BrianC98Z28

iTrader: (11)

To those with this and the lower air lid already cut out how did you get it to stay? Ive seen where some cut 2 holes for it, but what if the lower air lid is already cut, how do you get it to stay up? Any pics would be cool too. Thanks

Brian

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

Not quite sure what the hell you're talking about.

What are you worried about holding up?

BrianC98Z28

iTrader: (11)

sorry, i meant the tubing, ya know what some people do? from the front grill to under the lid?like this http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...27_39_full.jpg

Full-Force

iTrader: (11)

Thats next on my list. Thats a killer setup right there.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

Wouldn't a Big Gulp or an FTRA be a better option?

royalcrown

iTrader: (1)

that is bad ***! someone post instructions on how to do this.

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

The big gulp is radical, you have to remove the hood latch and use pins, and do alot of cutting to the core support.

The FTRA/SSRA likes to get snagged on things and rip off!

J E T

iTrader: (5)

You guys should pm "SUX2BU". He sells a ram air plate made especially for that setup. I bought one already, but am waiting until spring to install it when I do my headers and exhaust.

Here's how the setup is: https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....5&postcount=22

chrs1313

iTrader: (24)

thinking about the dual 4in ram air too just not sure if it is going to be worth all the trouble, also if it is going to be any better than a widened FTRA (instead of around 1" make it 2") i know i might have to lose the a/c if i widen it but i was thinking of doing that anyways. Does anyone know where there is more pressure at the front of the car (where the dual 4in ram air goes) or where the ftra is. Which has a higher pressure zone. This would be the biggest factor??

BigDaddyBry

iTrader: (15)

Looks like you'll never run over a kitty again....because it'll get sucked into your vacuum first.

Lane

iTrader: (1)

It's alot of work... I had to remove the whole front-end practically when I did mine. I used 4" exhaust tubing, and a couple of mandrel 4" 45's. Drilled two holes with a 4" hole-saw on top of the radiator core-support - and tack welded a couple of 6"(or so) straight lengths of 4" - at an angle parrallel with the radiator.

The two 'holes' in the front grille area had to be widened to accept one end - each - of the two 45's 4" bends. I made a bracket for each that I bolted to the hood support brace(or whatever you want to call it) - and welded to the bends. Connected the two with dryer hose - put some mesh, gutter guard in front of the holes, and I had some serious 'ram' air.

I did a couple of other mods at the same time and couldn't really get solid numbers for what I picked up at the track with it. However, a buddy of mine that did it at the same time - and nothing else - picked up a tenth and a half and 2 MPH at the track. And he already had a pretty decent home-made ram air setup to begin with.

hourang

iTrader: (6)

yes i have the same, nice piece, cant wait to install it.

Phil8616

iTrader: (11)

Just get a Fast Toys Ram Air kit(FTRA), wont suck up anything, especially water, unless you go through deep puddles or heavy heavy rain (thats why there is a block off plate). Ive had mine for almost a year. Throw that on with a lid if you dont already have it, best mod(s) for the money.

ps...mine hasnt sucked up any kittys or been caught and ripped off

-Philip

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (70)

i just bought mine from SUX2BU also

tc3

iTrader: (2)

how much?

Phil8616

iTrader: (11)

I got mine from LMperformance for $164 w/ a block off plate, last summer....might be able to get it cheaper around here now

Edit: I just looked at LM Performance's website..they dont have it anymore

heres FastToys website(maker of FTRA) FTRA

J E T

iTrader: (5)

I wouldn't get FTRA or SSRA. The custom ram air plate is a third of that price. That's just my 2 cents.

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

So this is where all those PM's came from.
Just to give you guys a quick run down of my set up it consists of the ram air plate i made and about $25 of ducting and clamps from home depot (a piece of 4" dryer hose [one piece streches to eight feet or so, i just cut it in half], two 6" to 4" cone reducer ducts and foyur 4" band clamps).
You DO have to cut into your radiator support to clear the two 4" pipes. the plate is reversible front to back so you can run it with A/C or flip it if you no longer have A/C and don't wanna cut as much of your radiator support. i took out my bumper support and washer fluid resiovior.
The plate is screwed in under the lower air box and the cone reducers are screwed to the front bumper. I have installed a couple of these on Trans Ams and used the fog light holes. A local guy has a set up like this on his formula and just cut two holes behind his licence plate cover.
People ask how it does in the rain. Well since i used the dryer hose, it is not perfectly smooth and so the water can not be pulled up the walls of it (like the fast toys ram air). i daily drive my car and have driven it thru many tsunami like rain storms with no worries.
These style set ups give you HUGE gains like Lane above said. This ram air is what i attribute my crazy high 121.69 SI mph (fastest in the country). most other SI cars are in the 117-119 range at about the same weight.
I'ts a really simple set up you can build yourself if you know how to weld. you could even just use two 4" exhaust pipes welded to the radiator suppoort like Lane above and use dryer hose the rest of the way.
hope this helps guys.

gr8one99SS

iTrader: (4)

i also dod this and it worked out great. went from 8.3x-8.4x to 8.1x and a couple of x 8.0x in the 1/8. greadt mod , well worth the time. thanks for the idea sux2bu