Dissapointed in the DBs
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From: Pensacola, FL
It is called Fatmat on Ebay, it is kinda like dynamat with a differant name. It is the 100 sq.ft roll to do every thing from the floor to the headliner and the doors.
I am currently in Daytona beach lookingm for apartments so downloading is not possible, but when I get home I will for sure get to downloading.
I am currently in Daytona beach lookingm for apartments so downloading is not possible, but when I get home I will for sure get to downloading.
It is called Fatmat on Ebay, it is kinda like dynamat with a differant name. It is the 100 sq.ft roll to do every thing from the floor to the headliner and the doors.
I am currently in Daytona beach lookingm for apartments so downloading is not possible, but when I get home I will for sure get to downloading.
I am currently in Daytona beach lookingm for apartments so downloading is not possible, but when I get home I will for sure get to downloading.
Oh no! Do some research. I placed an order through E-Bay to try FatMat and they cancelled a paid for order on me without my consent. I gave them their first negative over it then they tried to blackmail me to remove it. I later read that is basically no different than Peal and Seal you can get at Lowes. It is asphalt/butyl based but not the good butyl like Second Skin. That's what I bought and love it.
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Thanks for that link. That explains why the Damplifier I bought like 5 years ago melted and failed on me in my trunk. It used to be asphalt based and now it's butyl. I'll probably try it again when I need some.
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Well that sucks about the Fatmat I am glad someone told me. I got a message from ebay a couple days ago saying that since the economy is down soon buyers are not able to leave negitve feedback, that is really what sucks. Well I will do some searching on the link above. Great info before I spent my money.
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Yeah I don't want my doors to do that. I am done with trying to get more. The cuncussion in my car would push the top of the glass off the door but not even close to that.
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The only reason I said 140 is because a buddies truck did one 150 at a bass show and mine seemed to a little bit softer then his. Well I glad I set the light bulb off to go see what your Civic does. I want to know. What is a IDQ? Would rolling up the windows have any effect or no?
didn't want to read through the whole thread but, yes roll up the windows you will see quite a bit of gain in db's. why do you think in competitions the windows are usually rolled all the way up or one is cracked slightly?
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It is called Fatmat on Ebay, it is kinda like dynamat with a differant name. It is the 100 sq.ft roll to do every thing from the floor to the headliner and the doors.
I am currently in Daytona beach lookingm for apartments so downloading is not possible, but when I get home I will for sure get to downloading.
I am currently in Daytona beach lookingm for apartments so downloading is not possible, but when I get home I will for sure get to downloading.
I know what sounddeadner is ive been in the car audio game for a number of years and used many diff products. But you arent gonna gain 3 db from one layer much less 7-8 from 2 layers or whatever you said earlier.
I hit 145 DB at a DB drag compettition about 7 years ago in my old 94 Z28. I was running 2 Kicker solobaric 12's (the old circle ones) they had around 300 watts RMS each. I always kept my windows all the way up, folded the back seat down and used a bass mechanic cd that did a sweep of different bass notes. I also sprayed a can of that "great stuff" foam inside of the hatch which really kept it from rattling (Dont know how much weight it added).
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From: Pensacola, FL
I hit 145 DB at a DB drag compettition about 7 years ago in my old 94 Z28. I was running 2 Kicker solobaric 12's (the old circle ones) they had around 300 watts RMS each. I always kept my windows all the way up, folded the back seat down and used a bass mechanic cd that did a sweep of different bass notes. I also sprayed a can of that "great stuff" foam inside of the hatch which really kept it from rattling (Dont know how much weight it added).
with a camaro it will play the loudest with only one of the windows just barely cracked like 1/2" to an inch. i had 2 12" Fosgate T1's running off of a Power 1000 and i hit like 146 i think. it was a sealed box and i ended up blowing it apart. it played the loudest at like 48Hz. now i got 1 12" JL Audio W6 in a custom made vented box. i dont know anyone else who has one 
. i have it running off of a fosgate 25 to life punch 150. the box is tuned kinda low @ 29Hz. but it still hits really hard. i could blow the sub pretty easy considering how underrated the amp is.
. i have it running off of a fosgate 25 to life punch 150. the box is tuned kinda low @ 29Hz. but it still hits really hard. i could blow the sub pretty easy considering how underrated the amp is. Thread Starter
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Stroked383z was the box that you blew apart made of fiberglass, wood, or MDF board. The reason I would like to know is that I built my with a MDF bottom witha fiberglass top. With me in the 130's I don't need the expense of me building a nother box.
MDF 3/4". The box came apart at the seams. It blew the top off it. it pulled out the nails, and stretched the carpet. just reinforce the inside of the box with lil corner brackets, and screw the top down with wood screws and you should be ok
So long as the box was built right, it won't blow apart easily.
A couple things.
1.) WE do not hear in a linear form.
2.) Sound pressure is measured in dB. 3dB is a doubling of output power. It takes either a doubling of cone area or a double in power to acheive a 3dB gain. To gain another 3dB, you would have to double what you already doubled. So 10dB takes ALOT of power or cone are increase to acheive this. Or an extremely efficently tuned enclosure that usually are 1 note jugs.
3.) No dynamat or similar substance is going to net you 3dB in your car unless you hit some magical node frequency.
4.) Ported is much more efficient then sealed, but takes up more room and needs more airspace.
5.) Look into poly-fill if you haven't added it yet. It won't make that big of a difference, but it can help a little.
Here's some old info I typed up a couple years ago. It's in this thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-stereo-electronics/271152-quick-electronic-theory-ya.html
A couple things.
1.) WE do not hear in a linear form.
2.) Sound pressure is measured in dB. 3dB is a doubling of output power. It takes either a doubling of cone area or a double in power to acheive a 3dB gain. To gain another 3dB, you would have to double what you already doubled. So 10dB takes ALOT of power or cone are increase to acheive this. Or an extremely efficently tuned enclosure that usually are 1 note jugs.
3.) No dynamat or similar substance is going to net you 3dB in your car unless you hit some magical node frequency.
4.) Ported is much more efficient then sealed, but takes up more room and needs more airspace.
5.) Look into poly-fill if you haven't added it yet. It won't make that big of a difference, but it can help a little.
Here's some old info I typed up a couple years ago. It's in this thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-stereo-electronics/271152-quick-electronic-theory-ya.html
I promised some SPL stuff. This is off the top of my head. I'll have to search for the article for EXACT #'s
Pioneer did a study in what was once their new testing facility on the affect of distortion and SPL to the human ear. The results were interesting. The reason for this is because measurements are linear, straight line, our ears hear in a non-linear fashion.
SPL is usually measure in dB's. Deci-Bell's. It's a measurement of the Sound Pressure Level. It usually expressed in #'s like this 121dB. Now the absolute #'s are really arbitrary. A persons experience will say what is louder. What follows is mostly true for Subs. Mids and highs are different.
Now dB's do correspond or relate to power. For a 3dB increase you need either a doubling of power or a doubling in cone'age area.
(I.e. To get 3 dB increase you would need to go from 1 12" 500 watts to either 2 12" 500 watts total or 1 12" 1000watts total.) or (2 15" 1000watts. Needs 4 15" 1000watts or 2 15" 2000watts.) 3 dB would seem to be twice as loud right???
Actually no. When Pioneer and others tested this, they found that the average person need ~10dB in order to perceive sound as being "twice as loud" to get a 10 dB increase takes a lot of power and lots of speakers. The least amount of increase for a person to notice a change is about 1 dB. Average amount to hear a change is 3dB.
i.e. System with 1 12" sub 100watts. 10 dB increase, you would need 10-11 12" speakers or ~1100 watts of power. For every 3 dB double what was before. 1-2, 2-4, 4-8, 8-16. 100-200W, 200-400W, 400-800W, 800-1100W.
Let me 1st say that distortion is the #1 killer of speakers. It causes the speaker to move in irregular motions and warps the cone and puts the driver out of alignment.
For distortion they fed test music with distortion embedded in it. starting at 0.5%. By 1-1.5% most listeners noticed the distortion coming from the tweeters. By 2%-6% most listeners noticed it coming from the midrange speakers. By 6%-9% most listeners noticed it coming from the Midbass drivers.
And from 10% (very few people heard it) to 20% distortion is when most listeners heard it coming from the subs. The ears may be the best test equipment you own but have limitations.
Pioneer did a study in what was once their new testing facility on the affect of distortion and SPL to the human ear. The results were interesting. The reason for this is because measurements are linear, straight line, our ears hear in a non-linear fashion.
SPL is usually measure in dB's. Deci-Bell's. It's a measurement of the Sound Pressure Level. It usually expressed in #'s like this 121dB. Now the absolute #'s are really arbitrary. A persons experience will say what is louder. What follows is mostly true for Subs. Mids and highs are different.
Now dB's do correspond or relate to power. For a 3dB increase you need either a doubling of power or a doubling in cone'age area.
(I.e. To get 3 dB increase you would need to go from 1 12" 500 watts to either 2 12" 500 watts total or 1 12" 1000watts total.) or (2 15" 1000watts. Needs 4 15" 1000watts or 2 15" 2000watts.) 3 dB would seem to be twice as loud right???
Actually no. When Pioneer and others tested this, they found that the average person need ~10dB in order to perceive sound as being "twice as loud" to get a 10 dB increase takes a lot of power and lots of speakers. The least amount of increase for a person to notice a change is about 1 dB. Average amount to hear a change is 3dB.
i.e. System with 1 12" sub 100watts. 10 dB increase, you would need 10-11 12" speakers or ~1100 watts of power. For every 3 dB double what was before. 1-2, 2-4, 4-8, 8-16. 100-200W, 200-400W, 400-800W, 800-1100W.
Let me 1st say that distortion is the #1 killer of speakers. It causes the speaker to move in irregular motions and warps the cone and puts the driver out of alignment.
For distortion they fed test music with distortion embedded in it. starting at 0.5%. By 1-1.5% most listeners noticed the distortion coming from the tweeters. By 2%-6% most listeners noticed it coming from the midrange speakers. By 6%-9% most listeners noticed it coming from the Midbass drivers.
And from 10% (very few people heard it) to 20% distortion is when most listeners heard it coming from the subs. The ears may be the best test equipment you own but have limitations.