1985 Monte Carlo SS 6.2l (ls3) / 4l80e swap
#162
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It looks like you are using the stock push in style transmission cooler lines for the 4l80e. Do you happen to have the part number for those two lines? I am looking to mod the factory set as well. Also, are there any clamps that hold them to the engine? By the way, nice progress. The car is coming along great.
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It looks like you are using the stock push in style transmission cooler lines for the 4l80e. Do you happen to have the part number for those two lines? I am looking to mod the factory set as well. Also, are there any clamps that hold them to the engine? By the way, nice progress. The car is coming along great.
#166
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Well today we buttoned up the wiring, redid the trans cooler line off the radiator and tried to fire the car up. Well got it to crank but that is it. We started to source out the problem and seems like we are close to possibly figuring it out. Well, atleast the source of the issue. We traced to the coil packs not getting spark. The main coil pack is hot with the test light when the key is on. The individual coils plug connectors, not so much. Two of the pins out of the four were hot when the key was turned on and cranking. So we double checked the plugs and hooked up a tester and the plugs weren't getting spark when car was cranking.
So it seems that the spark stops after the main coil pack connection on the driver side. We did not bother with passenger side coil pack due to time.
Any thoughts? Buddy of mine sent a wiring diagram so I guess we will look at that bowl of spaghetti and see where to go from there.
So it seems that the spark stops after the main coil pack connection on the driver side. We did not bother with passenger side coil pack due to time.
Any thoughts? Buddy of mine sent a wiring diagram so I guess we will look at that bowl of spaghetti and see where to go from there.
#167
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Well today we buttoned up the wiring, redid the trans cooler line off the radiator and tried to fire the car up. Well got it to crank but that is it. We started to source out the problem and seems like we are close to possibly figuring it out. Well, atleast the source of the issue. We traced to the coil packs not getting spark. The main coil pack is hot with the test light when the key is on. The individual coils plug connectors, not so much. Two of the pins out of the four were hot when the key was turned on and cranking. So we double checked the plugs and hooked up a tester and the plugs weren't getting spark when car was cranking.
So it seems that the spark stops after the main coil pack connection on the driver side. We did not bother with passenger side coil pack due to time.
Any thoughts? Buddy of mine sent a wiring diagram so I guess we will look at that bowl of spaghetti and see where to go from there.
So it seems that the spark stops after the main coil pack connection on the driver side. We did not bother with passenger side coil pack due to time.
Any thoughts? Buddy of mine sent a wiring diagram so I guess we will look at that bowl of spaghetti and see where to go from there.
#168
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Harness was modded by current performance. Vats turned off. My harness grounds aren't in the greatest mounting spots so I'm going to try new spots to get better grounds
#169
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Well went ahead and moved my harness grounds to spots without gaskets and still nothing.....I did get a scanner hooked up and my CEL was reading a p2138 (throttle position code). Well now I am concerned with the fact I'm getting no spark from Tue individual coil connectors down to plugs and now this.....Buddy's uncle did same swap in a vette (85miketpi) and he said according to my pictures I sent him my wires are mixed up....what else is new. This company is really testing my patience. This, the fact my o2 sensor are not right and they can't tell me which I need AND they didn't extend the MAP sensor ......I'm at a loss with these guys right now.
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I've already spent probably over 20 man hours alone on this harness between me, my buddy and my friends uncle modding it to work since the $$ I spent to have it done wasn't enough, I guess.....So I am in this one til I find a solution. Problem has to be found, this company has been doing good for a while and I am just unsure why mine has been a PITA to deal with. Dead lines are not great to set as I have found out with the previous two builds but this one kills me due to really really wanting it down in Ocean City for cruise week and now it seems like thats not happening for sure. Who knows, maybe by weeks end we find the solution and fix it ......but still can not figure why its getting no spark.
#173
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I'll use this post to be seen not read, but fixed the few issues that I was having. We ended up switching two wires on the pedal to get the TPS code deleted, but the car still wouldnt turn over. We than checked to see if it was getting fuel, and the fuel pressure was great, so that was eliminated from the problem. Than we swapped the crank position sensor and it fired for about 1 second and cut off. Checked the scanner and it threw about 6 codes. Including in the codes was a cam position sensor issue. We found out that the cam sensor wasnt fully seated and tried again and the car FIRED! We ended up running it about 5 times every time it sounded more healthy and broken in good.
So currently we have these two codes still: p0113 and p0340
Anyways heres some videos.....
So tomorrow we plan to mount the ECM, Fuse box and the TCM. Once we do that, we will hopefully get all the ''temporary'' wiring soldered for good and clean up the engine bay for good! Got two weeks to get this thing on the road, time needs to SLOWWW down!
So currently we have these two codes still: p0113 and p0340
Anyways heres some videos.....
So tomorrow we plan to mount the ECM, Fuse box and the TCM. Once we do that, we will hopefully get all the ''temporary'' wiring soldered for good and clean up the engine bay for good! Got two weeks to get this thing on the road, time needs to SLOWWW down!
#175
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Nope. Trans is throwing a p0976 shift solenoid B circuit low code and will not shift out of first gear into anything. Rear bushings still need to be installed, been waiting for months, and an oil leak needs to be fixed. On top of that, the neutral safety rod needs to be modded to fit on the trans and I have to hide/loom some more wires.
Once all that is done, its going to Powerhaus to get the trans looked at. Thing just sitting on jacks catching dust at this point.
Once all that is done, its going to Powerhaus to get the trans looked at. Thing just sitting on jacks catching dust at this point.
#176
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Been a while since the last update.....been on a down point of the build since the trans has not been working WITH me and wants to work against me....
Got to the shop today and did some work on the rear wheel tubs since I had a feeling the new wheels and tires would not fit. So first thing was I took the new rears and mounted them up with the first spacer I pulled out and seems like the 7/16th spacers would work best for the application. Not too far out of the wells but not close to the frame. After this, we took measurements of where I needed to use the cut off wheel to cut the tub that resides above the notched frame. I cut that out and rounded off some corners with the BFH and mounted the wheels to sit on the ground. She fits with the new shoes but still needs a fender lip roll for extra precautions.
As for the rest of the car, still waiting on the rearend bushings to be installed and the oil leak to be fixed. Talked to the mechanic when I was there today and he said he will get the bushings installed, oil leak fixed, and mod the neutral safety rod to fit the trans by the end of next week. End of next week is set in stone since I plan to take the car up to Powerhaus Performance to check the trans out and do some other odds and end things.
So cross your fingers for me, I hope to have some sort of a update by next Friday.
Here is what she looks like with the tires.
And a video of it moving on its on...
Got to the shop today and did some work on the rear wheel tubs since I had a feeling the new wheels and tires would not fit. So first thing was I took the new rears and mounted them up with the first spacer I pulled out and seems like the 7/16th spacers would work best for the application. Not too far out of the wells but not close to the frame. After this, we took measurements of where I needed to use the cut off wheel to cut the tub that resides above the notched frame. I cut that out and rounded off some corners with the BFH and mounted the wheels to sit on the ground. She fits with the new shoes but still needs a fender lip roll for extra precautions.
As for the rest of the car, still waiting on the rearend bushings to be installed and the oil leak to be fixed. Talked to the mechanic when I was there today and he said he will get the bushings installed, oil leak fixed, and mod the neutral safety rod to fit the trans by the end of next week. End of next week is set in stone since I plan to take the car up to Powerhaus Performance to check the trans out and do some other odds and end things.
So cross your fingers for me, I hope to have some sort of a update by next Friday.
Here is what she looks like with the tires.
And a video of it moving on its on...
#177
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Been a while since the last update.....been on a down point of the build since the trans has not been working WITH me and wants to work against me....
Got to the shop today and did some work on the rear wheel tubs since I had a feeling the new wheels and tires would not fit. So first thing was I took the new rears and mounted them up with the first spacer I pulled out and seems like the 7/16th spacers would work best for the application. Not too far out of the wells but not close to the frame. After this, we took measurements of where I needed to use the cut off wheel to cut the tub that resides above the notched frame. I cut that out and rounded off some corners with the BFH and mounted the wheels to sit on the ground. She fits with the new shoes but still needs a fender lip roll for extra precautions.
As for the rest of the car, still waiting on the rearend bushings to be installed and the oil leak to be fixed. Talked to the mechanic when I was there today and he said he will get the bushings installed, oil leak fixed, and mod the neutral safety rod to fit the trans by the end of next week. End of next week is set in stone since I plan to take the car up to Powerhaus Performance to check the trans out and do some other odds and end things.
So cross your fingers for me, I hope to have some sort of a update by next Friday.
Here is what she looks like with the tires.
And a video of it moving on its on...
Got to the shop today and did some work on the rear wheel tubs since I had a feeling the new wheels and tires would not fit. So first thing was I took the new rears and mounted them up with the first spacer I pulled out and seems like the 7/16th spacers would work best for the application. Not too far out of the wells but not close to the frame. After this, we took measurements of where I needed to use the cut off wheel to cut the tub that resides above the notched frame. I cut that out and rounded off some corners with the BFH and mounted the wheels to sit on the ground. She fits with the new shoes but still needs a fender lip roll for extra precautions.
As for the rest of the car, still waiting on the rearend bushings to be installed and the oil leak to be fixed. Talked to the mechanic when I was there today and he said he will get the bushings installed, oil leak fixed, and mod the neutral safety rod to fit the trans by the end of next week. End of next week is set in stone since I plan to take the car up to Powerhaus Performance to check the trans out and do some other odds and end things.
So cross your fingers for me, I hope to have some sort of a update by next Friday.
Here is what she looks like with the tires.
And a video of it moving on its on...
#178
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Well, had a buddy call a buddy to tow my car up to Powerhaus Performance to check out the trans issue and turns out with my luck I'm double screwed! Called the wiring harness place and had the tuner talk to him about the issues and he said to disconnect the main trans plug and see if the trans goes into reverse and surely it did not. So that told us tha the trans, internally, is bad somewhere. with the main connector plugged in, it read the same and still no reverse. Thing is, with his tuning laptop the trans was reading a error type message and I am just confused.
So now, I have a electrical and a mechanical problem with the transmission. The trans is shot and the wiring to the trans seems to be not working either.
I am not sure if it matters but I have two things I am confused on if maybe this has any reason or no reason why the trans is not working. But I have the rod that attaches to the top of the steering shaft near the firewall, that bolted down to the detent of the old 200r4.....That is not on the car currently. So now you can run through all the gears park to 1 with or without key on. Second this is, I have the PARK/NEUTRAL wire grounded, but I think I might have grounded it wrong. From what I remembered, the wiring people said to wire it directly to the cars Original neutral saftey switch and ground it to the switch. THerefore bypassing the NSS on the trans itself.
Any thoughts on those two options?
So in short, the car is at the shop waiting for my decision whether to put a new trans in, run a seperate trans controller on top of the TCM/ECM I have or try and sort through the harness and figure out the lack of life going to the transmission. All in all, a lot of money that I do not have but I need the best case route of which to go down so I am not wasting my time and the shops time. Just annoys me that the harness was paid for to work with the trans I have and not only is the trans mechanically wrong, I have some wiring issues that are not resolved....
So now, I have a electrical and a mechanical problem with the transmission. The trans is shot and the wiring to the trans seems to be not working either.
I am not sure if it matters but I have two things I am confused on if maybe this has any reason or no reason why the trans is not working. But I have the rod that attaches to the top of the steering shaft near the firewall, that bolted down to the detent of the old 200r4.....That is not on the car currently. So now you can run through all the gears park to 1 with or without key on. Second this is, I have the PARK/NEUTRAL wire grounded, but I think I might have grounded it wrong. From what I remembered, the wiring people said to wire it directly to the cars Original neutral saftey switch and ground it to the switch. THerefore bypassing the NSS on the trans itself.
Any thoughts on those two options?
So in short, the car is at the shop waiting for my decision whether to put a new trans in, run a seperate trans controller on top of the TCM/ECM I have or try and sort through the harness and figure out the lack of life going to the transmission. All in all, a lot of money that I do not have but I need the best case route of which to go down so I am not wasting my time and the shops time. Just annoys me that the harness was paid for to work with the trans I have and not only is the trans mechanically wrong, I have some wiring issues that are not resolved....
#179
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Justin,
Sounds like you are frustrated and not getting good information.
Sent you a PM with my number.
I might be able to help diagnose the issue.
You will need a code scanner that shows live data but there are a couple of tests you can do to figure out the issue. Hint: You need to see if Vehicle speed is showing up on the CAN Bus.
Also need to know what model year the ECM and the TCM are.
Regards,
Sounds like you are frustrated and not getting good information.
Sent you a PM with my number.
I might be able to help diagnose the issue.
You will need a code scanner that shows live data but there are a couple of tests you can do to figure out the issue. Hint: You need to see if Vehicle speed is showing up on the CAN Bus.
Also need to know what model year the ECM and the TCM are.
Regards,
Last edited by Docked Wage; 07-19-2014 at 03:29 PM.
#180
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So now, I have a electrical and a mechanical problem with the transmission. The trans is shot and the wiring to the trans seems to be not working either.
...
So in short, the car is at the shop waiting for my decision whether to put a new trans in, run a seperate trans controller on top of the TCM/ECM I have or try and sort through the harness and figure out the lack of life going to the transmission. All in all, a lot of money that I do not have but I need the best case route of which to go down so I am not wasting my time and the shops time. Just annoys me that the harness was paid for to work with the trans I have and not only is the trans mechanically wrong, I have some wiring issues that are not resolved....
...
So in short, the car is at the shop waiting for my decision whether to put a new trans in, run a seperate trans controller on top of the TCM/ECM I have or try and sort through the harness and figure out the lack of life going to the transmission. All in all, a lot of money that I do not have but I need the best case route of which to go down so I am not wasting my time and the shops time. Just annoys me that the harness was paid for to work with the trans I have and not only is the trans mechanically wrong, I have some wiring issues that are not resolved....
You've gotten it this far, & it's a gorgeous, sexy BEAST. I'll bet dollars to donuts you'll get past this speed bump & be driving it this summer before the weather gets cold again...