98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

I have solid mounts on and I have some bolts I cannot get to and I'm guessing this is the easiest route instead of dropping the k member and doing a balancing act with my *** on the ground. The engine will not lean back to give you room to even see the bolts. I can't even get enough room to get the cooler lines off. So I'm hoping that someone has some pics so that I don't end up with 20 damn holes.

About how much time does it take to take out the dash and get the insulation out? I've got the console out and it just looks like a giant bitch. I see that its going to have to be cut to get around the pedal and steering column. Are there any tips for the dash removal?

NHRAFORMULA00

iTrader: (2)

Dash inop is a big pain in the ***.I would drop the engine and tranny before pulling the dash.But thats just me.If you do you will need a front end alighment.

slow67

iTrader: (2)

you wouldnt need an alignment.

y2k_ta

iTrader: (80)

Oh, dash removal is a nightmare. +1 for dropping/pulling the engine & trans before removing the dash. If you went the dash removal route, you still have all the HVAC equipment & ducting that will more than likely be in the way. But then again that would give you the opportunity to do some gutting & lightening behind the dash.

NHRAFORMULA00

iTrader: (2)

you dont need an alighment when droping the front sub frame? Then how do you get it back in speck? Some of the bolt holes are slotted.

slow67

iTrader: (2)

There are alignment pins that get it back in the same place.

Gen414

iTrader: (38)

Hmmm, maybe I am the odd one, but dash removal is not that big of a deal???? Had it out in about 1 1/2 hours is all. I just did this about a month or so ago on my '99...

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

Do you have pics of the holes you made?

I had to stop on the removal because my bulb blew on my light. I got the dash unbolted, but I can't figure out where to go from there as far as all of the **** that is connected like the gauge cluster and HVAC

outkast6991

iTrader: (34)

why don't you just loosen the motor mounts from the k member and let it sag down. when i did mine i loosened all 4 bolts on each side but left them all in. this was with Spohn solids

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

I'm not really sure it would work given what I can see now. Another reason is that I can't get to the motor mounts on the driver's side due to the downpipe that runs there.

outkast6991

iTrader: (34)

i didn't think it would be enough either but it worked. the front bolts got backed all the way out to the end of the threads. with a turbo that might be tough

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

I forgot to mention that the thin plastic piece that covers the top of the dash shattered into about 10 pieces. You gotta love that southern heat

ryarbrough

iTrader: (18)

I had the same problem with spohn solid mounts... I couldn't get the trans in to save my life... I proceeded to beat the hell out of the tunnel around the back of the block to give myself some space... Now it goes in and out without a problem

It seems like the people that design these mounts forget that the stock rubber, or even aftermarket poly mounts, have some slop in them that allow the engine to sit down where it's supposed to... I'd have to say that my solid mounts put the engine at least 3/8'' higher than stock (which was a tight fit anyway).

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

If I had it out I would be able to beat the tunnel, but it's still in. I'm hoping to get this thing out tomorrow before I go to work.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

I just thought about that again. You would have to loosen the k member bolts to have anything move. Unbolting the motormount bolts would only allow you to raise it and that is not what I need, unless it tilts. But there isn't much room for it to tilt before it hits the firewall.

DanZ28

iTrader: (5)

If your looking for a an excellent write up on getting the dash out, here is the best one around https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...-pictures.html

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

Thank you for that. I'll take another look at it before I give it another shot tomorrow.

ryarbrough

iTrader: (18)

Sorry I didn't get my point across... What I was trying to say was drop the whole cradle to get it out this time, and then beat the hell out of the tunnel.. Sounds like you're already pretty deep into the dash removal though... Its not too bad, but I hope not to have to pull the dash again soon.

SMOKY

iTrader: (4)

Id remove the solid mounts before removing the dash. 16 bolts was always easier for me. Or do the reach around the head like on old school small blocks to get to the top bolts.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

I got what your saying now, but another limiting factor is I'm doing this on jackstands so the beating would take forever. I guess depending on where the holes end up being will dictate whether I have to remove the dash or just the console.