Beefing up the 10 bolt
#1
Beefing up the 10 bolt
I know it's frowned upon, but I'm thinking of beefing up the 10 bolt a little. I figure, a beefed up 10 bolt should be able to handle the power levels that I'm expecting from my car in the near future. I'll be putting a cam in my car this spring, sometime. So, I'll just be looking at ~350rwhp. I don't think there's any need to upgrade to a 12 bolt or 9" at that power level. So, I've been looking at all the ways to beef up the stock rear. I've already got a MAC rear girdle laying around that will be put on when I do a gear install. I think I'm going with either Motive 3.73's, or 4.10's, with their Master install kit, since I found a site with the gears, and kit for $235. Then, I'm going to go with some Moser axles. I just want to clarify which axles I need. Since I don't have TCS, I have a 3-channel carrier, correct? So, I'd need these axles? http://store.summitracing.com/partde...134+4294839047
I'm just wanting to make sure that I've got all the part numbers correct before I start ordering stuff.
I'm just wanting to make sure that I've got all the part numbers correct before I start ordering stuff.
#4
C clip eliminators have no effect on ABS.
They keep the axle and tire on the car if an axle does break.
This can prevent a lot of body damage. Or not, the smallest OD of the axle is inside by the differential.
I think c-clip eliminators on stock axles would be fine.
Or good name aftermarket axles with c clips.
They keep the axle and tire on the car if an axle does break.
This can prevent a lot of body damage. Or not, the smallest OD of the axle is inside by the differential.
I think c-clip eliminators on stock axles would be fine.
Or good name aftermarket axles with c clips.
#5
C clip eliminators have no effect on ABS.
They keep the axle and tire on the car if an axle does break.
This can prevent a lot of body damage. Or not, the smallest OD of the axle is inside by the differential.
I think c-clip eliminators on stock axles would be fine.
Or good name aftermarket axles with c clips.
They keep the axle and tire on the car if an axle does break.
This can prevent a lot of body damage. Or not, the smallest OD of the axle is inside by the differential.
I think c-clip eliminators on stock axles would be fine.
Or good name aftermarket axles with c clips.
#6
Whatever you want to do.
You're not likely going to break an axle, even a stock one.
If you like spending money and want to be extra extra cautious, get the moser axles and c clip eliminators.
It'll only be more wasted when you start breaking ring and pinions.
With the mods in your sig? It's going to be a long time before you break a stock axle.
You're not likely going to break an axle, even a stock one.
If you like spending money and want to be extra extra cautious, get the moser axles and c clip eliminators.
It'll only be more wasted when you start breaking ring and pinions.
With the mods in your sig? It's going to be a long time before you break a stock axle.
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#9
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I broke an axle right into a thousand pieces. I wouldn't put to much money into the stock 10 Bolt either. You are better off saving for a better setup. I have broken mine once and my friend has rebuilt his at least 4 times. They just are not able to handle the stresses. Also we are at over a mile high elevation and rearly see DA's under 7000ft. Point is I broke the stock axle without N2O so it was only about 300 actual RWHP. The corrected is 383RWHP. Save your money.......
#11
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I know it's frowned upon, but I'm thinking of beefing up the 10 bolt a little. I figure, a beefed up 10 bolt should be able to handle the power levels that I'm expecting from my car in the near future. I'll be putting a cam in my car this spring, sometime. So, I'll just be looking at ~350rwhp. I don't think there's any need to upgrade to a 12 bolt or 9" at that power level. So, I've been looking at all the ways to beef up the stock rear. I've already got a MAC rear girdle laying around that will be put on when I do a gear install. I think I'm going with either Motive 3.73's, or 4.10's, with their Master install kit, since I found a site with the gears, and kit for $235. Then, I'm going to go with some Moser axles. I just want to clarify which axles I need. Since I don't have TCS, I have a 3-channel carrier, correct? So, I'd need these axles? http://store.summitracing.com/partde...134+4294839047
I'm just wanting to make sure that I've got all the part numbers correct before I start ordering stuff.
I'm just wanting to make sure that I've got all the part numbers correct before I start ordering stuff.
#13
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Not saying I recommend it, BTW. Going for a 9 inch myself.
#14
http://www.geocities.com/duragizer444/install.html
Not saying I recommend it, BTW. Going for a 9 inch myself.
Not saying I recommend it, BTW. Going for a 9 inch myself.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...osi-noise.html
Weird how theres no explaination what happened to the stengthened up 10 bolt with those retarded preload bars on it, it started making noise, then he's installing a 9 inch.
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like this
http://www.lpwracing.com/p_axletubebrace.asp i got the cover only so-far.axel tube brace,might not work but it looks good !!!!!!!!!!
#17
I'll pay someone to put bushings inside the rod ends of those preload bars, bushings that reduce the size of the bolt down to 1/4"
I bet the 1/4" bolts won't break.
If those preload bars do anything, they bend the housing, they don't prevent it. I could see if the housing to body mount was 18" from the end they might help. But on an f -body the forward forces are at the LCA mounts, which are a few inches from the end.
I bet the 1/4" bolts won't break.
If those preload bars do anything, they bend the housing, they don't prevent it. I could see if the housing to body mount was 18" from the end they might help. But on an f -body the forward forces are at the LCA mounts, which are a few inches from the end.
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Other than swapping some 3.73s in, I'm not touching the 10-bolt. Once it blows up then I have a good reason to get a 12-bolt and of course while that's happening I may as well get a built tranny, then I need to get a 383 stroker built to give the tranny and rear end enough power.