4L60E is leaking again
#1
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4L60E is leaking again
I had recently dropped my truck. My rear seal was leaking because of the driveshaft going further into the tranny, so the exposed part of the shaft that was rough is now inside rubbing the seal and has worn it out. I replaced the seal and polished the shaft but, it has started to leak again.
I'm thinking I should replace the bushing as well.
Has anyone replaced the rear bushing in a 4L60E?
I'm looking for a bushing removal tool, with no luck.
Can anyone provide a link or shop that provides them?
Would taking the tailshaft off be easier?
Any and all help would be much appreciated.
Thanks
I'm thinking I should replace the bushing as well.
Has anyone replaced the rear bushing in a 4L60E?
I'm looking for a bushing removal tool, with no luck.
Can anyone provide a link or shop that provides them?
Would taking the tailshaft off be easier?
Any and all help would be much appreciated.
Thanks
#2
You have to take the tail housing off to change the bushing. There is no other way.
I remove the bushing with a small chisel or medium screw driver to collapse it.
Then to install the new one I use a thick washer and a bushing driver handle (anything round would work). The bushing has to go in straight, I hold it close to eye level to be sure it's going in right. Test fit it on the yoke, if it's tight turn it to make some shiney spots. File them with a small fine round file.
The seal below is Vamac, thats a Dupont trade name for the rubber material. I wipe the surfaces clean with brake cleaner and put some red or blue loctite on the OD of the seal, then drive it in. Grease the bushing and seal, and put the tail back on the trans.
Take a micrometer or caliper to be sure the driveshaft yoke is not worn. I find they usually wear to an hourglass shape. If it's worn or rough replace it.
Heres the bushing.
Seal, Triple Lip Vamac design.
O-Ring.
Thats $5.83 worth of quality parts. Not sure if theres a minimum order amount.
I remove the bushing with a small chisel or medium screw driver to collapse it.
Then to install the new one I use a thick washer and a bushing driver handle (anything round would work). The bushing has to go in straight, I hold it close to eye level to be sure it's going in right. Test fit it on the yoke, if it's tight turn it to make some shiney spots. File them with a small fine round file.
The seal below is Vamac, thats a Dupont trade name for the rubber material. I wipe the surfaces clean with brake cleaner and put some red or blue loctite on the OD of the seal, then drive it in. Grease the bushing and seal, and put the tail back on the trans.
Take a micrometer or caliper to be sure the driveshaft yoke is not worn. I find they usually wear to an hourglass shape. If it's worn or rough replace it.
Heres the bushing.
Seal, Triple Lip Vamac design.
O-Ring.
Thats $5.83 worth of quality parts. Not sure if theres a minimum order amount.
#3
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Thread Starter
Thanks for the info.
I thought there was a bushing removal tool available instead of removing the tail shaft.
Do you know of one?
How much fluid will I loose when removing the tailshaft?
You feel the loctite is necessary? I have not used loctite for this application before.
Thanks again, for the info and links. I'll be placing my order this week.
I thought there was a bushing removal tool available instead of removing the tail shaft.
Do you know of one?
How much fluid will I loose when removing the tailshaft?
You feel the loctite is necessary? I have not used loctite for this application before.
Thanks again, for the info and links. I'll be placing my order this week.
#4
I'm pretty sure there is no tool to remove the bushing with the tail housing on the transmission.
There are bushing drivers for removing it and installing it with the tail off, but it makes the job more expensive if you're doing it one time.
IIRC you should loose less than a quart.
Loctite is not necessary. Either dry or Loctite, I've known people to use silicone which I think is a bad idea.
There are bushing drivers for removing it and installing it with the tail off, but it makes the job more expensive if you're doing it one time.
IIRC you should loose less than a quart.
Loctite is not necessary. Either dry or Loctite, I've known people to use silicone which I think is a bad idea.
#5
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Being that this is a truck application make sure that the fluid is not coming out of the back of the yoke. In this application there is a steel piece that is pressed on the output shaft that might be your issue here. It seals the yoke to the output haft because truck normally have a vented yoke. Yours might have come loose or the o'ring inside of it might be hard as a rock. I would remove the tail housing and take a look before ordering parts. Hope this helps. Vince
#6
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Thanks Jays, I appreciate the info.
Vince,
Do you have or now of where I could get a schematic of what you are talking about? That would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the info
Vince,
Do you have or now of where I could get a schematic of what you are talking about? That would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the info
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#8
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Thread Starter
Thanks Jay, I appreciate the quick response and picture.
It sucks if thats the problem, seeing my tranny is only 2 yrs old.
Do you know if they sell a rebuild kit for this application? I'm more for doing preventative maintanence than having to chase it down later. Especially since I know what the problem is or at least the area that the problem is in.
Thanks again man, I appreciate it.
It sucks if thats the problem, seeing my tranny is only 2 yrs old.
Do you know if they sell a rebuild kit for this application? I'm more for doing preventative maintanence than having to chase it down later. Especially since I know what the problem is or at least the area that the problem is in.
Thanks again man, I appreciate it.