Anyone here capable of/doing speaker repairs?
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From: North East, MD
Anyone here capable of/doing speaker repairs? I have a set of $400 Focal CV-690 paper weight 6x9's I would like the one fixed if possible. It has a busted lead and needs attached to the frame again. Anyone here capable? See pics. Or if someone wants to make an offer the other one is good and I have the X-overs and all.
Last edited by Intercooler2; Dec 9, 2008 at 08:47 PM.
Thread Starter
11 Second Club
iTrader: (24)
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,554
Likes: 2
From: North East, MD
Here's a guy with a good write-up on solder splicing. You can do it, but the key is having overlap in the wires. (And not melting the stuff around your work with the iron.) The key is having overlap in the wires, so you'll need an extra piece to bridge the break.
http://jaguar.professional.org/electrics/splicing.php
There are mechanical splices, but I imagine they would weigh on the coil and impact the sound. (Soldering may even do the same.)
http://jaguar.professional.org/electrics/splicing.php
There are mechanical splices, but I imagine they would weigh on the coil and impact the sound. (Soldering may even do the same.)
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From: Showing Italians the power of LS1
Those woven tinsel leads can be a bitch to solder. You really need to do 3 things:
1- Tin both sides to be connected- coat the wires on both ends with solder, Just enough to change the copper color of the leasd to silver at the ends, not a blob of solder.
2- You will need to use a heatsink (alligator clip with a wafer of metal attached to it) clipped to the side closest to the cone. This needs to be done so the heat from the soldering iron doesn't burn the voice coil or voice coil former.
3- Clean the copper wire well with alcohol before soldering, and use some rosin on it before tinning the wire. Otherwise the solder may not stick to the wire.
I have tried this a few times and it only worked one time. If you end up with a blob of solder on the connection it will slap against the cone causing a rattling sound and eventually fail. So remember with soldering, less solder is better!
1- Tin both sides to be connected- coat the wires on both ends with solder, Just enough to change the copper color of the leasd to silver at the ends, not a blob of solder.
2- You will need to use a heatsink (alligator clip with a wafer of metal attached to it) clipped to the side closest to the cone. This needs to be done so the heat from the soldering iron doesn't burn the voice coil or voice coil former.
3- Clean the copper wire well with alcohol before soldering, and use some rosin on it before tinning the wire. Otherwise the solder may not stick to the wire.
I have tried this a few times and it only worked one time. If you end up with a blob of solder on the connection it will slap against the cone causing a rattling sound and eventually fail. So remember with soldering, less solder is better!
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