7Enigma

Hi everyone,

I've been having cat-related issues for a long time now, but until recently I've been able to limp along without much problem. Now, however, my car has a hard time starting when it's cold outside (cold morning compared to 90F days), and I have to face facts that sitting on this problem can't go on any longer.

So I've decided to bite the bullet and while replacing the cats, finally get some long-tube headers for my car. The problem is I will be doing the install myself (with a buddy's lift) and want to make sure I'm not missing any parts or getting into trouble half-way through the process.

My cat-back exhaust is fine and so will be keeping that. Am I right to assume that all I need are long-tubes, and a catted Y-pipe kit? How much modification is normally required, or are these typically bolt-up without needing heavy modification or the ability to weld (which I do not have).

And finally if you could recommend a reasonably priced, set of long-tubes (preferably coated but not a deal breaker) and a catted Y I'd greatly appreciate it.

Thanks,

justin

2000 Trans Am, with both AIR and EGR intact (if that matters), I basically need something to bolt up to my aftermarket cat-back exhaust.

Bama99z

iTrader: (7)

Dont waste your money on coate headers. THEY WILL STILL RUST IN DUE TIME!!! Take my advise save up a little more money and buy stainless one's. JMO. I bought the non catted Y it all depends if you gotta have them for emissions or not.

Bama99z

iTrader: (7)

Oh I almost forgot, through the cheap *** gaskets that come with the new headers away. Go purchase new MLS gaskets if you dont want them to leak. I put new MLS goaskets on mine when I installed about 7 years ago tignhned them up and havent touched the since.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Did you fix the issue that killed your cats? They don't "just go bad".

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

whats the part number for the gaskets?

OP, now would be a good time to replace the engine and transmission mounts.

7Enigma

Pretty sure there was a recall on them if I remember correctly. Unfortunately my car was over the 10yr limit when they finally recalled.

But I did have a vacuum leak (hose with a crack) that I didn't catch right away that I'm sure had the computer dumping in a whole lot more fuel than needed to prevent running lean...

7Enigma

So here's the good thing. Since I'll be scrapping the cats and old Y-pipe my removal and install should be much easier than someone just doing the headers right? I can sawzall anything that doesn't come off easily, and not have to worry about seized bolts/etc. from the y to the cats. Because of this I was going to remove the absolute least required.

I'll have to look into the motor and trans mounts, though it will be more difficult since I'll be using a lift and not the more typical jackstands (ie the car will be high off the ground). Guess I can take it closer to the floor or something to allow for raising the motor/transmission....

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

I would go 1-7/8 on the headers, they will make more power and toqrue even on a stock motor and will let you grow more later on. ARH and Kooks are top notch but if you on a budget TSP makes a set also. I personally would skip the catted y pipe. The high flow cats wont pass a sniffer, they'll just cut down on the smell of fuel and a bit of rasp.

Imo for a y pipe setup the ARH is better, I've installed all 3 sets and th ARH goes in the easiest, not to mention they have the best merge on the y-pipe.

7Enigma

Thanks for the helpful reply. Definitely be going for the 1-7/8", thanks for the recommendation on the brands (Texas Speed and Performance seem to be amazing price for SS but as mentioned later not a huge deal). I NEED cats (live in PA so we have emissions). I thought the high flow's will be sufficient (specifically Texas Speed since I'm assuming the same brand should mate better to each other than different brands), if not what are my options (preferably already welded into a Y so I'm just bolting up parts)...

And I thought the ceramic coating was more to keep underhood temps down (not so much the resistance to rusting, which I'm not concerned about since this has always been my daily driver and I'm not expecting 30yrs out of the car)? As it stands now I'll probably just go uncoated (and not SS) for cost/practicality reasons.

Thansk again for answering all of my questions. I'm itchy to purchase but want to get everything situated before I pull the trigger.

Russ K

iTrader: (1)

A hard cold start has nothing to due with bad cats. Check your fuel pressure.

And you defiantly need high flow cats, as without cats the smell will get old real quick. And the smell only gets worse with a cam. As far as emissions without cats, any smog shop will be able to tell you have no cats just by the stink of your exhaust.

Russ Kemp

7Enigma

Are you sure Russ? My understanding was that with a clogged exhaust the backpressure would make the engine struggle to start. To add to this I throw the low cat efficiency code (clear and it comes back within 25-50miles), and when I get on it I get massive hesitation above 2k rpm that seems to get a little better by 3k but I think the computer's just messing with the timing or something.

Also I live in PA and so need cats that can pass a smog test. I said I guess I don't want hi flows because someone earlier mentioned they are not good enough for emissions. So what are my aftermarket options? Or do I just have to go OEM (which seems REALLY expensive)?

Russ K

iTrader: (1)

Seen lots of cars with restricted cats, at WOT the power drops right off and gets worse at higher RPM. But the car still started fine cold. And a cat efficiency code doesn't mean it's restricted as I've had many cars with cat codes that still had normal power.

Stock cats will only fit on shorty headers. Cars will pass a sniffer test with high flow cats & a mild camshaft.

Russ Kemp

KT2

my car did the same thing, I replaced them with the headers and y and pulled the intake and replaced the intake gaskets too.

it seemed like a good time to the gaskets and I had drove it on bad cats for a while so I did not want any issues with leakage.

7Enigma

So wait, there is no way to have longtubes and pass inspection with stock cam?

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

yes a catted y setup with header and a stock cam will pass emissions with a tune. however any relocation of the cats such as with longtubes is illegal so if they do a visual inspection and see the longtubes they can fail you automatically.

if they just do a code scan and sniff you'll be fine, plenty of people in PA run lt setups so I dont think the emissions will be much of an issue. if so you have to find that one shop and slip them a benjamin

Robert02

iTrader: (2)

I have 1 3/4 kooks and high flow cats with .600" lift cam and pass emissions here (NC) with no codes. ( headers r for sale going 416 build)

7Enigma

But not one of the kit Y's that come with cats? (as you mentioned in an earlier post). Basically since I'm going to be doing the install myself I need to make sure the parts I buy can be made to bolt up (obviously with a little work if needed). can anyone recommend a pre-made Y-pipe with cats that will fit the longtube headers?

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

Can't really beat the TSP Headers and Y for the price...

pewterformula

iTrader: (2)

I agree, I'm saving my pennies for the TSP SS headers and ORY.

7Enigma

I'm just trying to figure out if the TSP headers and TSP catted Y will pass inspection (and by that I mean the emissions test, the visual I can deal with finding a local place that will realize if I'm not contaminating the environment the location of the cats shouldn't matter if they're a couple inches farther back...)?