dropped72ss

iTrader: (3)

Im swapping a t56 into my 72 chevelle and need to know what you guys are running as far as pedal assemblies??? My car is an auto so i need the pedal and master setup? What's the easiest to swap/cost effective? Thanks Kevin

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I just order some reproduction Brake/Clutch pedals. Then on the Clutch pedal, I cut the tab off, mod it up and welded it in place.
Tip: Used a vise grip to hold the tab in place and just adjusted it to get the correct 1" travel before welding. There is also post in the FAQ thread on the pedal setup (I think it is from a S&P web site).




I also welded a tab for a travel stop


BC

kevinciaran

bczee, I did basically just did the same thing and I just got the clutch bled today for the first time. The only difference is that I drilled the hole for the rod a bit lower. Just wondering how has your setup held up over time? any issues with the master cylinder?

I am thinking the pedal feels a bit strange without the springs in a factory setup that make the pedal feel linear... how is it to drive?


Also, what does your travel stop have on the end of it? rubber cap or something?

kevinciaran

oh and I got the repro pedal set at Original Parts group: http://www.opgi.com/

living in OC is great.. can drive right over to Seal Beach and get anything for the Chevelle!

dropped72ss

iTrader: (3)

What did u use for a master cylinder/size and how did u mount it?

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Yeah. I guess I could have play around a bit more on the ratio by moving the placement around. It is a bit heavy but quick at the location I have. Yeah.. No spring.. but you get used to it.

The travel stop is just a Hood stop/adjuster with the rubber cap on it.. seem to workout well... !

I used the oem F-Body clutch Master for a 4th Gen. Used the ATS/S&P adapter plate that I made from the template in the FAQ, was not hard, I used 1/4", but if did again, I'd use 5/16".

It has been working well since late 05'. no problem at all.

Tip: to bleed the Slave, I drilled a hold in the trans tunnel that lined up with the slave bleed valve. Then from the inside, I just use a 1/4" ratch/socket/extention and with a pan under. I step on the pedal and bleed the slave. With the Socket cover the valve. the break fuild will not go anywhere and just drip into the pan below.. Worked out well. The just put a rubber plug in the hole and pull the carpet back (or cut/drill a hold in the carpet).

71ANTICARB

iTrader: (23)

I used a fourth gen f-body setup. Definitely not the easiest but I like the way they turned out. Search kst8engineer in the member list he went over it in his build.

dropped72ss

iTrader: (3)

What FAQ is the adapter plate dimension under? I can't seem to find it thanks. Btw I purchase ls7 clutch setup w a speed bleeder kit.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

You can find the template here in this FAQ / Sticky !...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ro-basics.html

kevinciaran

I like the idea of using the factory Z28 pedal set...my engine and trans came with all of that, but it looked really complicated to adapt it since I wanted to keep my brakes the way they were.
I am sure theres an easy way, I believe kst8engineer used the F body brake MC and booster so it might have been easier for him to just start from scratch. I might revisit the idea later if I don't like the travel and feel.

Regarding thickness of the clutch MC bracket, I used 1/8 steel plate, and welded a spacer that bolts the plate to the firewall below the MC to keep the plate from flexing. It seems to do the trick. The pic show the square tube spacer (kinda botched the weld a bit haha)

Jim_PA

iTrader: (9)

I tried to retrofit my factory clutch pedal. Granted, it's a truck and set up a little differently, but I can't seem to get the perfectly straight throw required so you don't quickly kill the MC (I'm on my second MC already...) Might be more doable if I'd remove the whole pedal assembly and make it up on the bench, but I think I'll end up with something like this that has provisions built in for the MC, so I know it will push straight.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-340-1290/

Wilwood makes various assemblies with different mounting positions.

I went with the wilwood 5/8" MC.

dropped72ss

iTrader: (3)

Nice thanks for the great info guys I think I'm going to look into a wilwood kit?

chuckd71

iTrader: (23)

Did you ever get your trans running?
Would anyone who has or can make the bracket want to make another one (I'd pay of course)? I might be getting a t-56 on Thursday so need to start planning.

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

I bought mine from Street & Performance I think it was around $80.00 kinda pricey for a $5.00 piece of metal with a bend and a couple of holes in it, but it fit and worked perfectly. I know there are a few other outlets that sell them as well.

occhevelle

I've got the same issues of figuring out how to do this. I called the guys at t56kit.com and was told all I need to buy is the GM LS1 clutch assembly (PN 12570277), the adapter bracket, and a heim joint adapter along with the stock clutch pedal. Does this sound right or is there anything else I need?

Aceshigh

I'm getting my clutch pedal from The Parts Place in Elburn IL for $89 because they're local to me.
Doesn't require mods they claim.

They repop and design alot of their own parts and sell them to other parts vendors.