Charles Cyrus

These are a few pices of my car. It runs
60ft..1.58
1/8...7.07@97mph
1/4...11.14@120mph
This is All Motor. The car has a ford 8.8, spool with 3.73s on 28x11.5x15 ET streets. I have QA1s all around, front set at 4, rear on 10!. The rear stock springs have been cut. BMR adjustable torque arm and adjustable race LCA, relocator bracket. And the car does have a Wolfe Swaybar. Car has a th350 with a 3800 stall. Please help!

gator's 99TA

iTrader: (2)

i cut 1.53 60' and dont come close to squating that much. i have BMR lowering springs and stock shocks. you try an airbag in the RR? is the car squating equaly or rolling over?

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

have you tried stock rear springs?

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Not a suspension expert, but I would think by cutting the springs it would make them weaker resulting in more squat. Also, by cutting the springs it will lower the car. If the car is squatting uneven, put an airbag in the passenger side spring. If not, then maybe an anti-roll bar. I think it might be the springs though because Ive read you want a stiffer spring in the back.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Squatting may be a sign of wrong suspension geometry
or it may be a sign of effective weight transfer onto the
rear springs. Have to figure out which.

You want the car to roll back onto the rear. What you
don't want, is for the rear to try and lift on its own
toward the body. Torque arm and maybe LCA relocation
brackets are what set that up.

A high center of gravity helps weight transfer. Lowering
the car will take this away as well as messing with your
rear suspension geometry, to the worse.

Squintz Palladoris

iTrader: (1)

Buy some lowering springs Chuck!

Have you ever seen my car squat?

Brad

Charles Cyrus

Thanks for the quick response guys. The car is squating equally and I do have a Wolfe swaybar ( I'm old, I forgot). I love low stance, but I think I would like going faster better. Will put stock springs back on this weekend, will keep you posted.

Squintz Palladoris

iTrader: (1)

Keep it slammed Charles!

Mike K.

I have those same springs now but was thinking about going back to stock, got bilstien HD's too out back. Do you like those rear springs? Do they work good with the slicks as far as fitment etc? I'd be happy with a 1.53 60 for sure.

12secSS

iTrader: (30)

How is your anti-roll bar adjusted, also at what point are your LCAs on your RLBs? What is the pinion angle set to? You pretty much have a similar setup as us, but our lifts the back end ... or throws the rear hard into the ground (this is what you want).

Video

gator's 99TA

iTrader: (2)

NICE light as well jenebell!

WJ SOM SS

iTrader: (11)

Yes, VERY good light.... WJ

critter

iTrader: (9)

You need to have the rear of the LCAs closer to the ground than the front if you want to get any lift out of them. Putting reloc brackets on usually does the trick, but then you have the car lowered, which negates them.

BLK02WS6

iTrader: (2)

Instead of cutting the rear springs, replace them with some lowering springs. If you got the stock springs too hot when you cut them, you may have taken the strength out of them. Then put your LCA's in the bottom hole (you do have the ones with two holes, right? If not, you need them). That will move the instant center back, lift the rear of the car off of the rearend at launch, and plant the tires much better. It makes a big difference. Attached are a before (#1) and after (#2) of my car. The result is much better and more consistent 60' times that are not so dependent on perfect track conditions.

J 98ta

iTrader: (3)

Charles,

Keep us posted. I am in a similar boat as you. I REALLY like the low look, but it is hurting at the track. Bad geometry as stated above. I have coil overs on all 4 , and am going to try to set the ride height 1/2" taller to see what happens next weekend. Currently I have BMR lca brackets in bottom hole, but the lca barely points uphill at standstill. I think this is where our problem lies.

I ran 1.60 60~ once this weekend, but mostly ~1.64 or worse. This really hurts when trying to bracket race....

I will report back next week with my findings.

Jennibella,

Real nice light if it was real. Some tracks, the tree will not go red in a bye-run. At least the one I was at this weekend did not. After launch, I was thinking that had to be red..... turned out to be -.020 on timeslip.


'J 98 t/a

11.82 @ 113.95 w/ 1.66
best 60 - 1.60 at 1/8th mile, best mph 115.3
Iron block 369ci 8.9:1 n/a
Yank ss3800 3.23 3650 raceweight
http://j.cz28.com
jman812@hotmail.com

Jenibella

Thanks guys, but if you look at the video it was a real reaction time. I was racing a high 8-second nostalgic dragster in time trials and got the holeshot. Here in California we do not have a no red light policy on bye runs, so I have no idea what you are talking about?

J 98ta

iTrader: (3)

I went out this weekend. I raised the height about 3/4" all around. Seemed to help, but maybe I still have things to work out. Attached are 2 pics from yesterday. Looks like it is rolling over a tad to the pass side. I can either turn up the spring on that side, or maybe pre-load the rear sway bar. Combination of both ? Anybody have ideas here ? I have the stock sway bar in the rear (front is removed).

Jennibella: I completely missed the video link.... I thought the word was describing the slo-mo below it. Looks like the tire slamms down hard. So your r/t was .00_ ?


'J
jman812@hotmail.com

V6 Bird

iTrader: (15)

What kind of brackets do you have...Chances are they are BMR's and installed wrong. The brackets I make change the instant center the correct way and when installed correctly hit the tires hard into the pavement and slightly lift the body off the rear aiding in planting the tires and moving the car in a more forward motion. Similar to what old school traction bars do on a leaf spring setup...Dont get my wrong my car squats still but it also carries the wheels the x-mas tree. I run the Wolfe bar, stock torque Arm and leave off the t-brake for 1.3 60's.

Mike

rockcamaro97

Charles, whats your pinion angle?

Matt

Race Car Driver

The obvious observation is for you to tighten-up on the front struts to reduce the amount of travel. Start at full tight, and gradually back off on them until you get what you need.