasn't been beat to death nearly enough!
What you say about the impendences sounds correct to me, but I read somewhere else in another thread that crap about bridging the amplifier. I had never heard of that theory, so that's why I asked first before ruining ****.
So what will happen if I hook both amplifier channels from the stock DVC sub to a 4 ohm SVC sub in parallel? What about if I hook them in Series?
Any suggestions on replacing the DVC subs with superior DVC replacements? The stock ones are junk and I've blown two sets already. It must be all the "jungle music", as my old man calls it.
I haven't had any luck finding a 6.5" DVC sub. RatShack used to make them many years ago, but they are probably no better than the OEM units...If I go with a 4 ohm SVC sub, I'll probably just get kicker freeairs or something similar that is easy to install and has a good SPL rating. I'm going to keep the stock amp, so I need to stay within it's range power-wise.
Keep the advice coming; this topic hasn't been beat to death nearly enough!
Last edited by Johns98TA; Mar 26, 2008 at 03:56 PM.
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,003
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From: Champaign/Chicagoland
You can't wire the voice coils in series or parallel. That's why what I said isn't the BEST way....but running a cheap sub off the factory amp -- who cares. Each voice coil would have to be wired to one pair of sail panel speakers as if they were separate speakers entirely.
Sounds like you would be fine just using nicer sail subs - there are several options available, Ian at KEE AUDIO (forum sponsor) has several choices. If you search around or look at the FAQ stickies -- there is also more information and a write up that may help you.
There are a couple of options available for you in replacing the sail subs with other DVC subs -- I would recommend doing so rather than an SVC replacement.
Sounds like you would be fine just using nicer sail subs - there are several options available, Ian at KEE AUDIO (forum sponsor) has several choices. If you search around or look at the FAQ stickies -- there is also more information and a write up that may help you.
There are a couple of options available for you in replacing the sail subs with other DVC subs -- I would recommend doing so rather than an SVC replacement.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
White Bird, thanks for the reply.
What you say about the impendences sounds correct to me, but I read somewhere else in another thread that crap about bridging the amplifier. I had never heard of that theory, so that's why I asked first before ruining ****.
So what will happen if I hook both channels from the stock DVC sub to a 4 ohm SVC sub in parallel? What about if I hook them in Series?
What you say about the impendences sounds correct to me, but I read somewhere else in another thread that crap about bridging the amplifier. I had never heard of that theory, so that's why I asked first before ruining ****.
So what will happen if I hook both channels from the stock DVC sub to a 4 ohm SVC sub in parallel? What about if I hook them in Series?
Any suggestions on replacing the DVC subs with superior DVC replacements? The stock ones are junk and I've blown two sets already. It must be all the "jungle music", as my old man calls it. I haven't had any luck finding a 6.5" DVC sub. RatShack used to make them many years ago, but they are probably no better than the OEM units...
I haven't had any luck finding a 6.5" DVC sub. RatShack used to make them many years ago, but they are probably no better than the OEM units... OK I'm not sure you understood what I'm asking.
I want to know what will happen if I throw away the stock DVC sub and connect both amplifier channels to a 4 ohm SVC sub. I can connect them in parallel, or I can connect them in series. I'm just curious what would happen, and if it would be advantageous versus just running one amplifier channel to the replacement 4 ohm SVC sub.
Does that make more sense?
I want to know what will happen if I throw away the stock DVC sub and connect both amplifier channels to a 4 ohm SVC sub. I can connect them in parallel, or I can connect them in series. I'm just curious what would happen, and if it would be advantageous versus just running one amplifier channel to the replacement 4 ohm SVC sub.
Does that make more sense?
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
OK I'm not sure you understood what I'm asking.
I want to know what will happen if I throw away the stock DVC sub and connect both amplifier channels to a 4 ohm SVC sub. I can connect them in parallel, or I can connect them in series. I'm just curious what would happen, and if it would be advantageous versus just running one amplifier channel to the replacement 4 ohm SVC sub.
Does that make more sense?
I want to know what will happen if I throw away the stock DVC sub and connect both amplifier channels to a 4 ohm SVC sub. I can connect them in parallel, or I can connect them in series. I'm just curious what would happen, and if it would be advantageous versus just running one amplifier channel to the replacement 4 ohm SVC sub.
Does that make more sense?
Now, if you're thinking of connecting the positive from one pair and the negative from the other - DON'T! That is how bridging is done but the Monsoon amp is not bridgeable.
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Champaign/Chicagoland
IGNORE MY POST ABOUT POWERING TWO VOICE COILS SEPARATELY....FORGOT THAT YOU HAVE A TOTAL OF 4 PAIRS OF WIRES (assumed Camaro)
In your case, the best you can do is try better DVC subs and go from there.
(I'd still like to see a Camaro owner try what I mentioned though)
In your case, the best you can do is try better DVC subs and go from there.
(I'd still like to see a Camaro owner try what I mentioned though)
OK remember I have a TA with two amp channels per sub.
So when I say parallel, I mean connect red1 to red2 to positive speaker terminal, and black1 to black2 to negative speaker terminal on the SVC sub. So I'd have both amp channels connected to the speaker in parallel with each other. What will that do?
And when I say series, I mean connecting Red1 to postive speaker terminal, black1 to red2, and black2 to negative speaker terminal. What will that do?
I wish I could draw you a damn pic.
Did that make more sense?
So when I say parallel, I mean connect red1 to red2 to positive speaker terminal, and black1 to black2 to negative speaker terminal on the SVC sub. So I'd have both amp channels connected to the speaker in parallel with each other. What will that do?
And when I say series, I mean connecting Red1 to postive speaker terminal, black1 to red2, and black2 to negative speaker terminal. What will that do?
I wish I could draw you a damn pic.
Did that make more sense?
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Yes, except that your "series" configuration is similar to bridging and results in a dead short between the positive and negative in the middle connection. That results in letting all the smoke out of your amp and once you let all the smoke out of an electronic device, it no longer works.
The "parallel" connection is just overloading both channels onto a single speaker. I don't think this works because those who have mentioned trying it have also mentioned that they have no bass from the sail panels. As fredmr39 said, you could try it with some really cheap sub that you don't mind destroying if things go wrong.
The "parallel" connection is just overloading both channels onto a single speaker. I don't think this works because those who have mentioned trying it have also mentioned that they have no bass from the sail panels. As fredmr39 said, you could try it with some really cheap sub that you don't mind destroying if things go wrong.
Yeah I know all about smoke shows. I was just curious what would happen, as I like to ask around first before I go frying ****. My car is pretty nice and I'd like to keep it that way!
So basically I should just buy a pair of high-spl 4 ohm SVC subs, connect them to one amp channel each (leaving two channels unused), and STFU. Does that sum it up?
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,329
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Well, if you really don't want to buy DVC subs then a good pair of SVC subs connected to a single channel on each side will work nicely.
...The "parallel" connection is just overloading both channels onto a single speaker. I don't think this works because those who have mentioned trying it have also mentioned that they have no bass from the sail panels. As fredmr39 said, you could try it with some really cheap sub that you don't mind destroying if things go wrong.
BTW, i'm talking about a t/a with the dual 4 ohm coils per speaker at the B pillar position.
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From: Massachusetts
The "parallel" connection is just overloading both channels onto a single speaker. I don't think this works because those who have mentioned trying it have also mentioned that they have no bass from the sail panels. As fredmr39 said, you could try it with some really cheap sub that you don't mind destroying if things go wrong.
