Dragula

iTrader: (5)

My car smokes from the rear axle after I drive at high speeds. It a Strange 12 Bolt with the stock breather on the top of the pumpkin.

Is it possible that oil is being tossed at the breather by the diff and boiling on the exhaust?

Would a hose extension strapped up higher prevent this?

2000slpss

iTrader: (27)

where is the smoke coming from? i just had to replace an axle seal. mine smoked fro mthe passenger side after high speed runs and turns out my axle seal was leaking and the heat on the brakes was makingthe gear lube that leaked smoke.

01350ss

iTrader: (18)

do yourself a favor. inspect that housing VERY closely!! My strange 12 bolt that is only months old is comming out of my car to go back to strange. My welds that wrap around the axle tubes to the center section are leaking oil ONLY WHEN THE CAR IS IN MOTION. I found this out on the lift at wok. Less than 3k miles and the rear is due for it's third set of gears. This time it's going back.

Dragula

iTrader: (5)

I've been checking for oil on the rims and there isn't any so far. Did you have oil on the wheels?

It seems to be coming from the top of the pumpkin and slowly working it's way down the side. That's what's making me think it's the vent.

Does anyone know if the exhaust is hot enough to boil axle oil?

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

I would feel about after a run and see if you find
any special hot spots (esp. the outer bearings,
the pinion bearing nose). This is what would
concern me most, mechanical heat should not
be there and means wear or worse.

chicane

* Is it possible ?? Yes. Check for any other leaks on/around the housing, especially the axle seals.

** Would a hose extention help this ?? Well it could, as long as you dont have any other leaks and/or problems. On my higher end builds, I normally plumb a -6AN and about 16 - 18" of hose to a small 3/8" K&N filter. This allows the housing to differentiate the pressure under hard use and between its hot and cold cycles.

*** Is it hot enough ?? Yep, but you would have way more problems than what you are stating right now. Ya know, the diff could be over full...... and/or you might have temperature related problems as well that are adding to the problem. Check everything..... temperature and oil level..... cold and hot.

FYI.... and newly built differential will run somewhere in between 185 and 220*F with 90/140 or straight 140wt lubricants. This would be measured at the rear of the housing, on the cover, with an infared temperature 'gun'. Normal (post break in) will/should run in between 160 and 180*F.

Dragula

iTrader: (5)

chicane - Thanks, I appreciate the advice. Would a contact pyrometer work O.K. I have the aluminum cover if that makes a difference. I know it doesn't conduct heat as well as steel.

chicane

What kind of probe are we talking about and.... what is doing the conversion (meaning what kind of meter) ??

The reason I ask, is that I am into instrumentation engineering and there are somethings to be taken in account for, when using certain type/diameter/voltage probes. (In lames man speak, that information would be good to know for any possible measurement offset).

Dragula

iTrader: (5)

I'm not sure. I don't have one with me to check in to it.

I did look under the car and there is a good amount of oil on the muffler and inlet pipe. There still isn't any on the wheels, that might indicate an axle seal.

chicane

Well, that definately sounds like the vent tube and not an axle seal.

Try this, with the car jacked up and level, pull the fill plug and see if its over full. At least thats a starting point.....

bernard shortt

iTrader: (1)

have fun fighting with JC at strange,,mine was toast after 80miles,,no seals at all in the carand they claim to have test dynoed it,,lol

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

I have seen some pretty low priced, optical pyrometers
recently; laser pointing etc. I think it might be the way
to go here.

I'd hit the wheel bearing area, as well as the pumpkin.

Another possibility is brake drag, the rotors shed heat
to the axle via the lug flange and if this is pushing a lot
of heat, might cook anything (seals, oil) nearby. Seen
plastic-cup brake pistons melted into the caliper on
one little POS I worked on, back when; can get toasty
if they keep on dragging. Might check the axle for any
resistance when cold, and hot, water in the brake fluid
might decide to boil and make for an unintended apply
(drag). Also an e-brake just a hair too tight could do it.
Do you smell brakes, or just sulfur?

WickEdSix98

iTrader: (4)

another problem I had with my old 10 bolt. I got the pinion nut too tight and after driving on the highway for a few miles, the oil on the outside of the housing was burning off. The pinion bearing had to be replaced because of it.