chrdij

iTrader: (1)

Well as I was driving down the road I start to here a rattle from the engine. Then the rattle turns into a clank! WTF So I take it to a local speed shop and they say it sounds like a rod!! They dropped the pan and saw metal shavings at the bottom ( not good). I wont know for sure till they tare it down on monday. Could I have thrown a rod just by cruzing? And will the car still run with a broken rod at all since I dorve it to the shop?

Well if this is the case my block might be damaged, so I might be looking into a good complete bottom end. Any good deals around on complete built bottom end stokers? Cheaper the better, still in school and have very limited $$$
Thanks for all your help, Chris

Mikey 97Z M6

iTrader: (37)

Sounds to me like you just spun a bearing. If you "threw" a rod, that generally means it exited the engine via the oil pan or side of the block. If the crank journal isn't torn up too badly just have the journals machined down and go with oversized bearings. That is, if the the rod isn't dis-colored from too much heat.

You probably started the spun bearing the last time you hit the bottle and it just got worse from normal driving.

I wouldn't suggest driving it anymore until the problem is fixed. Good luck....

Mike

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

Eagle 4" crank = ~$900
Eagle 4.125" rods = ~$650 (with really good ARP bolts)
3.905" bore/1.125" Compression height pistons = $700

That’s the major parts, and then there is the $500-$600 for machine work and probably another $750-$1000 for bearings, bolts, gaskets, etc....all the little things that will get forgotten until the last min.

chrdij

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all the info guys, hope to find out on monday if I go stroker or not. One more question, I found this bottom end 408 iron block from HP. Anyone ever use this block, looks like a good deal to me? How much more does this thing wiegh over the ls1 block? would an ls6 intake bolt right up?
Thanks for all your feedback!,
Chris

http://www.horsepowerengineering.com/GM/ls1engines.html

ktmrider

Chris is right except I think he means 6.125" rods, not 4.125". Also, I have heard decent things about HPE, too. You will gain close to 100 pounds with the iron block but have a much stronger overall engine if you spray big. Yes, all the LS1/LS6 stuff bolts right up to the 6.0L truck block. I have heard rumors about one bolt on the AC bracket that does not exist on the iron block but it is not needed ( redundant ).
Another suggestion, check out "www.keithcraftmotorsports.com" for some really good prices on short and long blocks or complete engine packages. I am getting an Eagle 4" stroker kit from them for around $2100 balanced. I know the Eagle stuff is questionable right now but at that price I can build another motor for what Lunati wants for their kit.

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

yep....my bad....I was thinking of the bore for a 427 (usually think of a 4" stroke and 6.125" rod going with a 4.125" bore).....thanks man

Another_User

Yes the intake will bolt back up. I thought you were on a budget!? If you need it fixed cheap I would get a bottom end, or low mileage pulled motor. Depends on your "budget".

MyLS1Hauls

iTrader: (2)

What rpm have you been shifting your motor at with the TREX?

PREDATOR-Z

Nice question LOL
Unfortunately he is shooting dry. If something is to blame, you know what the answer will be.

BTW 125 dry is like 100 wet. Not what I would call a Huge shot.

Chuck@

iTrader: (1)

Here's more pricing/details on some of the shortblock packages we offer...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=177441

Regards,
Chuck

MyLS1Hauls

iTrader: (2)

LOL...yeah i know!