T78 + 4L80e + e85 + stock cooling system and AC round 2 **dyno vid pg 3**
12-13-2012, 10:20 PM
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T78 + 4L80e + e85 + stock cooling system and AC round 2 **dyno vid pg 3** I started my build thread about 2 years ago, during which the build changed directions several times - partially due to my indecisiveness, but also because some of the parts I purchased ended up not "working out" and I had to change things up. So as to not confuse anyone with things that no longer are part of my build, I am starting a new thread. The old one is still out there if that mess interests you.
Without getting into the nitty details of a build that lacked direction, the car started out as 2002 Z28 with a T56 transmission and your typical bolt ons. I decided to ditch the T56 and swap in a 4L80e. I felt a 4L80e could take more abuse and the car would probably be quicker than if I'd left the T56 in it. I was also able to fund the 4L80e swap by selling a low mileage T56, so it made sense to me.
We have e85 semi available around here, so I thought running it would help keep the stock short block alive as long as possible.
I also did not want to give up many amenities, especially air conditioning, so the turbo setup had to account for that. I ended up having Skinnies and MaxxMitchell fabricate my turbo plumbing.
The way they designed it keeps the A/C, alternator in the stock location, factory fans, radiator, condenser, and power steering lines. The turbo is placed in the battery's location, with a gravity oil drain to the passenger side of my oil pan.
The rest of the build consists of:
Engine
Stock LS1 short block with ARP head studs
Stock LS1 heads with PRC dual springs and LS9 gaskets
LS6 cam
Factory LS6 intake manifold, ported stock throttle body
Katech high volume oil pump
Stock Fbody exhaust manifolds, facing rearward
Fuel
Dual Walbro GSS340 fuel pumps
Stock fuel lines
Holley fuel rails
80lb/hr injectors
Aeromotive A1000 FPR
Transmission
Built 1993 4L80e, using Jake's Performance full rebuild kit
Circle D multi disk converter (I think it was ~3400 RPM)
Stock shifter
Turbo
Turbonetics TC78
JGS 44mm wastegate and 50mm blowoff valve
OBX intercooler and plumbing
-4an feed and -10an drain
2.25" plumbing on the merge, 3" downpipe
SLP Loudmouth I exhaust with Borla XR1 muffler
Suspension
BMR "turbo" K member
Bilstein/SLP shocks
Strano lowering springs
Founder's Performance adjustable rear LCA's and panhard
Deleted front swaybar
I'll need to get subframe connectors on the car before I drive it much too
Misc
AEM Truboost II boost gauge/controller
Innovate wideband gauge/sensor
tons and tons of little odds and ends that add up $$$ over the course of the build
I have the drive train back in the car, but still have quite a bit left to do. Most of the little odds and ends associated with pulling the engine, still need to mount my A4 shifter and pedals, do the wiring for that swap, wire all the aftermarket gauges, wire fuel pump, rear suspension adjusted, full alignment, etc. There's a cruise I'm hoping to attend at the end of March, so I need to get to work and finish it up and allow some time for "remediation" for things that don't work right. I hope I can do it. The car will have been down for 2 1/4 years at that point.
My goal is a reliable and fun street car...go to cruise nights/shows, out on the town, etc. Which is why all the amenities were so important to me. It gets hot here in the summer and I like my AC. I hope the first time I drive it, all the memories of the hassle of the build will fade away. Since I'm running the stock short block and I want to be able to enjoy the car for a couple years without having to mess with another engine swap, reliability is a big concern to me so my power goals will probably be 550-600 RWHP. I'm hoping this thread will serve as motivation for me to finish the build and "hold me feet to the fire" if you will.
Here's the merge plumbing - rear facing manifolds, crosses under the transmission
Air filter in the bumper - may be a little bit of pain to clean but I shouldn't have to do it often
My car, 2.5 years ago, when it wasn't covered in dust. I have deep dish C5's on it now.
Without getting into the nitty details of a build that lacked direction, the car started out as 2002 Z28 with a T56 transmission and your typical bolt ons. I decided to ditch the T56 and swap in a 4L80e. I felt a 4L80e could take more abuse and the car would probably be quicker than if I'd left the T56 in it. I was also able to fund the 4L80e swap by selling a low mileage T56, so it made sense to me.
We have e85 semi available around here, so I thought running it would help keep the stock short block alive as long as possible.
I also did not want to give up many amenities, especially air conditioning, so the turbo setup had to account for that. I ended up having Skinnies and MaxxMitchell fabricate my turbo plumbing.
The way they designed it keeps the A/C, alternator in the stock location, factory fans, radiator, condenser, and power steering lines. The turbo is placed in the battery's location, with a gravity oil drain to the passenger side of my oil pan.
The rest of the build consists of:
Engine
Stock LS1 short block with ARP head studs
Stock LS1 heads with PRC dual springs and LS9 gaskets
LS6 cam
Factory LS6 intake manifold, ported stock throttle body
Katech high volume oil pump
Stock Fbody exhaust manifolds, facing rearward
Fuel
Dual Walbro GSS340 fuel pumps
Stock fuel lines
Holley fuel rails
80lb/hr injectors
Aeromotive A1000 FPR
Transmission
Built 1993 4L80e, using Jake's Performance full rebuild kit
Circle D multi disk converter (I think it was ~3400 RPM)
Stock shifter
Turbo
Turbonetics TC78
JGS 44mm wastegate and 50mm blowoff valve
OBX intercooler and plumbing
-4an feed and -10an drain
2.25" plumbing on the merge, 3" downpipe
SLP Loudmouth I exhaust with Borla XR1 muffler
Suspension
BMR "turbo" K member
Bilstein/SLP shocks
Strano lowering springs
Founder's Performance adjustable rear LCA's and panhard
Deleted front swaybar
I'll need to get subframe connectors on the car before I drive it much too
Misc
AEM Truboost II boost gauge/controller
Innovate wideband gauge/sensor
tons and tons of little odds and ends that add up $$$ over the course of the build
I have the drive train back in the car, but still have quite a bit left to do. Most of the little odds and ends associated with pulling the engine, still need to mount my A4 shifter and pedals, do the wiring for that swap, wire all the aftermarket gauges, wire fuel pump, rear suspension adjusted, full alignment, etc. There's a cruise I'm hoping to attend at the end of March, so I need to get to work and finish it up and allow some time for "remediation" for things that don't work right. I hope I can do it. The car will have been down for 2 1/4 years at that point.
My goal is a reliable and fun street car...go to cruise nights/shows, out on the town, etc. Which is why all the amenities were so important to me. It gets hot here in the summer and I like my AC. I hope the first time I drive it, all the memories of the hassle of the build will fade away. Since I'm running the stock short block and I want to be able to enjoy the car for a couple years without having to mess with another engine swap, reliability is a big concern to me so my power goals will probably be 550-600 RWHP. I'm hoping this thread will serve as motivation for me to finish the build and "hold me feet to the fire" if you will.
Here's the merge plumbing - rear facing manifolds, crosses under the transmission
Air filter in the bumper - may be a little bit of pain to clean but I shouldn't have to do it often
My car, 2.5 years ago, when it wasn't covered in dust. I have deep dish C5's on it now.
Last edited by evo462; 05-15-2013 at 07:57 AM.
12-14-2012, 12:20 AM
#4
Love it! See thats what I don't understand... whyis it so many people are able to build there on kits that keep all the amenities in there place and runs great yet no sponser can seem to come up with one. We have some great sponsers and all but nobody seems to pick up on the damand of a kit such as this and actually follow through with it for a price that isnt outragous. Anyways, great build!!! I will be looking over it when I build mine.
12-14-2012, 10:06 AM
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Thought I'd pull some relevant pics out of the old thread...
Painted my LS6 intake manifold with the same red that's on my car
Engine tore down for LS6 cam, LS2 timing chain, oil pump, and head stud install
Engine cleaned up and put back together
Tapped oil pan
New wheels and tires...got bored with the Z06 rims
1993 4L80e w/70k miles when picked up
After it was rebuilt
Circle D converter
Cutting access panel for fuel pump replacement
Wiring up gauges
They power on at least....that's as far as I've gotten with it
Intercooler mounted
Drivetrain being reinstalled (about a year ago...sigh)
Painted my LS6 intake manifold with the same red that's on my car
Engine tore down for LS6 cam, LS2 timing chain, oil pump, and head stud install
Engine cleaned up and put back together
Tapped oil pan
New wheels and tires...got bored with the Z06 rims
1993 4L80e w/70k miles when picked up
After it was rebuilt
Circle D converter
Cutting access panel for fuel pump replacement
Wiring up gauges
They power on at least....that's as far as I've gotten with it
Intercooler mounted
Drivetrain being reinstalled (about a year ago...sigh)
12-14-2012, 01:38 PM
#6
Love it! See thats what I don't understand... whyis it so many people are able to build there on kits that keep all the amenities in there place and runs great yet no sponser can seem to come up with one. We have some great sponsers and all but nobody seems to pick up on the damand of a kit such as this and actually follow through with it for a price that isnt outragous. Anyways, great build!!! I will be looking over it when I build mine.
This kit should have no issues supporting 850+ rwhp with a precision 7675, we've proved that on other setups with same size piping and kit design.
12-14-2012, 06:14 PM
#7
Maxxmitchell and I have built several setups that "can't be done" so others should be able to do it. We did a tc78 jy 5.3 grand national with stock manifolds, stock accessories, a/c, p/s, stock alternator location, everything. Did the hidden turbo kit on my ltd, and have done a/c kits for mustangs without using the c6 manifold, but keeping stock manifolds. Also figured a way to use stock manifolds for a 3rd gen firebird kit. So much is doable, just have to think outside the box and figure out how to do it.
This kit should have no issues supporting 850+ rwhp with a precision 7675, we've proved that on other setups with same size piping and kit design.
This kit should have no issues supporting 850+ rwhp with a precision 7675, we've proved that on other setups with same size piping and kit design.
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12-14-2012, 09:27 PM
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Maxxmitchell and I have built several setups that "can't be done" so others should be able to do it. We did a tc78 jy 5.3 grand national with stock manifolds, stock accessories, a/c, p/s, stock alternator location, everything. Did the hidden turbo kit on my ltd, and have done a/c kits for mustangs without using the c6 manifold, but keeping stock manifolds. Also figured a way to use stock manifolds for a 3rd gen firebird kit. So much is doable, just have to think outside the box and figure out how to do it.
This kit should have no issues supporting 850+ rwhp with a precision 7675, we've proved that on other setups with same size piping and kit design.
This kit should have no issues supporting 850+ rwhp with a precision 7675, we've proved that on other setups with same size piping and kit design.
good luck
02-16-2013, 05:56 PM
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Well...finally made some progress - the last piece holding me up from putting the interior back together.
I've been procrastinating the shifter mount / trans tunnel blockoff plate for awhile now because I wasn't really quite sure how to go about it. There were a couple references to it in the Automatic Transmission forum that helped, but I basically just winged it.
1) I took my 6 speed shifter boot and traced it onto a piece of 16 gauge mild steel with a Sharpie, marked the holes for the screws, then cut it out with a jigsaw.
2) Then I used an empty 1 gallon paint can and tried to give it an arc similar to that of the transmission tunnel. The middle section is more flat than anything, it's the edges that really need a slight curve to them.
3) I drilled out the holes where they were marked by the shifter boot, but they were slightly off, I think because the sides of the shifter boot are on the curved part of the transmission tunnel and placing it against the flat sheet metal didn't translate right. So I had to redrill the holes larger to give more room for error.
4) got the plate screwed down, then mounted my shifter and bolted it down in the factory location near where the e-brake is located. Then I was able to see where I had to drill two additional holes for the front of the shifter to mount to, as well as where to use a hole saw to cut a place for the shifter cable to go through. I also plan to run my wideband O2 sensor cable for my gauge through the same hole, so I may have to get creative with the grommet.
Now I just need to wipe it down with some degreaser then rubbing alcohol, prime, and paint. I'm hoping to have the shifter installed and the rest of the interior together tomorrow. I pulled the entire center console out for the shifter, as well as some of the lower dash for the pedal swap, and removed the driver's seat to make access under the dash near the pedals easier. It's been this way for a looooong time so it'll be nice to at least have the interior done.
Still a good bit to do in the engine bay though, but I'm hoping to have it ready for the nice spring weather that I've missed the past two years.
I'll probably have 5 hours into this plate by the time it's all painted.
I've been procrastinating the shifter mount / trans tunnel blockoff plate for awhile now because I wasn't really quite sure how to go about it. There were a couple references to it in the Automatic Transmission forum that helped, but I basically just winged it.
1) I took my 6 speed shifter boot and traced it onto a piece of 16 gauge mild steel with a Sharpie, marked the holes for the screws, then cut it out with a jigsaw.
2) Then I used an empty 1 gallon paint can and tried to give it an arc similar to that of the transmission tunnel. The middle section is more flat than anything, it's the edges that really need a slight curve to them.
3) I drilled out the holes where they were marked by the shifter boot, but they were slightly off, I think because the sides of the shifter boot are on the curved part of the transmission tunnel and placing it against the flat sheet metal didn't translate right. So I had to redrill the holes larger to give more room for error.
4) got the plate screwed down, then mounted my shifter and bolted it down in the factory location near where the e-brake is located. Then I was able to see where I had to drill two additional holes for the front of the shifter to mount to, as well as where to use a hole saw to cut a place for the shifter cable to go through. I also plan to run my wideband O2 sensor cable for my gauge through the same hole, so I may have to get creative with the grommet.
Now I just need to wipe it down with some degreaser then rubbing alcohol, prime, and paint. I'm hoping to have the shifter installed and the rest of the interior together tomorrow. I pulled the entire center console out for the shifter, as well as some of the lower dash for the pedal swap, and removed the driver's seat to make access under the dash near the pedals easier. It's been this way for a looooong time so it'll be nice to at least have the interior done.
Still a good bit to do in the engine bay though, but I'm hoping to have it ready for the nice spring weather that I've missed the past two years.
I'll probably have 5 hours into this plate by the time it's all painted.
02-24-2013, 09:37 PM
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More baby steps today...
I got the PNP switch and shift lock solenoid sorted out today....well, at least the wires ran to their applicable connectors, still trying to hash out how exactly I need to tap into them.
Got my new non EGR exhaust manifolds installed, and hoping to do the pedal assembly tomorrow and have the rest of the interior back together.
I realized something happened to some of the pictures in the beginning posts, so I'll try to get those sorted out. Not quite as exhilarating an update as some threads, but I'm working on it every day so a bunch of small updates will equal a running car before long.
I have new Speed Inc fuel rails and an Aeromotive A1000 fuel pressure regulator on the way, and just ordered a bunch of fittings to connect them to my factory fuel lines so I'll be sure to detail that a bit in case it's helpful to someone with similar goals.
I got the PNP switch and shift lock solenoid sorted out today....well, at least the wires ran to their applicable connectors, still trying to hash out how exactly I need to tap into them.
Got my new non EGR exhaust manifolds installed, and hoping to do the pedal assembly tomorrow and have the rest of the interior back together.
I realized something happened to some of the pictures in the beginning posts, so I'll try to get those sorted out. Not quite as exhilarating an update as some threads, but I'm working on it every day so a bunch of small updates will equal a running car before long.
I have new Speed Inc fuel rails and an Aeromotive A1000 fuel pressure regulator on the way, and just ordered a bunch of fittings to connect them to my factory fuel lines so I'll be sure to detail that a bit in case it's helpful to someone with similar goals.
03-02-2013, 08:58 PM
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More baby steps...
I had to order new fuel rails, originally tried to get the Speed Inc billet rails but they were out of stock with a backorder of a couple months, so they offered the Holley rails instead. I was pleasantly surprised with the quality of the kit, came with all the AN fittings I needed, with the exception of a couple to connect to the factory lines, so it ended up saving me a good bit of money.
I found that the A1000 FPR was interfering with the front driver's intake manifold bolt, so I had to relocate it to the passenger side. So the feed will go in on the driver's side and return on the passenger. No big deal. They look good though.
Got my new TC78 w/1.15 exhaust housing out for some pics. Thanks Huron Speed!
And got my A4 pedals installed, aside from a super awkard position (even with the driver's seat removed), they were pretty easy to re-install. Super happy about that. The interior of the car has been a thorn in my side for awhile and I'm finally making progress. Need to clean up that mangled nest of wires under the dash though.
Tomorrow will be spent getting the rest of the interior together, then replacing the internal wiring harness on my 4L80e because I buggered up the plug on it.
I had to order new fuel rails, originally tried to get the Speed Inc billet rails but they were out of stock with a backorder of a couple months, so they offered the Holley rails instead. I was pleasantly surprised with the quality of the kit, came with all the AN fittings I needed, with the exception of a couple to connect to the factory lines, so it ended up saving me a good bit of money.
I found that the A1000 FPR was interfering with the front driver's intake manifold bolt, so I had to relocate it to the passenger side. So the feed will go in on the driver's side and return on the passenger. No big deal. They look good though.
Got my new TC78 w/1.15 exhaust housing out for some pics. Thanks Huron Speed!
And got my A4 pedals installed, aside from a super awkard position (even with the driver's seat removed), they were pretty easy to re-install. Super happy about that. The interior of the car has been a thorn in my side for awhile and I'm finally making progress. Need to clean up that mangled nest of wires under the dash though.
Tomorrow will be spent getting the rest of the interior together, then replacing the internal wiring harness on my 4L80e because I buggered up the plug on it.
