cals400ex

iTrader: (27)

I have a set of 317 heads on that I bought used. I paid $400 for a valve job/blend plus ferrea valves and PAC 1518 springs, etc. Can the perforated water jackets be successfully welded? I essentially have 2 options.

1. Have the water jackets welded and new threads cut into every header bolt hole.

2. Buy another set of 317 heads, get another valve job, and have them swap over my valves/springs.

I know I can seal the threads on the bolts. It is just a damn hassle because I take my headers off too often...and then coolant drips out. I could place header studs and seal the threads. However, the threads in the head are pretty much crap and need redone anyways. I have a feeling option 1 will be cheaper. Suggestions?

wildcamaro

iTrader: (15)

Cheapest route would be to grab another set of 317s for like $100...option one sounds like it would cost more but you get to keep the valve job

cals400ex

iTrader: (27)

I have talked to two reputable shops and they both recommended trying to seal in some head studs. one shop recommended red RTV and the other recommended teflon tape. I am not thinking the teflon tape will work too well. I have used high temp thread sealer on them before and that seemed to work ok. I am not sure if there is something better to use or not??

G Engines

use pipe sealant with teflon.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=162305_0_0_

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Not sure if the threads are deep enough, but you could look into using a short set screw as a permanent plug and seal/screw it into the bottom of the hole. Then install the studs or bolts over the set screw. This would allow head removal without breaking the seal. You need to check the final thread engagement on the bolts though.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

I haven't played with LS heads yet. How exactly did you break through to water in many of the bolt holes?
Were bolts that were too long used once?

cals400ex

iTrader: (27)

I was using factory bolts, so I know that I didn't break through. I have a feeling the previous owner broke off header bolts. When they were repaired/drilled out, I have a feeling this is when the damage was done. Thats what I get for buying used heads...

cals400ex

iTrader: (27)

the threads are definitely not too deep. that is a pretty darn good idea though. i am going to try some high temp sealant on some arp header studs. i just want these to seal up!

sicksspeed

iTrader: (2)

If the threads are good enough for the studs to hold then why not. Otherwise thread repair then stud. I personally don't think that the teflon pipe sealant will take the heat but it is great stuff. But I have not tried that kind of thing. I think I would lean more to loctite red. Thread insert would be a timesert brand. That is a solid insert instead of a helicoil.

cals400ex

iTrader: (27)

I know permatex makes a high temp thread sealant. It doesn't seal like red locktite but I am wondering if it will hold up to the heat and coolant better.

cals400ex

iTrader: (27)

Well, it looks like they to make a high temp red loctite as well.

sicksspeed

iTrader: (2)

Yes the red is what gm wants on ex bolts if I remember corect. I am sure it will seal with good threads but if the threads are loose no guarantee.

sicksspeed

iTrader: (2)

How about this. Loctite® 5770 Thread Sealant High Temperature Coarse Threads Seals pipe fittings up to 277°C (530°F)

Typical applications: Ultra high temp applications such as steam pipes, up to 277°C . Need to check if good for anti freeze.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

I doubt if any kind of sealant or thread goop would be a long term fix for this.

Weld those heads or replace them.

cals400ex

iTrader: (27)

i don't know exactly how hot those header bolts get?? I assume if they are touching the coolant they won't get over 400 degrees F, but I could be wrong. Then again, not all of them leak coolant but a handful do.

G Engines

I have run into hundreds of times with all types of engines pipe sealant works every time. The studs are nice but not needed you can seal your stock bolts with it and torque them to 18 ftlbs.

BADD SS

iTrader: (4)

I repair these all the time. The 6.0's pop manifold bolts all the time, the shop tries to drill out, and their bit walks and hits a water jacket. I usually put the head in the mill, bore a 3/4" hole about 1.25" deep. Then I make a plug on my lathe, drill that and tap that and press the plug into the head, then weld the plug in. I charge $125 normally.

cals400ex

iTrader: (27)

Permatex suggested using their high temp thread sealant.

miker2

iTrader: (1)

i used barsleak-copper on one and it worked in minutes and stayed sealed.